I'm basically a cookie-cutter kind of guy, but I find the bulk of my railroad is going to be on flat level table. The main and climb up the mountain will get cork roadbed. Everything else will get 2'x3' 1/4" sheets of cork--the yards and town.
So the question I have is what size plywood should I get. I see the half inch being more rigid and therefore will solve more of the idiosyncrasies of the bench work. On the other hand, the 1/4" should do just fine and work better for the cookie-cutter climbing track--especially at creating vertical easements. It will also save me 20-30 bucks over the half inch.
Still, this might be the place to skimp.
Reply quick, I'm on a battery break and as soon as it's charged I have to get back to work. Just sayin" in case you want me to asnswer a question.
Chip
Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.
1/4" is too thin. I used 1/4" under 2" foam, that was fine, plenty stiff. But 1/4" alone is going to sag too easily. Even 1/2" is pushing it, unless you can get some GOOD 1/2" - ie not from HD, Lowes, or Menards.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Sorry, I should have mentioned I was going to get Birch plywood. It's usually pretty straight and solid. Not much sag.
Then 1/2" should be fine. Even quality birch at 1/4" is going to be too thin
Yeah. I'm just going to have to bite the bullet on this one.
Why not 2in foam ?
UNCLEBUTCH Why not 2in foam ?
I don't think foam works very well with the cookie cutter method that Chip is considering using.
Ed
7j43kI don't think foam works very well with the cookie cutter method that Chip is considering using.
That and the fact 2" foam is not availble here. Going to have to go with 1" for scenery.
SpaceMouseThat and the fact 2" foam is not availble here. Going to have to go with 1" for scenery.
It's weird for us here in the "North", to understand that. It's a common product up here.
Watch and see what local construction projects are using. You might be able to do a little "dumpster diving".
Mike.
My You Tube
mbinsewiWatch and see what local construction projects are using. You might be able to do a little "dumpster diving".
I got all my 2" foam in Pennsylvania that way. But usually I just asked the workers for their scraps. Oh, and it is pink here. Ugh.
I used 5/8" for my cookie cutter layout, but 1/2" will surely do. It will bend readily for nice vertical transitions; e.g., from horizontal to a grade.
The 1/4" seems too thin for my liking, requiring more frequent supports, more prone to flexing when leaning on it during layout work, etc.
I did not buy birch but did buy some nicer (5/8" in my case) plywood than other options such as some (3/4"?) cheaper "project grade" stuff at HD. Mine might be B/C. The differences are wood type, number of plys, etc. Something like birch is costing lots extra for the thin surface veneer, whether birch, oak, etc., and it will get covered in paint, scenery, etc., so I'd say concentate on other aspects more if going beyond nice B/C.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
I used cheapo 1/2" plywood on the "Dream House" layout, and I had problems almost immediately.
.
After that experience I have used nothing but 3/4" hardwood plywood, usually furniture grade. I would suggest to never scrimp on benchwork or subroadbed.
Compromise elsewhere.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Avoid Ply made from yellow pine, that stuff will twist, etc. Fir plywood (I think they call it here in Georgia) stays flat. Other than that, I can't see a benefit for cabinet grade ply. I try to use 3/4" everywhere.
3/4" should be your minimum.
No, Wait! The LION used 1/2" Celotex for 90% of the layout of him. Works Purrfectly. This particular type of Celotex is no longer available, it was discontinued with the advent of fire codes. But I got ten sheets from some ceilings that we replaced.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
My layouts have flat tops and I use only 1/2: AC plywood. Nice finish on the top. This is one area I will not skimp or cheat. Don't forget to paint the plywood to seal it including the sides. I paint the bottom white, then the top a color of my liking, usually a very light gray.
Good luck!
Neal
Chip, you could use the 1/4", but you'll eat up those savings cutting 1X4 or 1X2 milled spruce and using fasteners on the higher number of risers or joists/supports you'll want under it. I use G1S 1/2" ply which is plenty strong with supports every 14" or so. On my first layout, back in 2005 when you and I first corresponded, I used 5/8" GIS, and it was rock solid over 24" spans.
"cheapo" is the key word.
The 'birch' I've seen at Lowes is just a thin birch veneer on ordinary plywood. REAL birch plywood has all plies made of birch and it VERY stable and strong. 1/2 would be plenty strong enough. 1/2 of some of the cheap junk I've seen in the boig box stores isn;t even 1/2 because there are voids all over where parts of a ply are missing. Worthless for laying flat where strength is needed, without a LOT of supports.
Do you plan on putting of your own weight on the RR or just the models? I'm building an HO shelf layout and a 3'x9' N scale and both are framed up using 1"x2" and 1/4 in ply. I then put foam on top of the ply using dap caulk/sealer. It's light and easily portable and plenty sturdy for models. I have a cross brace every 2' from 1"x2" as well.
Over the years in my R/C airplane hobby and other hobbies, I've learned "light is right." Now it has to be strong enough to do the job too. Model railroads are light if you build the benchwork light.
rrinker "cheapo" is the key word. The 'birch' I've seen at Lowes is just a thin birch veneer on ordinary plywood. REAL birch plywood has all plies made of birch and it VERY stable and strong. 1/2 would be plenty strong enough. 1/2 of some of the cheap junk I've seen in the boig box stores isn;t even 1/2 because there are voids all over where parts of a ply are missing. Worthless for laying flat where strength is needed, without a LOT of supports. --Randy
I have used the cheap 1/2" with success on table top layouts. I use it on top of a grid framework with joists on 16" centers. I screw it down on all 4 sides and put a screw in the middle of each joist as well.
But if you can afford it, get the better stuff. Quality birch plywood has 9 plies for 1/2" and 13 plies for 3/4". I have a book shelf I made with 3/4" quality birch plywood. Each shelf is 4 ft long, supported only at the ends. It has never sagged in the 40 years since I made it. And I have stored heavy magazines on it no problem.