Trains.com

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

filling in a long frog

2102 views
9 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    July 2009
  • From: lavale, md
  • 4,678 posts
filling in a long frog
Posted by gregc on Thursday, November 15, 2018 11:24 AM

i completed cutting the rails for my 22/25" curved turnout with a #12.5 frog.   

As you might expect with such a long frog, the rails "wing" fairly far from the tip of the frog and there is little for the wheels to ride on.   I've made sure the guard rail straddles that section of the frog to keep the wheels aligned with the frog, but, of course, the wheel bounce.

I was thinking of filling in the gap with solder and using Tony Koester's suggestion of using an old hacksaw blade to cut the solder to an appropriate depth for the wheel flanges to ride to minimize the bounce.  (see image below)

At least at the moment, the are no ties under that section of the turnout.   while a piece of copper foil soldered to the bottoms of the rails and held in place when the solder is added, I am wondering if aluminum foil or something else might also work to keep the solder at rail height?

greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading

  • Member since
    June 2007
  • 8,892 posts
Posted by riogrande5761 on Thursday, November 15, 2018 12:10 PM

What about a plastic shim?

Rio Grande.  The Action Road  - Focus 1977-1983

  • Member since
    February 2008
  • 2,360 posts
Posted by kasskaboose on Thursday, November 15, 2018 12:57 PM

This issue was somewhat to what I experienced with #8 Atlas turnouts.  A friend used a Dremel and filled in the gap with stryene.  This is a frustrating process b/c I thought it was an issue with my wiring. 

  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Vancouver Island, BC
  • 23,330 posts
Posted by selector on Thursday, November 15, 2018 1:37 PM

I use thin plastic strips cut to size.  If needs be, I stack them until I know the flange depth is met.  Instead of solder, if I were to think if adding bulk material, I would resort to epoxy first.  Dam the ends with tape or foil, and then pour the epoxy.  Try to get it to just above the flange height.  Don't fill it up to the tops of the rails because that will just be a ton more work.

  • Member since
    July 2007
  • From: Yorkton, Sk, Cnd
  • 441 posts
Posted by wvg_ca on Thursday, November 15, 2018 3:15 PM

i used sheet styrene cut into a wedge shape on my #6 custom line turnouts, i -think- it was an 0.010 or 0.015 shim that i ca'd in ..  five or six years ago, still haven't painted them, guess black doesn't show too readily ??

  • Member since
    February 2009
  • 1,983 posts
Posted by railandsail on Tuesday, November 27, 2018 5:14 PM

I'd be interested in what you finally settle on doing to fill those flangeways. I was looking at this problem with a lot of interest a few months ago when I was anticipating trying to utilize a lot of nice German made Fleischmann turnouts on my new layout.

Fleischmann & Peco (early ones) often have deep flangeways to accomodate the larger flange wheels of many European trains.

I believe I recall seeing references to 'sheets' of metal filler pieces that could be bought for these turnouts. But I believe these filler pieces were aimed at the flangeway depths rather than the guard rails that also need slimming up??

  • Member since
    February 2009
  • 1,983 posts
Posted by railandsail on Tuesday, November 27, 2018 5:24 PM

I found one of those discussions,...

Inlays are possible

The offered etched metal inlays to make their turnouts RP25 compatible.
https://www.ebay.at/itm/Roco-Spur-H0-98019-Atzbogen-RP25-Herzstuckeinsat...

These Roco parts show that it can be done. They wouldn't fit Fleischmann turnouts because of different geometries.

I know of only two European track systems that are RP25 code 110 compatible: Peco Streamline code 75, 83, and 100; and Tillig Elite. On all others the wheels fall into the gap. RP25 code 88 I don't know.

The different European and American standards lead to this problem.
Regards, Volker

  • Member since
    February 2009
  • 1,983 posts
Posted by railandsail on Tuesday, November 27, 2018 5:29 PM

I posted on that conversation,..

So we have 2 candidate materials suggested thus far to use in shimming up the height of those 'canyons' between the rails presented by the frog points,.....styrene and metal:

1) Metal,...I think would present too many arcing and shorting problems, particularly with DCC operation

2) Styrene,...perhaps too soft to resist excess wear by those sometimes too-sharp wheel flanges

3) Alternatives?

 

...more here  http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/t/267527.aspx

  • Member since
    December 2015
  • From: Shenandoah Valley
  • 9,094 posts
Posted by BigDaddy on Tuesday, November 27, 2018 5:41 PM

industrial diamonds Big Smile

Henry

COB Potomac & Northern

Shenandoah Valley

  • Member since
    February 2009
  • 1,983 posts
Posted by railandsail on Wednesday, November 28, 2018 4:38 AM

BigDaddy

industrial diamonds Big Smile

 

Can I load them onboard one of my gondolas and haul them off.

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Search the Community

ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
Model Railroader Newsletter See all
Sign up for our FREE e-newsletter and get model railroad news in your inbox!