wdcrvr dknelson I like this idea. Sounds like you would get more accurate 90 degree surfaces with a file clamped to a nice straight piece of lumber. And a lot cheaper than a micromark sander. Thanks a lot. wdcrvr
dknelson
I like this idea. Sounds like you would get more accurate 90 degree surfaces with a file clamped to a nice straight piece of lumber. And a lot cheaper than a micromark sander. Thanks a lot.
wdcrvr
I basically do the same thing with the hard rubber sanding block, but I clamp the work so it don't move, not the other way around. I make all kinds of jigs just to hold or glue things:
Take Care!
Frank
Doesn't MDC suggest the block and sandpaper method in their directions? Oops...Sorry, I was thinking of DPM kits.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
mbinsewi
Thanks for your reply. I wrote MDC but I meant DPM kits. That is a combination of watching football while writing emails. Also has to do with the age of the brain.
One or another of Jeff Wilson's structure books for Kalmbach shows a fairly large file held tightly against a piece of dimensional lumber, perhaps a 1x4 or 1x3, and the edge of the structure is rubbed against the file while being pressed against the file and pressed down into the wood. It has the virtue of simplicity.
Dave Nelson
I use a 3M hard rubber sanding block that fits in your hand. Any sheet sandpaper may be used in it. Just cut strips to size, Lift up the flap on one side, press down and built in nail points grip the paper, stretch paper to other end, lift up flap, insert paper, press down and your ready to sand. No need to do anything else......paper will not move. Been using one since the early seventies in My body shop days and still have it.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/3M-Rubber-Sanding-Block/1093773?cm_mmc=SCE_PLA-_-Paint-_-Sanding-_-1093773:3M&CAWELAID=&kpid=1093773&CAGPSPN=pla&store_code=2304&k_clickID=go_625682584_34615007470_111134769910_pla-258467105926_c_9021618&gclid=Cj0KCQiA68bhBRCKARIsABYUGicE0LkGU1WJAChqVJOtoD-IBYYw7nZPH--UG1xcrIiSJt2PHEr74nAaAmD1EALw_wcB
The black pad in the photo is what it looks like. I use air-file paper which is thicker than regular sand paper, it is already cut to the correct width just longer.....I just score and tear it in half. I have enough of the paper left for a lifetime....made by Mirka.
I used a 12" x12" piece of plywood, with a piece of sandpaper glued to it, using spray glue, I used a second piece of wood, as a fence or a guide, clamped to the sandpaper board, then made sure I had the wall section held tight to the guide.
Worked pretty good. There's videos out there put out by DPM (Woodland Scenics) buildings, that's where I seen it.
I don't remember if he used a fence or a guide, but I did, to keep things flat. The block with the sandpaper glued to it was the key part.
Mike.
EDIT: Yep Richard, thats what I was talking about. Your post beat me to it.
My You Tube
How about a block of wood with some fine (600 or more) sandpaper attached?
Just a thought.
Good luck,
Richard
Has anyone any tips on how to get straight, flat, 90 degree edges on the walls of MDC kits without investing in a micro mark sander or other such tool?
Thanks