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cutting resin

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  • Member since
    January 2018
  • 13 posts
cutting resin
Posted by airtrain on Friday, January 26, 2018 12:10 AM

Hi Everybody,

  Thanks again for all your info on white glue. Now I have another question already. In looking through my "pile of stuff" I  found a set of 25 year old Chooch tunnel portals I would like to use but they are too tall. Can anyone suggest a way of smoothly cutting this material? It seems to be some sort of cast resin, I don't know if it is the same material as is used today. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: west coast
  • 7,667 posts
Posted by rrebell on Monday, January 29, 2018 2:03 PM

Modify chooch loads all the time, same material. I use a fine hobby saw, no issues.

  • Member since
    May 2004
  • 7,500 posts
Posted by 7j43k on Monday, January 29, 2018 2:12 PM

Or maybe a hacksaw.  Should cut much faster.  And you're not all that concerned with the finish of the cut, being on the bottom and covered with "dirt".

 

Ed

  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: Canada, eh?
  • 13,375 posts
Posted by doctorwayne on Monday, January 29, 2018 4:18 PM

I'm with Ed on this one.  The hacksaw will be faster, and if the material dulls the blade, a replacement blade will be cheaper.

Wayne

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: Chi-Town
  • 7,712 posts
Posted by zstripe on Monday, January 29, 2018 4:27 PM

I've had to cut down quite a few of the tunnel portals, even cutting them at the center to put two halfs together, I too tried a hacksaw blade.....But....I found a crosscut wood saw (like a Xacto wood saw) to be much faster and easier. The blade will cut a tiny bit wider, but the cut goes faster because the flutes in the blade Do Not collect dust/powder/heat from friction and glog up, like a fine blade or hacksaw will. Try it.....You will see what I mean!

BTW: One more little tip I found over the yrs. Should you have to cut a wide section and the blade/saw binds a lot during cutting, take a regular bar of soap and run the saw blade teeth through the bar of soap, that will eliminate the binding with an easier cut. The lanolin/animal fat will lubricate the teeth...just remember to wash off the soap on the material.....but to be honest, I never have!

You could also use the bar soap trick on sticking/binding wooden doors and double hung windows.....works like a charm.

Take Care! Big Smile

Frank

 

  • Member since
    January 2017
  • From: Southern Florida Gulf Coast
  • 18,255 posts
Posted by SeeYou190 on Monday, January 29, 2018 7:33 PM

A 12-14 TPI hacksaw blade works wonderfully well. Do not put down much pressure, and go slowly.

.

Wear a dust mask whenever you are working with resin castings.

.

-Kevin

.

Living the dream.

  • Member since
    January 2018
  • 13 posts
Posted by airtrain on Tuesday, January 30, 2018 12:18 AM

Thanks for all the suggestions. For some reason it took four days from from the time I submited the question until it was actually posted. Not being one to wait around I decided to forge ahead. I cut the pieces with a Dremel with a metal cutting blade. It did a wonderful job but the dust was  terrible. Won't be doing that again! Thanks again for the input.

  • Member since
    March 2002
  • From: Milwaukee WI (Fox Point)
  • 11,439 posts
Posted by dknelson on Tuesday, January 30, 2018 10:47 AM

I too used a Dremel (reinforced cutting disc) and liked the clean cut, cleaner than I got with a hack saw or razor saw.  I did it outside due not just to the dust but the rather strong odor.  As I always do when using a Dremel tool I wear eye protection because the blades can shatter and the resin can send chips flying.  

Dave Nelson

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