gmpullmanAs soon as they get a new Fleming Valve tube for their computer they plan to update their site.
Rather than wasting time waiting for the Fleming Valve tube, they should just replace the entire turboencabulator.
BigDaddy gmpullman I'd say more like a major point... http://www.greatwestmodels.com/ Maybe, but I'm not ordering from any company where the "New Product" page says available Fall 2008
gmpullman I'd say more like a major point... http://www.greatwestmodels.com/
Maybe, but I'm not ordering from any company where the "New Product" page says available Fall 2008
As soon as they get a new Fleming Valve tube for their computer they plan to update their site.
I see this quite frequently with many model RR sites.
Good Luck, Ed
gmpullmanI'd say more like a major point... http://www.greatwestmodels.com/
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
maxmanA minor point, but it is Great West Models.
I'd say more like a major point...
http://www.greatwestmodels.com/
Cheers, Ed
I first thought of using stone textured paint matching my ballast under my turnouts to make them look ballasted with much less ballast around the moving parts. As I get older (Parts of me are already there), I am thinking more and more of prepainting even before laying the cork down. My feeling is that it would look a little better and reduce the need to ballast until the track had proven itself 100% free of flaws. (Alright, as free as possible.)
Good luck,
Richard
riogrande5761I wouldn't mind getting some Great Western Models buildings or sides myself, but are they even selling product anylonger?
A minor point, but it is Great West Models. Great Western Models is something different.
I have seen some of the Great West Models building kits at the Timonium show.
nealknows riogrande5761 I wouldn't mind getting some Great Western Models buildings or sides myself, but are they even selling product anylonger? Not to my knowledge. If they are, no one carries their line. I've been to LHS in NY, NJ, MA, CT, FL, PA and train shows. No one has any of the line.
riogrande5761 I wouldn't mind getting some Great Western Models buildings or sides myself, but are they even selling product anylonger?
I wouldn't mind getting some Great Western Models buildings or sides myself, but are they even selling product anylonger?
Not to my knowledge. If they are, no one carries their line. I've been to LHS in NY, NJ, MA, CT, FL, PA and train shows. No one has any of the line.
That a shame.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
nealknows Hi riogrande5761, I posted pics of the structure I made using various kits and parts from Great West Models
Hi riogrande5761,
I posted pics of the structure I made using various kits and parts from Great West Models
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/p/272466/3097812.aspx#3097812
Neal
Makes sense; low density material didn't seem likely to hold nails or spikes, which I prefer to adhesives at the track laying stage. I really really like not having to use adhesives when first laying track - has saved me a lot of time and trouble revising when needed, and on my last layout, for a mulititude of reasons I need to pull up and relay in several area's; one reason was water issues and I had to disassemble some sections to deal with it and put them back.
Never seen anything like your tackboard; when I saw your photo's at first, I thought it was slot car track! Seriously!
riogrande5761 Thanks for the info Mike. BTW, does that tackboard old spikes or track nails?
Thanks for the info Mike. BTW, does that tackboard old spikes or track nails?
I've never tried but I have my doubts...
Michael
The Breitenbach - Rosenheim Railroad V3
It looks a bit similar to Homasote (paper product) but maybe lighter and less dense. In the past I have cut strips from stanadard half-inch Homasote for track subroadbed and kerfed it where it needed to be curved. I have acquired a small amount of a commercial product for track called Homabed and it's pretty nice stuff too, but not sure of it's availability now. On my last layout I went old school and used sheets of Homasote for yards and standard Midwest split cork for mainline - which I sanded before laying track.
It's good to know various options however to evaluate for the future.
riogrande5761 michaelrose55 I make my own. It's lasercut taskboard. This way I have precision whe I lay track. I have never heard of task board. What kind of material is it. I get precision by laying cork halves on the center-line I draw using my scale layout plan. Different means to an end.
michaelrose55 I make my own. It's lasercut taskboard. This way I have precision whe I lay track.
I make my own. It's lasercut taskboard. This way I have precision whe I lay track.
You can buy taskboard here: https://www.taskboard.com/
It's a paper based product that can be used for all kinds of modeling.
That is a shame if GWM is no longer in business. I like their buildings; hoping I am not a day late and a dollar short.
I have tried emailing and calling the number; the email was not bounced back yet and there was a voicemail I could leave a message at. Time will tell.
wp8thsub That was built from Great West Models kit http://www.greatwestmodels.com/ . The website is still up, but I'm not sure how current anything is. The kits had modular sections that could be assembled in any configutation, and they also had packages of just the walls. I'm not sure what the official name for this style of panel is, but it's a variation on concrete tilt-up construction used in a lot of country.
That was built from Great West Models kit http://www.greatwestmodels.com/ . The website is still up, but I'm not sure how current anything is. The kits had modular sections that could be assembled in any configutation, and they also had packages of just the walls.
I'm not sure what the official name for this style of panel is, but it's a variation on concrete tilt-up construction used in a lot of country.
I don't think they're still in business. They're not listed in the Walthers Catalog and I haven't seen anything around in the form of building kits in hobby shops, EBay or train shows.
Many years ago I bought a number of their kits and kitbashed a large structure for my layout.
IDRickRob, I like the building in the above picture. Is this a model or scratch build? What do you call that type of wall structure?
Rob Spangler
wp8thsub I airbrushed this track, so there wasn't much overspray.
I airbrushed this track, so there wasn't much overspray.
Rob, I like the building in the above picture. Is this a model or scratch build? What do you call that type of wall structure? We have buildings like this in Idaho and I've wanted to scratchbuild one for my layout. Thanks
I've never seen roadbed like that before, what is it?
I just started painting roadbed today:
I did not paint the cork except for some black under the turnout frogs, which i did not ballast.
Joe Staten Island West
I followed one of Rob Spanglers methods; in that case I used a rattle can of Rustoleum camoflage brown and sprayed the track and cork from a a few different angles to make sure there weren't unpainted surfaces.
I painted it at this stage so its covered:
Other side not painted yet:
Yes, and use a dark color to emphasize the shadows.
.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
I paint the track, and in the process the roadbed under it gets painted too.
Here's the same area after ballasting. The roadbed is no longer visible.
I don't paint the cork. Seems like a waste of time if you are going to ballast your track and cover it.
Thanks Ed! I'll go check them out...
nealknowsOne thing I saw is that someone mentioned sanding the esge of the cork to give it a better look. I like that idea.
That process is almost a necessity as the beveled cut always leaves a ridge. Not only for a better look but when ballasting, that ridge is difficult to hide. I use a Stanly Surform rasp for this job.
stanley-surform by Edmund, on Flickr
Then use a Stanley Surform plane to level-off the high spots before laying track:
stanley-planes by Edmund, on Flickr
At least this is what works for me.
Thank you, Ed