I have used epoxy (filed down to rail shape) especially where I don't want current to pass, but I wondered if there is something that fills a gap that conducts current. One side of the rail joiner is soldered and I want to leave the other end of the rail joiner unsoldered, conducting electricity, and fill a gap. Thanks for any help on this. Jim
So if I'm understanding this right, you left one side unsoldered to allow for slight movement?
Doesn't the rail joiner give you the flow of current, with out filling the gap?
Mike.
My You Tube
What I've done on previous layouts is solder every other rail joiner, so this allows for expansiona dn contraction. There were feeders to both sections on either side of the unsoldered joiner, so there was no real need to have an absolutely positive method of conducting current around the potentially flakey rail joiner. So that's oen option - just make sure there are feeders to the rails on the unsoldered side. The you could cut through the rail at the joiner and still have power, so it will be reliable with the sliding joiner.
Option 2, do like the real railroads. Joint bars are like the rail joiners used in model railroads and are not a reliable means to pass track power, so if you have some stick rail tracks near you (instead of continuously welded rail), check at the joints - you will see a bond wire connecting the rail on one side of the gap to the other. You can do the same, solder a wire to the rail on each side fo the sliding rail joiner, and this will provide a reliable electrical path even if the joiner fails.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Need something to fill a rail gap
Here is a creative solution I learned from guy with a layout where I used to live.
He used baking soda as a medium and applied liquid CA cement to it, which the powder would soak it up and harden. Perhaps you could put the powder in the gap, apply some CA cemen to it and cut off or file off the excess with hobby knifes and or files.
In the case of rail gaps, I'd suggest blocking the sides with some masking tape, pour the baking soda into the gap, drip in some CA. After it hardens, remove the making tape dam on both sides. Then clean up with hobby knives and/or jeweler files.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
Use a razor saw to cut a joiner down to about 5/16" in length. Slide most of that length over one of the two ends on either side of the gap as seems best. Slide 1/8" nip off an end of rail, filed and trimmed so it will slide easily, into the open end of the joiner up tight against the host rail end. Solder. If you do this properly, you'll still have a gap (if you actually did need one there), but it'll be much more appealing and functional.
yellow_cad....I wondered if there is something that fills a gap that conducts current. One side of the rail joiner is soldered and I want to leave the other end of the rail joiner unsoldered, conducting electricity, and fill a gap....
Well, you could leave the one side unsoldered, but filling the gap with metal will, more-or-less, be equivalent to soldering the joiner, as the filler will prevent any expansion at the joint.
I solder all of my rail joiners, then cut gaps where necessary for electrical control (DC operation). Those gaps are filled with Plastruct grey ABS plastic, ca'ed in place. I've never had issues with track expansion or contraction. The layout is in my unheated/uncooled (but well-insulated) basement.
Wayne
I soldered all of mine, plus added small jumper wires. I have a lot of hidden track, so I was trying to avoid problems.
To me, I thought the OP was asking for something to fill the gap that will also conduct electricity.
I didn't bother filling the rail gaps, as I never thought that they were a problem.
Hello all,
On prototypical railroads a piece of wire is used to transmit current from one rail to the next and allows for expansion/contraction. (As in this photo.)
This has been suggested by another responder to this post.
Not to be facetious but wouldn't that be the rail(s) filling the gap?
I don't understand why you need to fill a gap with conductive material.
What is the purpose of the gap and why not just have the rails but up against each other?
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
jjdamnit Hello all, On prototypical railroads a piece of wire is used to transmit current from one rail to the next and allows for expansion/contraction. (As in this photo.) This has been suggested by another responder to this post. Not to be facetious but wouldn't that be the rail(s) filling the gap? I don't understand why you need to fill a gap with conductive material. What is the purpose of the gap and why not just have the rails but up against each other? Hope this helps.
I also mentioned cutting a joiner to make it shorter, and then sliding a tiny bit of rail onto the little bit sticking out. The original question wasn't clear about the purpose of the gap, even if inadvertently longer than desired. There are gaps to leave room for expansion, there are gaps left because of ooopsies cutting rail to fit, and there are sliding joiners left with a bit of a gap to allow for expansion. If a gap needs to have current routed across it, the wire solution could work very well. If the idea is to close a gap that's over-wide, soldering a small bit of rail into the joiner will also close the gap.
My guess is the OP thinks that any gap looks unprotypical, unsightly and was bad track laying. Too bad I never took any pictures of my buckled track that looked perfect when laid.
My new layout has gaps.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Ah, now I understand!
selector...there are gaps left because of ooopsies cutting rail to fit...
I too have had that "ooopsies" moment fitting track.
Cutting a section of rail that small to fill a gap can be difficult. The problem I experienced was the ricochet effect from that small piece flying into oblivion when cut.
To prevent the "Oh no!" moment I covered the rail and cutting tool with a towel which trapped the minute piece of rail in the towel.
I then used two rail joiners; cutting the ends of each one to make them square, and fitted the small piece of rail between them.
Then I carefully fitted the "rail plug" (for lack of a better term) into the gap.
Depending on the size of the rail section, you can slide the rail joiners back-and-forth to fit the rail plug into position.
I have been successful using this technique on gaps up to 1/2-inch. Gaps larger than that I replaced the offending section cut to the correct size; measure twice, cut once.
Thanks for the clarification and...