I use one of the low budget Gras Tech models. It works great. I use quite a few pins, every couple of inches, so the ground is always close to the applicator. Silflor grass is my favorite.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
My swatter build works fine with plane white glue or wet paint. I can tell you from experence, not to get a finger between screen and ground.
I replaced tne Tpin with a stiff wire that was slipped in a plastic tube, all but stopped that unwanted spark
Bought a bottle of Spray Tac and it turns out there is no pick up tube on the sprayer, so getting it to come out was difficult. Tried 4mm WS grass and no grass stands up except on the t-pin itself. My flyswatter applicator sparks pretty good when I touch the t-pin but that's about it.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
gmpullmanSometimes I get too close and jump ten feet when I accidentally hit the pin.
Glad I'm not the only one that throws static grass up in the air.
I was thinking of putting liquid electrical tape on top the T-pin I use or just cutting off the T and soldering the point to the wire. Not sure why you would have to discharge it by touching the pin. In the old days of wool rugs, a door knob worked just fine.
My initial attempts were more matted grass than static grass. I need to tear that out and try again, got some better static grass.
gmpullman rrinker I suspect those converted fly zappers just don't have the static generating capacity of the 'real' ones. ...but plenty of zap to do the job. I bought three more zappers, at about $6/ea on closeout, just to keep on hand. IMG_8053 by Edmund, on Flickr I wouldn't add any salt to your glue mix. The spark from mine will jump if I hold the screen within a half-inch of my ground pin. Sometimes I get too close and jump ten feet when I accidentally hit the pin. Grass flying all over. IMG_7107 by Edmund, on Flickr This is just a preliminary cover. I'll go back and add more weeds and brush later. IMG_8058_fix by Edmund, on Flickr Does the spark jump to the screen when you quickly touch it? Batteries? A good grounding pin? Good Luck, Ed
rrinker I suspect those converted fly zappers just don't have the static generating capacity of the 'real' ones.
...but plenty of zap to do the job. I bought three more zappers, at about $6/ea on closeout, just to keep on hand.
IMG_8053 by Edmund, on Flickr
I wouldn't add any salt to your glue mix. The spark from mine will jump if I hold the screen within a half-inch of my ground pin. Sometimes I get too close and jump ten feet when I accidentally hit the pin. Grass flying all over.
IMG_7107 by Edmund, on Flickr
This is just a preliminary cover. I'll go back and add more weeds and brush later.
IMG_8058_fix by Edmund, on Flickr
Does the spark jump to the screen when you quickly touch it? Batteries? A good grounding pin?
Good Luck, Ed
It makes a spark when I touch them together. I also removed a resistor inside to make it more powerfull, so if I turn it off, I have to "discharge" it by touching them together.
Harrison
Homeschooler living In upstate NY a.k.a Northern NY.
Modeling the D&H in 1978.
Route of the famous "Montreal Limited"
My YouTube
rrinkerI suspect those converted fly zappers just don't have the static generating capacity of the 'real' ones.
I suspect those converted fly zappers just don't have the static generating capacity of the 'real' ones. Noch is IMO way overpriced, but others are more reasonable, but still more than a dollar store electric flyswatter - there's a reason they are found in dollar stores.
In the latest Log Blog episode on MRVP, David Popp uses the new Pecon precision unit, it's a very small wand, designed to get in small places for detailing rather than covering large areas - they have a different model for that. In the video he notes that the ability to stand up the fibers drops off quickly when you get away from the grounding pin, so you need to move the pin and work near it as much as possible.
To get good pictures - if your camera has a manual focus mode, use that. If you are using a cell phone camera, most will focus on the spot you tap on. You also need lots of light and/or need to keep the camera steady - rest it on the benchwork. Then the fine fibers should show up without being just thin blurs.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
It is conductive. You sure your static applicator is working properly? Should be able to stand them up even without grounding.
I have been experimenting with static grass. You can read about it here.
EDIT: It won't work for me. It just won't stand up!?!. What am I doing wrong?