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Cutting/shaping a resin casting -- how?

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  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Cutting/shaping a resin casting -- how?
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, December 23, 2004 10:56 PM
I received a Chooch Enterprises resin bridge abutment and pier today, and the pier is about 1/2" taller than the abutment. Fortunately I had the foresight to put a layer of 3/4" Styrofoam on the plywood that supports the bridge (it's a Walthers single-track truss bridge leading into a Walther trestle bridge to span the area in front of a window), so I was able to "lower the ground" so to speak to get both ends of the bridge level.

But that got me to thinking -- how do you cut or shape a resin casting? At some point in the future I'll probably have a resin retaining wall, and most likely the commercial ones won't be the right height and/or length. What's the trick to cutting it to size?

  • Member since
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  • From: San Jose, California
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Posted by nfmisso on Friday, December 24, 2004 7:10 AM
saw, milling machine, dremel, files, etc.
Nigel N&W in HO scale, 1950 - 1955 (..and some a bit newer too) Now in San Jose, California
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  • From: Sierra Vista, Arizona
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Posted by cacole on Friday, December 24, 2004 7:59 AM
For a straight cut, a table saw could be used. Pu***he casting through the blade very slowly to avoid friction heating the casting and melting or warping it.
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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, December 24, 2004 8:43 AM
Well, since I don't own a table saw or milling machine, the dremel will have to do. Thanks, folks!
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  • From: North Central Illinois
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Posted by CBQ_Guy on Sunday, December 26, 2004 2:00 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by jsalemi

Well, since I don't own a table saw or milling machine, the dremel will have to do. Thanks, folks!


Joe,

I'd add the advise to wear a dust mask, too. No reason to breath this stuff...
"Paul [Kossart] - The CB&Q Guy" [In Illinois] ~ Modeling the CB&Q and its fictional 'Illiniwek River-Subdivision-Branch Line' in the 1960's. ~
  • Member since
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  • From: East-Side Seattle
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Posted by bpickering on Monday, December 27, 2004 2:47 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by CBQ_Guy
I'd add the advise to wear a dust mask, too. No reason to breath this stuff...


You know, I was laughing to myself the other day about just this, while doing some airbrushing. When I was young, neither I, nor my parents, thought much of anything about gluing and/or painting indoors, even in the dead of mid-West winters with no outside ventilation. Good 'ol Testors model glue (both for wood & plastic) and paints. Amazing I've got any brain cells left. [:)]

Nowadays, until I built a paint hood (which I also use for gluing anything more radical than Elmers...), I would take the piece out in the garage with the door open. I also use at least a dust mask when using the power saw for more than a moment, and have a chemical mask for the rare times (mostly priming) that I wear when using solvent-based paints. Am I paranoid? Maybe just a little. BUT... is it worth taking the chance? Not in my book.

Back OT: From what little I've done with resins (mostly non-hobby), the "dremel" works wonderfully. As mentioned, take it slow, and be careful with the cutoff disk- it's a cutter, not a grinder (is it obvious that I've had a little problem with breaking the little buggers lately? [:)]) My biggest problem is typically in the surrounding material tending to melt and/or deform- go fast-enough not to melt the surroundings, but not too fast to break the disks.

Brian Pickering
Brian Pickering "Typos are very important to all written form. It gives the reader something to look for so they aren't distracted by the total lack of content in your writing." - Randy K. Milholland

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