I have mentioned the method many times on these Forums. Whether I originated it or not I no longer recall; years ago Terry Thompson when he was MR editor had an editorial about various alternative ways to deal with the age old "problem" of ballasting turnouts. He might have been the one to suggest it.
A few points and refinements. The far ends of the turnout away from the moving points can of course be ballasted in the normal manner. This is just to avoid having ballast and cement gum up the works. Do not put any duct tape directly under the throwbar, but yes under the ties beneath the moving points. I prefer duct tape because it seems to hold its adhesive qualities better than other masking tapes. I use black duct tape for this, not the silvery gray stuff, in case there are slight gaps between grains of ballast. There might be even better duct tape colors out there. I pour the ballast on the turnout with tape beneath and "tamp" the ballast in place into the duct tape with a Qtip or other soft-ended and narrow tool. A brush or vacuum removes the excess. And the duct tape is trimmed so it is no wider than the ends of the ties.
I said no duct tape under the throwbar. That can create an oddly vacant look - how to address? Well one way is a small piece of fairly fine sandpaper on the roadbed under the throwbar. A modest wash of india ink + alchohol can make it blend in fairly well. Weathering powders might be even better.
Dave Nelson
I've done the same thing but I use 2'' blue painters tape. A bit thinner than duct tape but it does the same thing as far as ballasting is concerned. --- Ken
Thanks, Selector! Excellent discussion about a helpful trick!
Neat! I never knew about that! I will have to try it...
I'm beginning to realize that Windows 10 and sound decoders have a lot in common. There are so many things you have to change in order to get them to work the way you want.
Cut a length of 2" duct tape, apply it to the under-surfaces of the ties along the major axis (through route), and lay the turnout right side up.
Apply a sprinkling of ballast grains along the major axis, let sit a few seconds for adhesion to take effect well, then invert and shake loose all that can be ejected from the ballast that way.
Once the grains stop falling, insert the turnout in place in the track plan and ballast the diverging route and route around the frog and beyond to the exits opposite the points. This leaves the points rails free of binding grains, and the throwbar as well.
Someone mentioned using the duct tape trick on turnouts. What is the trick?