Newberry-Columbia, SC-Adding signal lights

[RR_Mel]

I’ve used the Model Power signals too.  All of my original test signals are Model Power.  I’m an SP guy to the bone and they use single three color signal heads so I ended up made my own.  I bought an NJI single target signal and made mold of the base then using K&S brass tubing for the mast I made castings from Resin.

 

 

 

 

 

This is the 40¢ IR detector.

 

 

I mounted a four pin micro connector and three resistors for each signal on a 2.7” x 2” perf board.  It easily holds the connectors (14 4pin micro connectors and one Arduino 60 pin that plugs into the Arduino MEGA) and resistors (42 resistors, two rows of 21) for 14 signal heads for my 14 block main line.

 

 

 

Mel

 

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

 

[robert sylvester]

In my case inorder to use the swtch to change the colors I drill a hole on either side of the track, apply the switch at the edge of the layout with double sided tape then run each wire up through the hole and solder the wire to the tracks. Where I don't have a switch I simply cut the wire just the right distance to one side of the track and then snake the longer piece between the ties and solder it to the other side of the track, really basic; the ballast covers the wire.

My signals are by Model Power with light bulbs, require no resistors, and they are HO scale. I had some LED signals but to much trouble soldering the resistors underneath the table, again I keep it very simple.

Robert Sylvester

Newberry-Columbia, SC

[RR_Mel]

BigDaddy

 

 

RR_Mel

I’m in the process of installing simple Arduino IR detector modules for detection.

 

 

They look too big, to simply drill a hole between the ties.  Where/how are you installing these?

 

 

I have Atlas code 83 flex track on my layout where it can be seen and code 100 flex in hidden areas.  In the hidden areas I simply drill a ⅛” elongated hole (⅛” x ⅜”) in the plywood and glue an Arduino three pin female connector (with the wires attached) in the hole and plug the KY-032 module in it vertally.  I bend the two LEDs 90° so that the beam is across the track.  It works out perfect at just above coupler height, the IR beam is reflected off the train and trips the detector.

 

For my non hidden (Atlas code 83) track I use a 5/32” drill bit to hollow out an elongated hole between the ties.  I use black ballast so painting the inside of the holes black makes them almost invisible.  Because the beam is IR they aren’t seen but reflect of the bottom of the train.

 

My wife bought me a WORX Switchdriver battery drill a year ago Christmas and it works great for drilling the holes in the plywood. I use hex drill bits from Harbor Freight and so far I have only broken one bit even abusing them badly.

 

I bought some small metal 90° angle brackets from a local big box store and used double sided tape to attach the KY-032 module to the brackets then a single screw into plywood under my layout.  My layout base is ⅝” plywood with Midwest cork roadbed.  I wallowed out the bottom of the elongated holes so that the LEDs would slip slightly into the bottom of the holes for easy alignment.

 

The modules work perfect at up to 3” from the reflected surface.  Their specs say 30 to 45cm but I haven’t found that to be true, at least as far as train detection goes.

 

By using a pair pointed at each other (not reflected) they work as a beam break detector at 10’ pretty reliably.

 

I have four installed under my layout spaced at 32” through the ties and so far no problems other than tweaking the mounting bracket a bit for correct alignment.  I have eight more to go to complete my mainline.

 

Because they are so inexpensive I’m going to eventually install them at 16” spacing and parallel the outputs for each block, at 50 modules per the cost of one DCC detector the only difference is my time to install them and that isn’t a problem for me.  It’s still model railroading to me and I enjoy every minute working on my layout.

   

 

 

 

Mel

 

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

 

[BigDaddy]

RR_Mel

I’m in the process of installing simple Arduino IR detector modules for detection.

They look too big, to simply drill a hole between the ties.  Where/how are you installing these?

[RR_Mel]

I like simple!  Looks great Robert!

 

I built my first signal system back in the 70s using the simple Twin-T detectors for red and green indication.  That got me hooked on automation, super simple and worked great on two layouts.  In 1995 or so I decided to go with a controller and used Rob Paisley’s circuit, again that was a simple design easy to implement and worked very good . . . . then came DCC for me in 2005.

 

I tried several ideas based on Paisley circuits and finally gave up automation in DCC mode.  I have never liked the idea of putting resistors on truck axles to trigger detectors.  Never really liked the old Twin-T circuit for current detection either.  I piddled around with the current detection transformers for DCC and really didn’t like that at all.

 

Then early last year I decided to give it another go using Arduino technology.  I’m far from being a programmer but after a few weeks dinking around with an Arduino MEGA I came up with a simple controller and I’m in Hog Heaven.  It can be easily controlled with toggles or occupation detectors.  A single toggle for each block will control my Arduino Controller.  I chose optical detection.

 

I’m in the process of installing simple Arduino IR detector modules for detection.  The Arduino KY-032 IR sensor has three wires, ground or common, +5 volts and a switched ground output, best of all they only cost 40¢ each in bulk.

 

 

 

 

Mel

 

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

 

[mbinsewi]

Looks great Robert.  What few signals I have, I control the aspects with rotary switches, all manual like yours.

My layout is not big enough or complex enough to require an automated system.

Mike.

[robert sylvester]

Back when my dad and I built my first Lionel layout in the 1950's that was an exciting time for me. To watch those O scale F units pulling those aluminum coaches was a site to behold, to me they were massive and looked so real. I had hours of fun just watching them head down the tracks.

Then one day my dad walked it with a package after work and said, "Let's go to the train room". He handed me the pckage and I carefully opened it up and found four sets of signals. He showed me how to clip them on to the track and bingo they lit up as the trains ran. What a difference, they looked so cool, what else could you say.

When I switched to HO I began to think of a way to develope a signal system. Now I know there are all types of systems but to be honest I really didn't want to do all of that wiring and so forth. So, what could I do. Well, about twenty-five years ago I came up with an idea and have done it ever since.

For me the signals are an added deminsion that create another level of railroading. As I said the systems were complicated and I just want the impression of signals so why not just solder the two wires from the signals directly to the tracks.

and I could use the signals to designate power to the tracks at different sections, not neccessarily to control trains.

So each of my signals are soldered to a section of track and that signal lets me know of I have power to that block. If the signal fails then I know I have no power and I know where to go and fix it. Most of the time a wire may come loose or disconnects from the track.

I't actually a very simple system, no signal light, no power. Now many of the signals have a manual switch, so to add to the fun and I can throw the switch and pretend to control trains.

Here for example is a red signal letting the engineer know to stop.

Here is the same signal with the switch thrown to green allowing the train to proceed.

So I do have a somewhat working signal system, all be it manual, but that adds to the working model making it interesting.

For me it adds to the operation. It may not be prototypical and very rudimentary but it is just another way to make running trains interesting.

It adds to the fun of Model Railroading and running trains.

Thanks,

Robert Sylvester

Newberry-Columbia, SC.