Peco SL-99 three way turnout question

[B. Bryce]

I must be really lucky compared to most.  I have not yet installed the Peco 3-way, but a lot of the Peco code 100 standard and curved turnouts are installed and working, and I have never yet had a short with any of my diesel locomotives or the Genisis 4-6-4 Hudson, the Big Boy or the Bachmann EM-1.  Even able to roll all my freight and lit passenger cars.  Should I start to have problems, I now know some things to do, but so far, so good.  Knock on vinyl (real wood is hard to find anymore!).

[railandsail]

 

Been there, done that

Bill Brillinger

A few other threads on the topic:

http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/19373
http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/17708

 

My solution to the same issue was first to paint the frogs - which worked fine until the paint wore off. Then I cleaned off the paint and applied very thin super sticky .03mm sign vinyl to the frogs and they have been no issue ever since.

Painted:

         

Vinyl applied:

[basementdweller]

I eventually removed my Peco 3 way turnout due to it always shorting at the frogs. I tried nail polish but could never get it to stop entirely. I was always nudging a locomotive across it. So I removed it. 

[richhotrain]

MisterBeasley

The only issue I've had in 12 years of any Peco has been the frog short when a wide tread wheel bridges the narrow gap at the frog.  This was easily fixed with a bit of black nail polish, and I have never had to reapply it.

I do not have the Peco 3-way turnout, but I have had shorts on the Walthers/Shinohara 3-way turnout as well as the Peco Diamond Crossing. So, I would advise you to follow Mister Beasley's procedure by applying nail polish where there rails of opposite polarity converge close to the frog before installing your 3-way turnout.

Rich

[MisterBeasley]

The only issue I've had in 12 years of any Peco has been the frog short when a wide tread wheel bridges the narrow gap at the frog.  This was easily fixed with a bit of black nail polish, and I have never had to reapply it.

Peco switch machines take more power than Atlas machines.  Get a Capacitive Discharge circuit.  Mine saved me a switch machine when a toggle switch stuck in the ON position.

[B. Bryce]

I install removable ties under the flex track at all rail joiner locations, trim them and re-install them under the rails without any glue.  All of my switches are removable by removing the ties, sliding the rail joiners under the flex track, lifting the bad switch out, setting the new switch in place and sliding the rail joiners back into position and re-installing the ties.  I lay cut pieces of index cards painted grey, (or in the case of Peco switches, I download the correct switch template from the Peco website) under the whole switch, so when I lay ballast, the ballast sticks to the ties and the index cards, and when I remove the switch, the ballast comes right out with the switch.

I just was wondering how ofter some people found they needed to remove the switches.  So far, looking at all the other threads regarding Peco switches and turnout motors, almost no one has needed to do this.  Great news so far.

[RR_Mel]

I don’t have any experience with the Peco SL-99 but after having to replace my first 25 year old turnout I came up with an easy way to do it.

 

Because of the way I originally installed my turnouts when one goes bad I have to cut them up to remove them.  Before installing the new turnouts I cut away the ties under the feeder rails enough so that the joiner can slide back clearing the turnout rails.  I drop in the new turnout and slide the joiners in place.  I only use a couple of track nails to secure the new turnout if needed.  If I ever have to replace the replacement it will be a piece of cake.

 

As I replace the 30 year old Atlas turnouts (or under table Atlas #55 switch machine, the throw arms get puny) I have been converting the new Atlas turnouts to the Peco spring operation and mounting a Peco PL-10 under it.  I use a 2¼” hole saw so that the replacement just drops in with prewired pigtails and micro connectors. 

 

 

 

I’ve been experimenting with servos but I think I will stay with the PL-10s.  “If it ain’t broke don’t fix it”  The Peco mod to an Atlas Custom Line turnout works great for me.  The first turnout I did has been in service for almost four years and must have hundreds of operations without a single problem.  I have 9 Mel Conversions in service all work perfect.

 

Mel

 

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

 

[B. Bryce]

I am installing a Peco SL-99 triple turnout.  It will have 2 PL-10 turnout motors with  NCE Snap-it CD turnout decoders.  It will not be operated frequently and is not on a main line, but in a coal mine to direct ore cars under the Walthers Cornerstone New River Coal Mine structure.  The turnout is within 25" of the layout edge and I can get to it for servicing, but replacement, while possible, may be more of a chore.

All my Peco turnouts have been very reliable as well as my PL-10 switch motors (you just keep them clean and once a year lubricate them slightly.  I do not use the PL-13 or the PL-15 aux contact switches, just the PL-10 by itself mounted directly to the underside of the turnout. I also do not ballast my turnouts between the points.

I have searched the forum for anyone having issues, but most all seem real clean after the turnout is installed, configured, adjusted, tested and working properly.  Does anyone have any experience with any failure rates for this turnout beyond this point that would require removing the turnout for repair or replacement?