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Using foam for tabletops...

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  • Member since
    February 2018
  • From: Danbury Freight Yard
  • 459 posts
Using foam for tabletops...
Posted by OldEngineman on Saturday, February 24, 2018 12:28 PM

Hello all...

 

I have questions regarding the use of heavy foam (which I believe comes in 2" and 1" thickness) for table tops.

How is this stuff to work with?

Can it be "cleanly cut", or does it break apart when you try to do so?

Can it hold small screws or tacks?

Can you drill "a clean hole" through it for routing wiring?

If I were to build a frame like the one in the pics (in the last post of this thread):

http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/t/79094.aspx

... how do I attach it to the framework?

Screws from the top?

Or perhaps screws from either side?

Haven't had a layout in 40 years (while I had a career running the big trains).

I'm going to build a flat 4x8 table and start off with something simple (like the Kato "Black River Junction" plan).

If the foam isn't going to work, I'll probably build -two- 4x8 modules (easier to lift) and set them ontop of an L-girder frame. I still have legs I used in the 1970's !

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: west coast
  • 7,667 posts
Posted by rrebell on Tuesday, February 27, 2018 10:24 AM

Foam is great, I use the beaded stuff as it dosn't curl over time, just caulk it to a 1x4 frame. Note, the beaded stuff has to be covered when finished but the product can even be had for free at times. I bought my large peices and all the mountains and stuff were free.

  • Member since
    August 2014
  • 251 posts
Posted by tedtedderson on Tuesday, February 27, 2018 10:41 AM

Skip the screws. I used wood glue to attach 2" pink stuff to painted wood.  I used tacks while laying track to hold curved flex track temporarily while getting it just in the right spot. Tacks hold but very temporarily.  I added ballast around the tacks, glued ballast with matte medium, then removed the tacks when dried. 

Cutting it is "ok" but you have to be careful or it rips and gets jagged.  I used what I believe is called a 5 in 1 painter's tool to cut it. 

I wouldn't trust the screws but maybe others can speak about their experience using them with foam. 

T e d

  • Member since
    May 2010
  • From: SE. WI.
  • 8,253 posts
Posted by mbinsewi on Tuesday, February 27, 2018 10:50 AM

Welcome aboard, OldEngineman.  What locomotives did you opertate?

About using foam, and my experiences, I have a 2" layer under my layout.  I used the rigid stuff, the pink or the blue extruded foam.

OldEngineman
Can it be "cleanly cut", or does it break apart when you try to do so?

You can cut pretty clean, you'll have some crumbs, as can be expected.  I used foam for the scenery too, like hills and cliffs.  I used a serrated knife to do a lot of the carving.

OldEngineman
Can it hold small screws or tacks?

Not really.  Small screws, maybe, but the threads strip real easily.  I did use long deck screws to hold down some pieces, they went through the foam and into the wood.  Tacks just pull right out.

OldEngineman
Can you drill "a clean hole" through it for routing wiring?

Sure, I did for the wiring, it works OK.

As far as frameing spacing, I would use supports every 16" for the 1" foam, but for the 2", you could widen things out alittle.

And for fastening down, I'd use a combination of caulk, as a glue, and long drywall / deck screws, through the foam, and into the framing.  Just be carefull that you don't sink the screw all the way through.  From the top down would hold better than up from the bottom.

Keep us posted on your progress!  For posting pictures, go to the General Discussion forum, and read the "sticky note" for a "how to".  They need to come from a photo hosting site, or a blog.

Mike.

 

  • Member since
    November 2015
  • 723 posts
Posted by UNCLEBUTCH on Tuesday, February 27, 2018 12:29 PM

Foam is God's gift to MRing. Glue it to the frame with plain ole latex caulk, may need to hold down with weights. No need for any screws.

 I have spaned 2in stuff over 24in. without issues.The white beaded stuff is messy to work with, try for the blue or pink. Cut with a sharp anything, stright cuts; just score and snap

.Track is held with pins untill your happy then a ''thin'' bead of caulk or the ballest will keep it there.If you don't use plywood under it, witch is not needed anyway, any sharp pionty thing will give you a hole for wires

.Can be stacked and glued/caulked,carved,and or covered with plaster or drywall mud,takes almost any paint. I use latex,some stuff may eat the foam,try it before you get too far.

I haved used screws to hold some things. Its a very fine line between tight and striped, I had better luck glueing a pieace of plastic to the foam and then screwing to it,to hold ground throws ect.

  • Member since
    March 2017
  • From: Orange County, NY
  • 35 posts
Posted by sktrains on Tuesday, February 27, 2018 8:15 PM
It’s a great way to go, the only difference is i put ½ plywood down first I used the  2in blue extruded stuff and  glued my down with PL foam glue its supper strong and will bond to almost anything just make sure it’s the one for foam or it will melt the foam I also screwed the countersunk the corners down with a drywall screws with a fender washer that I covered with scenery later. the track and roadbed I used good quality latex  caulk
Easy to cut with anything, the finer the blade the smother the cut and less mess, the 1 in stuff you can cut as deep as possible with a sharp razor knife and snap it, or even run it through a table saw which  works great if your making straight cuts
Steve  
  • Member since
    November 2006
  • From: NW Pa Snow-belt.
  • 2,216 posts
Posted by ricktrains4824 on Tuesday, February 27, 2018 10:06 PM

Use latex caulk, and paint (if desired) with latex paint.

Don't use liquid nails to adhere the foam. (Also, Don't drink the water in Mexico.) Don't ask me how I know.

Ricky W.

HO scale Proto-freelancer.

My Railroad rules:

1: It's my railroad, my rules.

2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.

3: Any objections, consult above rules.

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