davidmurray What has not been addressed is the transportation question. If you can place a 2x8 piece of plywood in you vechicle and carry it to where you need it, working in sections is a great idea. If you need to pay to have material delivered getting as much as possible without getting excess is also a good idea. I live close to big box stores, and used to drive (in building days) an Astro van. So I built in phases. Dave
What has not been addressed is the transportation question.
If you can place a 2x8 piece of plywood in you vechicle and carry it to where you need it, working in sections is a great idea.
If you need to pay to have material delivered getting as much as possible without getting excess is also a good idea.
I live close to big box stores, and used to drive (in building days) an Astro van. So I built in phases.
Dave
Transport was not an issue for me. I can fit 2 1/2 x 8 foot sheets in my RAV4 if I slide them up between the front two seats. I can fit 1x4 by ten feet lumber into my Prius. A sedan might be a problem for lumber but an SUV or hatchback should be fine if you are creative to get batches of lumber home.
The big 4x8 sheets can be cut down by Home Depot or Lowe's to fit in many cars.
At my last home I was about 4 or 5 miles from HD. Now I'm more like 10 or 11 miles, a HD one way and a Lowe's the other.
As for benchwork sections, you can make a copy of your track plan and draw in frame sections to fit in logical sizings that are fairly easy to build and handle. Mine ranged from 2x8 to 2 1/2 x 6 feet etc. All sizes two people could lift and carry. In fact all those sections were carried out of the basement when I moved and put in the U-haul truck and to the next house! See, they made it:
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
davidmurray riogrande5761 That is a good question. I built my 10x18' layout in phases and so I bought lumber in phases. What I did was to do what you did, design a scale track plan. Then you can overlay a series of benchwork sections as squares or rectangles ( assuming you do open grid frames). You can build the benchwork in sections and buy the lumber you need a couple sections at a time, assuming you don't want to estimate ALL the lumber and buy it ALL at once in a lump sum cost. What has not been addressed is the transportation question. If you can place a 2x8 piece of plywood in you vechicle and carry it to where you need it, working in sections is a great idea. If you need to pay to have material delivered getting as much as possible without getting excess is also a good idea. I live close to big box stores, and used to drive (in building days) an Astro van. So I built in phases. Dave
riogrande5761 That is a good question. I built my 10x18' layout in phases and so I bought lumber in phases. What I did was to do what you did, design a scale track plan. Then you can overlay a series of benchwork sections as squares or rectangles ( assuming you do open grid frames). You can build the benchwork in sections and buy the lumber you need a couple sections at a time, assuming you don't want to estimate ALL the lumber and buy it ALL at once in a lump sum cost.
Hmmmmm, Always someone poking in with the common sense thing!
Better measure my Durango hatch opening. May need to get the plywood delivered.
Riogrande, I like that idea, I think that’s what I’ll do too.
riogrande5761That is a good question. I built my 10x18' layout in phases and so I bought lumber in phases. What I did was to do what you did, design a scale track plan. Then you can overlay a series of benchwork sections as squares or rectangles ( assuming you do open grid frames). You can build the benchwork in sections and buy the lumber you need a couple sections at a time, assuming you don't want to estimate ALL the lumber and buy it ALL at once in a lump sum cost.
First decide if you are using L Girder or Open Grid technique. Looking at your design I would recommend L Girder. Then on a copy of your track plan start drawing the actual pieces of lumber to be used. Then count them. Don’t forget legs and cross braces as well as sub road bed and risers.
Rio has a sound approach. I did likewise to also avoid being overwhelemed with too much lumber. Taking the time to (alliteration y'all!) measure is invaluable.
I would treat each box as a foot section. From that, get what you need. A larger challenge (for me) was to put the track on the layout. I drew a grid on the foam to replciate the design on paper. Despite doing that, I still changed some of the track work. Allowing space for adjusting helps avoiding being cornered into a tight space and having to sacrifice space. Surprisingly, even after some changes, what I drew was very similar to the paper design.
I used the David Barrow "domino" approach - first I drew a 1" = 1 ft. outline of the available space (showing columns, outlets, windows, and low hanging duct work) on big sheets of graph paper. Made a bunch of cardstock 2" x 4" "dominos" representing the full size 2' by 4' that I moved around the drawing of the floor plan to see what would fit where and what left the best aisles.
At track plan time I found a plastic planning template also sized to 1" = 1 ft. Drew the plan(s) - remembering that 2 ft maximum width, and then used the cardstock dominos to simply figure out how many 2 ft x 4 ft dominos I'd need to make. That in turn created my lumber list but in truth I was busy building dominos out of pine and plywood even before the final track plan was arrived at. I just moved them around the basement floor like big game pieces -- trying out proof of concept so to speak. That is one of the key features of the Barrow system.
Only negative if it is one: the domino system unquesionably uses more wood than the L girder system would - more legs to be sure because each domino is free standing. There are corresponding benefits to that, but it does use more wood.
Dave Nelson
That is a good question. I built my 10x18' layout in phases and so I bought lumber in phases.
What I did was to do what you did, design a scale track plan. Then you can overlay a series of benchwork sections as squares or rectangles ( assuming you do open grid frames). You can build the benchwork in sections and buy the lumber you need a couple sections at a time, assuming you don't want to estimate ALL the lumber and buy it ALL at once in a lump sum cost.
I like the phased method because I can buy lumber in more affordable bites, and build the layout in managible phases.
I built open grid frames using 1x4 dimensional lumber and cross members using 1x3 lumber.
I started by assembling two basic sections, each 2x8 feet. Here is the first one:
Here are two 2x8 sections with OSB on top bolted together in-line as a 16 foot long table top, and a 3rd section bolted on against the back wall:
Here is a 4th section added onto the opposite end:
And another back onto the other side - and so it goes until all sections were in place to be a full around the wall layout:
The vertical pieces along the wall I added before putting the sections into place were for a 2nd level. It was easier to add them while I could easily screw them into place while the benchwork was away from the wall, rather than later when it would be hard to get at it.
Anyway, to make a short story long, if you break up the layout into sections, you can more easily estimate lumber for them and buy it and build them several at a time.
Think of it like estimating the square footage of a room, you have to break up some odd shaped rooms into sections that you can easily calculate area, and then add them all up. Similar here for benchwork for a layout.
Nice concept, hope it works out for you and provides enjoyment while building your empire! Anyway, I'm not a carpenter by trade, but it would be a matter of adding up the square feet to determine the board feet needed. Also, this is an overhead/areal view, do you have a side view that shows the height of the layout, or what you plan on using as your benchwork?
Terry
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Ok so I have settled on a new layout design. Is there an easy/reliable way to convert the plan to a lumber list.
Each box = 1’ the partial box on teh right = 8”
The software i used provides a parts list but not a lumber list.