Help with a damaged turnout

[BriSprad]

Hi,

First time poster here although for the past few years, I've browsed quite a bit looking for ideas and suggestions.

I'm putting the finishing touches on my layout but I have ran into a major problem. I had a small section of track connected to the approach end of the turnout. While checking over everything, I noticed the small section was buckeled and not allowing my engine to pass. After analyzing it, I decided to pull it out and redo it. Sadly, my turnout got damaged in the process. The one rail is no longer held down in place by the plastic spikes. If I press on it, I can put it back in place easily. Since replacing the turnout is a major project, I was hoping to get by with somehow gluing the stray rail down, using a track gauge to make sure it is correct, then putting my short section of track back in. What do you all think?

It'll be a few days before I can get back to my LHS if I need anything, so I figured I'll brainstrom some before making more mistakes!

Thanks for any help!

 

-Brian

[selector]

Get some gel cyanoacrylate glue (super glue) and use a pin or something to get some of it under the rail, or between the spikehead details in five or six place, more if you have the patience.  Then, supporting under the ties really well, press down the rail and hold it in place until the glue sets.  That should work.

I like Gorilla Glue.  It needs a bit of wetness, water, for it to work well, as the instructions explain.  But, if you apply a bit of it the same way, six or eight spots along the underside of the rail, with a bit of water to catalyze it, and let it set, you will save the rail.  The advantage, which for appearances is actually a disadvantage, is that the foamy texture the cured glue takes will act very much as spikeheads. Sorta.

[SouthPenn]

Gorilla glue makes a clear glue that needs no water.

When I make that kind of repair, I attach the broken switch rails to a section of track, like snap track or flex track that has the proper track gauge. This helps hold the track in place.  

[MisterBeasley]

I would try the CA glue, too.  There's a good chance it will work.  If not, don't be afraid to replace the turnout.  Sometimes it's not worth the trouble to save a few dollars.

[Renegade1c]

What type of roadbed are you using. You may be able to drill out the existing plastic rail head and use a railspike (small nail) to hold the rail down. IF you are using foam or cork it may not work but homasote and plwood will work well. The cork and foam will not hold a nail but the other two will 

[BriSprad]

It’s cork.

 

-Brian

[BriSprad]

Thanks Selector. I wouldn’t have thought of the support underneath until I got frustrated and mad at the whole thing not setting up properly. Along with the suggestion below of using a section of track to help with keeping it in gauge, I now have the confidence to attempt the repair. I’ll try to get the rail back on ties, then gingerly replace the section of track. I figured it would take multiple steps, which is fine with me. If it doesn’t work I’ll replace the turnout. 

Thanks to everyone for all the good suggestions. 

-Brian

[doctorwayne]

Personally, I'd use contact cement, as the joint thus formed will allow some longitudinal movement of the rail should your layout be subject to seasonal contraction and expansion.

Most of the track on the upper level of my layout is Micro Engineering rail, secured on Central Valley tie strips using LePages' gelled contact cement.  In the photo below, the turnout just this side of the station platform is from a Central Valley kit, and all fixed rails are held in place by contact cement, as is all of the plain track that's visible in the photo.

By the way, Brian, to the MR Forums!

Wayne

[riogrande5761]

BriSprad

my turnout got damaged in the process. The one rail is no longer held down in place by the plastic spikes. If I press on it, I can put it back in place easily.

I've done this before and the solution is easy if you have some MicroEngineering spikes. 

Two sizes I keep on hand are medium and small - the medium work well for code 100 and 83 and the small I used on code 70, but it just depends on what looks and works right for each type of rail and track.

I personally wouldn't rely on glue to hold the rail in place although you could certainly do that too.  But what I do is push the rail in place and put a spike on either side to hold it down. 

Thats assuming, of course, you have a subroadbed that will hold spikes, such as plywood or Homasote.  If you are using foam beneath the track, you'll likely have to rely on glue, although you could still put spikes in and add glue to them to secure everything in place.

The bumpers installed here were fastened down with ME spikes for example.

[Medina1128]

Renegade1c

What type of roadbed are you using. You may be able to drill out the existing plastic rail head and use a railspike (small nail) to hold the rail down. IF you are using foam or cork it may not work but homasote and plwood will work well. The cork and foam will not hold a nail but the other two will 

 

I use cork roadbed, and when I need to use a spike, I coat it with CA, then press it into place, seating it with a nail or punch.

[BATMAN]

I had the same problem with a Walthers TO that got damaged. I used five minute epoxy to put rail into position and then when that dried, using a pin and a #11 blade I dabbed tiny bits of five minute epoxy to simulate the spikes on the edge of the rail matching the originals that were still in place. A dab of paint and weathering powder rendered them neutralized from being different from any other turnout.

I have also used the five minute epoxy to simulate rivets when I needed a few on an iron beam. Using a needle to apply and a fine file to round the heads once the glue was dry. They turned out really well.