I do the same thing, with a jig, but don't need all that tape......the jig is 100 scale ft. long and use 3/64''/1/32nd hardened brass rod at 10 scale ft intervals. Been doing it that way for about 5yrs. now. I don't use barbed wire though. Not all industrial chain link fences used it.
The long posts go into holes drilled in the Homasote base. I make them to be removable. I also put a small piece of brass tube at one end so the next piece of fence can slide into it without having to solder, for longer fences.
Take Care!
Frank
What has worked for me is creating a jig from a 1X2 piece of pine. I cut groves to reduce movement located for posts and rails. Using 18 gauge galvanized steel wire I cut the posts to the length of the jig. After cutting the rails I tape wire down to prevent movement and solder all joints. Remove fence from jig and bend top of posts above top rail to 45 degrees. Attach 3 strands of barbed wire with CA glue. I use 34 gauge wire doubled over and twisted with drill for the barbed wire. Attach tulle to the fence frame with CA, trim and paint with gray primer. I then finish with rattle can spray of silver with some weathering. Fun project and easy to do.
Harrison Lone Wolf and Santa Fe Window screen works good. The metal kind is better than the fablic type. That sounds good. What should I use for posts?
Lone Wolf and Santa Fe Window screen works good. The metal kind is better than the fablic type.
Window screen works good. The metal kind is better than the fablic type.
That sounds good. What should I use for posts?
I have used finish nails in the past but they are to thick. I found some metal things that are narrower. They are 18 inches long. I’m not sure what they are called because I have had them for so long that the label is gone from the packaging. They might be some kind of floral wire. They are fairly stiff but not to stiff to bend with pliers or even by hand.
Frank,
Thats some very nice work right there.
Regards
Anton.
Youtube- lUke towan. Everything you need to know to build a chain link. And tips to make it easier
A pessimist sees a dark tunnel
An optimist sees the light at the end of the tunnel
A realist sees a frieght train
An engineer sees three idiots standing on the tracks stairing blankly in space
Just so you know, the fence mesh in the Walthers kit is Tulle, the same bridal veil fabric. I found some at the craft store, A.C. Moore. It's expensive if you buy square yards of it, but they took pity on me and gave me some scraps for free.
I took a piece of 1x2 lumber and drilled small holes for the posts, and used that as a base, gluing about 8 inches at a time.
I painted the fence after it was done with silver rattle can spray and then with dull coat. A bit of weathering powder can be added to give it more age.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Out of all the chain link fence kits that are out in the market, the only one that I cared for was the Alloy forms one....but unfortunately, they no longer use the fence material that originally came with the older kits. It was already pre-cut and made out of Aluminum, (now it is a thick cloth type mesh, too thick) which looked great. The posts, although to scale were quite flimzy. One bump and they were damaged, quite often, not repairable. So I made My own......mainly because I wanted it to be removable.
I used 3/64'' hardened brass rod, 1/32'' stringers and at first Aluminum screen mesh that is used for clay scupltures. Unfortunately the smallest size was 1/16'' squares, but cut at an 45 degree angle it will be a diamond and the Aluminum had to be CA'ed to the brass. Which was ok, but I did some searching and found a place that had a smaller size 3/64 and was made out of copper, which is excellent for soldering.........the price though would be prohibitive for some's pocket book. I did not care......I wanted it..period. So I shelled out 75.00 for a 36''x 5ft. minimun order.......enough probably to build everyone a large chain link fence LOL. I also aside from being removable, I wanted a working gate......then I said heck! I settled on sliding gates to make it different than what everyone else has.......they work like a charm and they stand up to the Grandkids moving them.
One of the first ones I built, before paint, the long rods are what is inserted into My Homasote base so it can be removed when need be:
A photo or two of it installed on site:
The second one which is a little different, on a drop in diarama I am working on:
This shot is without the screen on yet.....I was test fitting the holes I drilled into the Homasote........I would not waste My time ever, using foam for anything on the layout but scenery.......But that's Me!
The bridge don't belong there, just did it for a few laughs, but the fence is all up in this shot:
Take Care, good luck!
MisterBeasley I have also used the Walthers kit. It's frustrating at first, but I got better at it. I think I might try a soldered brass wire frame with Tulle for the fence itself. Take your time. Rushing through the job results in errors and fencing that falls apart and has to be redone.
I have also used the Walthers kit. It's frustrating at first, but I got better at it. I think I might try a soldered brass wire frame with Tulle for the fence itself.
Take your time. Rushing through the job results in errors and fencing that falls apart and has to be redone.
I recently built the Northern Power and Light substation. It came with a fabric fencing material. Their recommendation was to first apply it to a sticky substance such as the back side of shelving paper. Make sure it is applied straight, then cut it. It worked great. I just wish it was as easy to assemble the fence.
Small gauge finish nails are an option.
Regards, Peter
Harrison
Homeschooler living In upstate NY a.k.a Northern NY.
Modeling the D&H in 1978.
Route of the famous "Montreal Limited"
My YouTube
While I'm sure you'll get several answers regarding scratchbuilding fencing, I would advise you to go with the Walthers kit. I have made several loooonnng sections of fencing for my HO scale layout using these kits. The only change from the kit I would recommend is subsituting .020" music wire for the horizontal piping between the plastic posts. Drill .020" holes through the top and bottom of each plastic post WHILE STILL ON THE SPRUE. Once all the holes are drilled, remove the posts from the sprue and thread them onto lengths of music wire pre-bent to fit the fence location. Mark and drill mounting holes for the fence posts then dry assemble your fence pushing each post into its mounting hole as you go. Once everything is assembled AND aligned, place a drop of CA at each fence post/music wire junction. Once the CA cures, you can either attach the tule with the fence in place or temporarily remove the fence and attach the tule at your workbench.
I would recommend patiently cutting the tule with a sharp hobby knife on a black or dark color piece of paper. Trying to cut straight lines with the correct diamond pattern using scissors is next to impossible. You'll go a little batty using a hobby knife but layout visitors will marvel how good your fencing looks. After painting my fencing with a dull silver color or flat grey paint (depending on the age of the fencing I want), I then add weathering and three strands of rust colored thread to simulate barbed wire along the top of the fence.
Hornblower
Have you searched here or online for making them? The two basic ways are with Stryene or using wire and Tulle (what is used in wedding dresses and sold at craft stores).
I've used the wire method and like it but learned a lot from it. One thing is not putting too much pressure on the materail to avoid breaking. Another is creating holes for the wires to enter the foam with a toothpick. There are plenty of ways to make the wire.
Hi all,
I need a chain link fence for the GP paper mill on my layout. I don't want to make a special order from Walthers, so is there a way to scratchbuild one?