While I've used a Surform to taper standard cork roadbed down to the plywood on which it sits, I actually prefer some #36 garnet paper, wrapped around a block of wood. Both methods remove material at about the same rate, but the Surform seems more likely to "grab" as it gets close to the plywood, ripping chunks out of the thinned cork. The sandpaper simply keeps going, making a nice smooth transition right down to the plywood.In the photo below, from the turnout just ahead of the locomotive closest to the camera, it's about 14" to transition from that turnout, on cork, to the turnout under the tender of the locomotive to the left, which is directly atop the plywood sub-roadbed....
...all of the transition takes place between the turnouts, none of it under any part of either turnout.
Another one here, centre-foreground, which does occur under the turnout, with the cork under both diverging tracks taken down at the same time and same slope....
...and some more...
Wayne
I sometimes use a Surform.
I also use a method I developed after getting a tabletop belt sander. I take aluminum duct tape - the stuff you peel off the protective layer and are left with a piece of foil that is sticky on one side - and apply it to the back of two paired-up pieces of cork.
Applying gentle downward pressure with the tape up/cork down, I lay it on the sander belt and start tapering. This allows for long, gentle tapers or shorter, sharper ramps, as needed. It pretty quick, too. The belt will be running away from you, so just let go if needed for safety's sake. Peel the foil tape off when done, being gentle where the taper gets thin.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
Rather than a Surform, I prefer a small box plane meant for quickie wood planing. It also works well for planing cork to bank curves. BTW, save the cork shavings. I use them for gravel, such as on road shoulders or driveways.
Genesee Terminal, freelanced HO in Upstate NY ...hosting Loon Bay Transit Authority, run through Amtrak and CSX Intermodal
CP/D&H, N scale, somewhere on the Canadian Shield
gmpullman I've used two methods, assuming you're coming off of 1/4" thick Midwest cork (HO?) 1. I have used elbow grease, a Stanley Surform rasp and frequent vacuuming.
I've used two methods, assuming you're coming off of 1/4" thick Midwest cork (HO?)
1. I have used elbow grease, a Stanley Surform rasp and frequent vacuuming.
Me too on the Surform, quick and easy to slope it down to meet 1/8" cork from Hobby Lobby. I save the MW cork dust for possible use for scenery purposes - for whatever that might be.
Jim
Holy brilliant tips Batman! I never would have thought about cutting the foam down. What a fantastic idea!
I use Homasote ramps made by Cascade Rail Supply. They work great!
Greg Shindledecker Modeling the =WM= Thomas Sub in the mid-70s
Generally I use 1/2 inch plywood or OSB on risers so I usually adjust the risers to the elevation needed for the track, which is mounted on cork. That takes place of ramping or feathering.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
I use cork roadbed to transition from the 3/16 mainline roadbed down to bare foam or homasote. My transition sections are usually 30-36" long. I use either a hand planer/scraper or my Bosch electric hand planer. Once I get the low end of the cork to the point it's startint to fragment, I use caulk to smooth the final transition.
Modeling an HO gauge freelance version of the Union Pacific Oregon Short Line and the Utah Railway around 1957 in a world where Pirates from the Great Salt Lake founded Ogden, UT.
- Photo album of layout construction -
I have used wooden shims purchased at your local hardware store. Something like 2 to 5$ a bundle depending on which ones you get. I can now shim something like a dozen doors/windows with the leftover shims.
Bear "It's all about having fun."
Awesome suggestions, thanks guys!
hon30critterThey cut the Homasote on either side of where they wanted the ramp to be and then shimmed the Homasote using cereal box cardboard so that it formed a smooth transition from the cork down to the flat part of the Homasote.
Thats kind of what I did, only it was a thicker cardboard, but much like cerial box, maybe cracker box, cardboard.
Mike
My You Tube
A couple of our club members came up with a different approach. The layout has 1/2" Homasote which is screwed but not glued to the plywood benchwork top. They cut the Homasote on either side of where they wanted the ramp to be and then shimmed the Homasote using cereal box cardboard so that it formed a smooth transition from the cork down to the flat part of the Homasote. They installed the shims in such a manner as to prevent a sudden change in grade where the cork ended. Using this method eliminated the need for any sanding.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
I use a cheap-o belt sander with a fine grit belt so I don't remove too much cork or Homasote at once.
Rob Spangler
I use layered 1/4 inch masking tape to create a ramp between the levels, like this:
Mark P.
Website: http://www.thecbandqinwyoming.comVideos: https://www.youtube.com/user/mabrunton
If you are on foam you can cut out the foam and just lower the cork into it.
Like so.
Here is another spot.
If you have any tile thinset or similar products, just sculpt your own.
Wood shims are good, just run a hunk of wood through the saw if you have one and make a custom one to fit.
Here I used a cement topping product for roadbed.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
https://tinyurl.com/y7626gee
2. I have glued long wood shims then sanded them to take off the high spots, especially at the crest. There are several styles of wood shims at the lumber yard. Some are only about 5 inches long. Those are probably too steep. I found some that are closer to eleven-inches long and of a very good grade of wood (basswood or very clear spruce perhaps).
https://tinyurl.com/y9yn8t6l
Good luck, Ed
I used the heavy, card stock type cardboard, and kind of "shimmed" my way down.
Seems to work out OK, no problem with a GP38 and a few cars.
Mike.
I see articles where modelers will not use roadbed on sidings. How do they feather the roadbed from the main down to the siding? Any tips?