Not sure who I had the side conversation before about using minimal roadbed but I am finding with my curve laden new layout it isn't working out so well. For one the Woodland Scenics foam roadbed is too pliable and the track is warping in areas leading to flanges lifting out of the flangeway and some derailments. So I flipped back to full width cork track roadbed. Much easier. Also replaced my sectional track with flex track..............less feeder wires and I also find with flex track I can up the curve radius just a little from 22 inches on curves. For roadbed I am basically following the you tube video. Waterproof wood glue on one half the road bed and tack it down with thumb tacks then use the first half of the roadbed as a guide for the second half and repeat with the glue and thumbtacks. I used the sectional track to trace a rough curve on the benchwork of what the radius curve should look like at 22 inch and then if there is any room I can expand it a little more. As others stated with double track use 2.5 inches off track centers for clearance and that seems to work fine.
I used Atlas Track Nails to install the cork roadbed on my layout. It's much easier to make changes and faster to install with nails.
I also installed flex track with these nails.
SouthPennI used Atlas Track Nails to install the cork roadbed on my layout. It's much easier to make changes and faster to install with nails. I also installed flex track with these nails.
I'll look into that. The glue is working out OK so far because the trackplan is pretty much set in stone now. I layed it out on paper then with sectional track.
SouthPenn I used Atlas Track Nails to install the cork roadbed on my layout. It's much easier to make changes and faster to install with nails. I also installed flex track with these nails.
I have done the same on my last three layouts. Yes it's old school and bucks the trend of gluing everything down with caulks or adhesive.
The really great thing about using Atlas track nails is track is fastened down instantly AND you can tweak it a bit to get it "just right". If something is not right, no problem, just pull the nail back out and re-lay.
I prefer to use sheet homasote in yards and traditional cork in the rest of the areas.
Here is track going down on cork "old school":
Here is track going down on sheet Homasote (which has a coat of latex to seal it):
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
I use homasote roadbed like thst from Cascade and I install if with a pneumatic brad nailer, then I glue the track with adheasive caulk, Fast, easy, solid.
Sheldon
Save your self some money. Stick with the cork, it is good stuff and way cheaper. Also, just in case that remotely possible headache or change of ideas happens, this is what I do in advance: I nail the track in one spot almost all the way and then slide the roadbed under. Then I nail it down the rest of the way so that by repeating this for each nail hole, you have adequetely fastened roadbed that can be removed easily at any time, and it will still conform quite nicely to the curves, twists, bends, and straights you may have. I used to glue it, then I tried my new idea. I am not going back.
I'm beginning to realize that Windows 10 and sound decoders have a lot in common. There are so many things you have to change in order to get them to work the way you want.
I have the WS scenics on my layout and I have not had the problem you describe. glue it down with adhesive caulk and it works just fine. Is your layout in a climate controlled location?
Bear "It's all about having fun."
bearmanIs your layout in a climate controlled location?
Yes it is in a inside bedroom the house has a new HVAC system. The Woodland scenics foam absorbs the ties if you nail it down, the cork resists that. Just remove the track from the WS foam and you will see the ties imprinted substantially. On straight sections it is not an issue but in curves and switches it tends to warp the track in my experience with it.
I used WS rooadbed on a previous layout and had no issues, certainly not causing it to buckle the track, but then I was only curving it to a 30" minimum radius. 30" and larger it does not need to be split down the center, for tighter radius curves they recommend splitting it along the already partially cut line down the middle, so it doesn't bunch up on the inside of the curve.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Isn't the W-S road bed soft and spongy? I've read some comments by people have had problems later on with ballast and scenery cracking and chipping when the spongy W-S roadbed deformed and the scenery above it started coming loose. For that reason, keep that in mind if you go that route.
Cork has very little give so that eventuality is virually nill; cork has just enough give to allow you to conform it to normal track configuration and can be sanded where-ever needed for uniformity before laying track.
I prefer the split down the middle of cork - to me it is a major advantage as I can lay the cork dead-on the center-line which I draw, and then the seam is where I can put the track nails in. Very accurate that way.
I find the idea of covering over the center-line with a solid piece of sub roadbed a method which makes it harder to accurately follow the center-line since it is totally hidden. The old school split cork method with track nails means there is nothing at all to obscure your center-line; you simply butt the inside edge of the cord right on the center line and secure - I use Atlas track nails about every 3 inches on straight aways and every 2 inches on curves. That has worked excellent on 3 layouts so far.
If you object to the track nails visible on the ties, no problem. After the ballast is fixed in place, you can simply pull them out - plug the holds with a bit of spackle or suitable material and weather. Nothing showing when complete.
And Cascade homasote roadbed is spit in the middle like cork, only better in my view. The straight pieces are "straight". The curves are curfed to allow bending.
ATLANTIC CENTRALI install if with a pneumatic brad nailer
Why didn't I think of that. I have both an electric and air brad nailer. I could have used it on my spline roadbed as well, even though I glued the splines together, I put a drywall screw through to reinforce them. A brad nailer would have done the trick with less fuss.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
Yes, the WS roadbed is somewhat soft - it's not as soft as say the foam in a pillow though. And why are you leaning on your track like that? It's NOT going to flex and crack ballast under the usual weight of a train. I dunno, worked fine for me. I went with cork last layout because it was all 22-24" curves. Using Cascade stuff on the new one. I'd actually love to use both Cascade AND cork, that was my quietest test. I don't really want to use full homasote sheets and cork, although I could probably get sheet or rolls of cork and run it under the homasote roadbed material.
Never mind,
Mike.
My You Tube
The only reason I asked about climate control is that the foam may get gooey at high temperatures, like we have here in garages in Phoenix in the summer. I suspect that track nails will not be optimal for foam roadbed. But, as I indicated, I have had no problems uisng it.
If you have a layouy in Arizona that is not climae controlled, I'd think you would have more problems with cork - the heat and low humidity would dry it out and dried out cork just crumbles. The WS foam could potentially melt if you left it on the exposed dashboard of your car, parked in the sun, but not likely indoors even if it got up to 120.
rrinkerThe WS foam could potentially melt if you left it on the exposed dashboard of your car, parked in the sun, but not likely indoors even if it got up to 120.
They have covers for dashboard out in AZ so they don't crack. Last time I was in Phoenix it was 117 and in an underpass the car outside temp indicator was 126. We drove to the airport at 4 am and it was 103. I don't know how they do it. If your air conditioner fails, you could die.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
CMStPnP For roadbed I am basically following the you tube video. Waterproof wood glue on one half the road bed and tack it down with thumb tacks then use the first half of the roadbed as a guide for the second half and repeat with the glue and thumbtacks.
For roadbed I am basically following the you tube video. Waterproof wood glue on one half the road bed and tack it down with thumb tacks then use the first half of the roadbed as a guide for the second half and repeat with the glue and thumbtacks.
In the past I've used waterproof wood glue for the cork roadbed, and found that it is very difficult (darn-near impossible) to remove it and make changes after it has fully set.
I've done track with the track nails too, but years ago, decided I didn't care for the look of the nail heads.
On later layouts, I switched to using latex caulk for both the roadbed and track. For roadbed, I tack down the ends of curves with T-pins, but you can remove these after about five minutes as the caulk grabs pretty quickly. You can make changes easily with a putty knife or scraper, unless the cork has been down for years, in which case it takes some effort, but its do-able.
For the track, you can remove it the same way, and if you work slowly, do so without damaging the ties.
Jim
hardcoalcase I've done track with the track nails too, but years ago, decided I didn't care for the look of the nail heads. Jim
You can still fix track down with nails and after the track has been ballasted pull the out. So you get the advantages but removing the later no visual issues. ;-)
BigDaddy Last time I was in Phoenix it was 117 and in an underpass the car outside temp indicator was 126. We drove to the airport at 4 am and it was 103. I don't know how they do it.
Phoenix is an exception to the rule around here. It has a high percentage of asphalt so it retains heat. I'm up the road a bit from there and the high temperatures in the day are lower, and overnight, the temperature drops 30-40 degrees.
No one in their right mind lives in Phoenix--except maybe Diamondback fans.
Chip
Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.
I cannot speak to cork, Randy, since I have never used it, but there are some folks who have a layout in their garage and regret using foam. As for living in Phoenix, I grew up back east, and spent the winter shoveling snow and freezing. When Januray rolls around in Phoenix, I am on the golf course. I'll take the stifling heat in Phoenix any day over the cold and snow.
riogrande5761 You can still fix track down with nails and after the track has been ballasted pull the out. So you get the advantages but removing the later no visual issues. ;-)
bearman As for living in Phoenix, I grew up back east, and spent the winter shoveling snow and freezing. When Januray rolls around in Phoenix, I am on the golf course. I'll take the stifling heat in Phoenix any day over the cold and snow.
Yeah, I hear that. I'm up the 17 from you about an hour and a half--just enough to take the edge off the heat.
SpaceMouse Yeah, I hear that. I'm up the 17 from you about an hour and a half--just enough to take the edge off the heat.