Do you glue down turnouts?

[darrel480]

I am starting to lay track for a new n scale layout.  I use latex chaulk to lay track. Just wondering if I should try gluing (chalking) down the turnouts?  Thanks

[SeeYou190]

For me, it is kind of a yes-and-no answer.

.

I lay all track with spikes at first. Once it is running right I glue down ballast. The ballast and glue will hold the track (including turnouts) in place. 

.

Then I pull any offensive spikes, but I leave most in place.

.

So the track starts spiked, then becomes glued.

.

-Kevin

.

[dknelson]

I too use adhesive caulk to lay track.  I mark on the subroadbed (cork) a distance around the moving points where I do not want any caulk to be spread.  So there is caulk holding the turnout in place on all three far ends.  That seems sufficient.

Ballast is another issue.  I have experimented with very carefully ballasting under the points but leaving the area under the throw rod alone.  It can be done.  With care.

I have also tried lightly ballasting a piece of sandpaper cut to size and sliding it under the points so that no cement or liquid or loose ballast gets near them.  It can be surprisingly effective visually.

Dave Nelson

 

[cowman]

I used caulk and did not put any under the turnouts.  The joiners have held them well and if they need replacing, just slide the joiners and lift.  I am planning to attach feeders to the turnouts on my next layout to add reliability.

As for ballasting, I stay away from the turnout with the majority of ballasting.  I used a textured paint under the turnouts so that it looks like ballast.  Then add a small amount of ballast to the turnout for texture, but it need not give full coverage, as the paint underneath covers your roadbed material.

Good luck,

Richard

[rrebell]

yes but stay way clear of moving parts and sometimes I file the cork down a bit where the throw bar is.

[mbinsewi]

I use caulk for track work, and I did put just a dab under the turnouts.  I've made changes in alignments, and the turnouts come up easy enough, and any remaining caulk comes off the turnout easy enough, for starting over.

As mentioned, just stay away from the moving parts.

Mike.

[selector]

Very light layer of DAP Alex Plus under the tracks, and I never use a fixative under turnouts.  I do ballast the turnout, taking pains to ensure no grains prevent the points rails from moving freely, and I leave the throwbar well covered while I do this.  Later, once the gluing process is finished, I spray the points with water and move them to ensure they aren't binding.  I test frequently during the drying to ensure it never gets sticky.

[doctorwayne]

I put my turnouts down with track nails, and also solder all rail connections. 

Just tonight I disconnected about 9' of track soldered to a turnout, re-aligned the curve that it formed (tightened the radius by about an inch), then re-soldered it to the same turnout.  The track was then ballasted...may or may not remove the nails when the glue dries...

Wayne

[doctorwayne]

selector

...I do ballast the turnout, taking pains to ensure no grains prevent the points rails from moving freely, and I leave the throwbar well covered while I do this. Later, once the gluing process is finished, I spray the points with water and move them to ensure they aren't binding. I test frequently during the drying to ensure it never gets sticky.

I've found that if I apply plastic compatible oil to the tie-tops over which the points move, move the points back and forth a few times to spread the oil, then park them mid-throw (block with a bit of styrene if necessary), there's no issue at all with them becoming stuck. 
As you mention, no ballast in the space where the throwbar moves and no ballast atop the ties, either.  I use diluted white glue, and in the amounts shown in my previous post...never a problem with turnouts sticking.

Wayne

[peahrens]

rrebell

yes but stay way clear of moving parts and sometimes I file the cork down a bit where the throw bar is.

 

Exactly what I did.  

An aside, it's good first to ensure your turnout will be flat (no twist), easily checked with a cheap, round bubble level.   I have a 7-1/2 curved turnout that did not have flat enough cork underneath and caused derailments due to enough twist.  Some shimming cured that but better to have prepped the cork more carefully and checked the flatness before gluing. 

[Pruitt]

To answer the original question - No.

[Capt. Grimek]

I glue them down as I ballast with plastic compatible oil in the points  AND solder the joiners. No drop feeders on the turnouts to the dcc buss. If I have to pull up a turnout later, some pipette drops of alcohol loosen the ballast and release the turnout without damage. De-soldering the joiners takes a bit more care but pretty easy using a braided solder ribbon to suck up the molten puddles.

[selector]

Wayne, I have had sticky throwbars, but truthfully it was more like gritty.  I just got too hasty in spreading the grains of ballast and some ended up in places I ought not to have put it.  Or, I left too much of the stuff on top of the ties, as you mentioned.  Often, a tap with the spreading brush handle or three will get most of the grains to leave the tie tops.  If I am worried that I got too much of my dilute solution near the headblocks and throwbar, I use the water spray to flush out that area.  So far, so good.

-Crandell 

[SeeYou190]

doctorwayne

I've found that if I apply plastic compatible oil to the tie-tops over which the points move, move the points back and forth a few times to spread the oil, then park them mid-throw (block with a bit of styrene if necessary), there's no issue at all with them becoming stuck.

.

I do pretty much the exact same thing.

.

When I ballast my track I spray the whole thing down with "wetted" water, then I apply diluted white glue with a pipette. This gives me complete control on where the adhesive goes.

.

I do not have problems with ballasting turnouts.

.

-Kevin

.

[riogrande5761]

During the initial phases of layout building and track laying, I don't glue any track down, turnouts or otherwise.  I used ME spikes and/or Atlas track nails because I've found I can fasten track down instantly - no drying or setting time - and I've also found through experience that I've had to relay track often in some area's due to a multitude of reasons and it's been very easy to pull out the spikes or nailes and relay.  My last layout didn't get far enough along to ballast the track so I was able to save ALL of it without damage because I used spikes or nails.

Take that for what it's worth; probably not much but it worked for me and I only have myself to please.

[Doughless]

I use caulk on the tips of the three legs of turnouts where there are no moving parts or under track connections.    However, soldering all six joiners on the three legs to the connecting tracks generally secures the turnout well enough.  I use feeders underneath those six joiners so all turnouts tend to be soldered in place and secured by the connecting tracks, and the caulk under the turnout is a bit redundant.

[doctorwayne]

riogrande5761

...I used ME spikes and/or Atlas track nails because I've found I can fasten track down instantly - no drying or setting time - and I've also found through experience that I've had to relay track often in some area's due to a multitude of reasons and it's been very easy to pull out the spikes or nailes and relay....

Same here, and for the same reasons.
 
I've recently installed some track using Central Valley tie strips, and fasten it in place using contact cement.  The only place that I've needed to pull any of it up is to add turnouts, and a little care with a scraper/putty knife does the trick.

I use diluted white glue for ballasting, and if track needs to be moved or removed  later, pulling the nails, then a good soaking with "wet" water, makes the job easy and the track re-useable.

Wayne

[Metro Red Line]

darrel480

I am starting to lay track for a new n scale layout.  I use latex chaulk to lay track. Just wondering if I should try gluing (chalking) down the turnouts?  Thanks

 

 

You can caulk down the turnouts for better stability, but don't run caulk under the whole thing. A dab of caulk under the frogs and a small amount under each end is all you need. Try not to have any caulk whatsoever under the points or any moving parts though.

[BRAKIE]

I use neither caulk nor glue..I use old fashion HO spikes. Ballast glue will help hold the track down.