Aaahhh...got ya now. Thanks!
tommy24aLift out?
My layout kinda looks like a G. In order to span that gap,and still be able to move in and out of the center,without ducking under, you make a ''lift out''.
In my case; a 1x6 board,36in long, just sits in a slot or pocket. The track is nailed to it, extra long feeders provide power. To enter, just lift it up and out.
There's a little more to it but that the basic idea.
If you look at the photo that Riogrande posted;the track is on a narrow pieace of lumber,and is above the table top.
The pieaces of wood that hold that lumber/track up, are called risers
Cardboard Mock-up
I'll second that motion for cardboard mock-ups.
I started out thinking I could draw it out on the floormodel-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/30266?page=4#comment-291232
I quickly switched to using some cardboard mock-ups. (BTW, I am not currently persuing this particularly layout plan)
Brian
My Layout Plan
Interesting new Plan Consideration
When you get read to make your track plan, you may want to lay down cardboard to draw out track lines. I did this back in the day before I had a CAD program to build track plans. You can get big sheets of cardboard at places that sell large appliances since the appliances come in large boxes. Lay out the track and change it as much as you want. Don't try and cheat on curves to squeeze something into the position you want. When you start laying track, this will come back to bite you.
Paul D
N scale Washita and Santa Fe RailroadSouthern Oklahoma circa late 70's
Lift out?
If you want continuous running you could put in a "lift out" section at the open end of the U. Just another option, Ken
Thanks!
If you dont have reach issues, and the ends may be expanded, then a folded dog bone in HO would probably work rather nicely if you want a continuous loop. When I did my layout, I used 1/2" plywood then 1" foam subroadbed.
Bear "It's all about having fun."
Thanks..as far as the 3ft reach I can walk around the entire layout. Its far enough away from the walls. I already thought about making the ends bigger to put in loops...
What ''I'' think;
I'm a firm believer in foam.
I wouldn't use L grider, simple box frame
I would rethink that 3ft reach
I would plan on a 4X4 on each end to have a loop
BUT its your layout,make it work for you
At this point in my hobby 'career', I use multiple techniques that depend on what I need my layout to afford me in a given location. I am using L-girders on long reaches with wire screen and ground goop, but in some places I use lengths of 2" extruded insulation foam board glued over plywood. In others, I suspend lengths of either foam or ply cut to fit where I can lift it out and get at something important, or to create a reaching pop-up void to get further into the layout for maintenance. Lakes are good for that, but the shoreline takes some careful crafting to make it look natural if it can be removed whole.
Your layout has to work. It has to run reliably and be fun. As soon as those factors become eroded significantly, there is often a cascade of disappointment and displeasure that makes it a dust-gatherer...a silent and lonely one. Make sure you can reach places, make sure it will support itself and a heavy supporting arm or elbow where you need to place it at times, and spend time working out a fun and long-lived track system.
Got ya ..risers ? Not sure what u mean...
I draw a track plan first and prefer the yard area to be a flat piece of plywood and any mainline outside of that would be on risers so the scenery around it could either rise above or below as necessary. Any areas with building would need a platform to support it. There is a staging yard below it on the lower level btw.
Here on my last layout you can see the yard area - flat and it transistions to open area where the mainline is on risers with scenery going in around it:
I didn't go so fancy as L-girder benchwork, which I felt was unnecessarily complicated to build for me, so I went with open grid which worked just fine and more simple to build with my basic carpentry skills.
Here is the open area with the sub road bed on risers built on open grid benchwork.
BTW, I built this layout with only two power tools, cordless drill and sabre saw!
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
Forgot to mention the span along the wall if far enough away from wall to get behind.
i build mine 47" high. Closer to eye level is better but if you have a bad rotator cuff, working that high is not comfortable.
3' wide is longer than you can reach. Not a problem if there is a mountain or city scene back there, but a troublesome turnout,,,,
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
I guess you have some options. You could us either/or as far as plywood and foam, or you could fasten risers to the girders, to support the road bed.
I like starting with the flat table, using that as a "drawing board" to design the track work, and go from there, using foam to build up scenery areas.
But to each, his own.
I think you should get a track plan down. With a 3' wide bench, using HO scale, that's not enough room for a loop on the ends for any type of continuous running.
N scale should be no problem, in that space.
So far, it seems as though you have a good space for a point to point operation.
Mike.
My You Tube
Ok...newbie here working with my grown son. His basement is a good size..we have 22ft along one wall..10ft out from wall..and 22ft back... a U shape. We built 2 8ft sections of L girder so far. The width of the modules are 3ft. What recommendations for the top of the girders? Plywood , foam? Oh BTW we have not decided on a track plan yet...I know taboo ...other than u shaped walk in..like I said he has plenty or room...any help ? Suggestions ?