The only place I've ever seen the wire on top in foam groove was on a YouTube video. Don't remember which one. But: whatever you use to "cover" the wire DOES NOT have to be permanent. Remember, scenery is more forgiving and more easily fixed.
cuyama Most folks put a front edge on their layouts (we call it fascia) to hide the wiring from normal view. If you choose some sort of cover-up, I wouldn’t glue it in place -- there may be a time you'll need to access the wiring to trouble-shoot or to modify.
Most folks put a front edge on their layouts (we call it fascia) to hide the wiring from normal view.
If you choose some sort of cover-up, I wouldn’t glue it in place -- there may be a time you'll need to access the wiring to trouble-shoot or to modify.
+1
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
An idea not mentioned is: Use foam and cut a groove in it and lay wire on top of the layout. You could hide this with scenery techniques. That avoids wires under the layout. OTOH if you have already built some of the layout on wood. I would consider trying to lay the wires on top, simply covered by scenery or such. This has not been tried nor mentioned. And I just thought I'd throw it out for thought. And not sure how feasible it is.
Thank you for responding to my question reguarding hiding wiring on a shelf layout.
I plan to look at wire mold, and useage of a fascia.
Greg
Thanks UNCLEBUTCH
I will take a look at Home Depot
Thanks for responding to my inquirery of hiding wiring on a shelf layout.
The wire mold sounds like a good route to go. Others are suggesting using a facia as well.
Take a look at how I'm building my layout with metal brackets as well as 1"x3" frames and 1/2" AC plywood. My layout not's going to move...PERIOD!
http://atlanticpacificrailroad.blogspot.com/2018/01/florida-layout-update.html
railandsailBut I don't have much doubt it will NOT sag between my 24" stud/bracket supports. And I believe it will be quite strong at its cantilivered edges.
You do what you want Brian, but I can't imagine building a shelf layout with just plywood on top of shelf brackets. At the very least, I would have a 1"x4" as a facia, to support the edge of the plywood, helping to keep the plywood straight. Do yourself a favor and run the top exposed grain of the plywood the length ways on your shelves, and keep your brackets on 16" centers.
I agree with Wayne. Make the shelf a rigid structure, and support the structure.
Mike.
My You Tube
Well, Brian, I would think that 3/4" plywood would be more resistant to sagging than the usual coated-sawdust products typically used for shelving, but it still requires support. And, no, our trains won't cause it to sag unduly, but not properly supported, many wood-based products will sag, over time, from their own weight.
I suppose part of my concern stems from the term "shelf layout" being used literally: yeah, if you've got a situation where you want to run some trains and your space and other resources are limited, a shelf may be a viable temporary solution.
To me, however, "shelf layout" suggests a wall-mounted layout capable of functioning the same as any layout supported by legs or even supported from above by cables. Is it that onerous to include features that would simplify wiring, as asked by the O.P., or facilitate methods to make things look more aesthetically pleasing, like fascia, or that would allow better scenery possibilities?If a simple shelf does the trick, support it well and have fun. If you want something a little more, then a little more effort and a little more money is required. Merely my take on the original query.
By the way, gstrains55, to the MR forums.
Wayne
doctorwayne Unless you're planning to put support brackets every 16" (normal stud spacing), most shelving material, even 3/4" plywood, will sag between supports. I'd use 1"x2" pine to create a grid framework to support the shelf material, which would allow you to decrease the number of brackets fastened to the wall for supporting the layout. Wayne
Unless you're planning to put support brackets every 16" (normal stud spacing), most shelving material, even 3/4" plywood, will sag between supports. I'd use 1"x2" pine to create a grid framework to support the shelf material, which would allow you to decrease the number of brackets fastened to the wall for supporting the layout.
Do you really think good 3/4" ply will sag under our HO trains? I was going to utilize 1/2" with lots of good metal brackets under it, rather than wood framing.
Just recently I found some 7-layer real nice 3/4" plywood that I will likely use instead. I will probably seal it with some paint for temperature/humidity resistance. But I don't have much doubt it will NOT sag between my 24" stud/bracket supports. And I believe it will be quite strong at its cantilivered edges.
Brian
My Layout Plan
Interesting new Plan Consideration
This grid will also give you something to which a fascia can be attached - 1/8" or 1/4" Masonite works well and is cheap. Assuming that the shelf isn't mounted too high on the wall, even if you make the fascia only 4" deep, that'll be enough to hide wires fastened to the underside of the framework.
Another choice would be to build the framework from 1"x4" pine, then drill the crossmembers so that the wiring can be routed through them, similar to the way wires in a house run through the floor joists.
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Trimming out the shelf with something like a piece of moulding will give it a finished appearance, and nearly alleviate the need to hide the wiring depending on how high you intend to mount it.
Use wire clips or similar fasteners to hold the wires up. There are also self adhesive products that could be used that have a hole in them to pass a zip tie through.
One thing to keep in mind is that no matter what you do, mixing different voltages and current types in the same raceway is a bad idea. Keep your DC accessories, AC track bus (assuming DCC), and 110VAC wiring separated.
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The conduit they are talking about is called wire mold. There are different styles of it. Some that you can easily open a cover and some that you have to remove the whole thing. You can find it a Home Depot or other hardware stores or electronic stores. There are also other ways to hide it behind the scenery. Or depending on your framing you could have a wood or plastic panel that attaches to the bottom of your framing to cover it.
I guess it kind of depends on how high your layout is, and what is actually visible, without croutching down, or getting your knees.
What Unclebutch suggest would work, it's a type of conduit, to hide surface mounted wiring. Maybe a "facia" on the front face of your shelf such as a 1"x4" or 1"x6" would be sufficient to hide everything, along with a place to install the surface mounted conduit and wire.
The bus could be along the backside of the facia, and strips of the surface conduit, extending out from the buse conduit, could hide the feeders.
Another concept could be designing the shelf so you could attach a removable bottom to access the wiring.
I would think whatever you come up with, you'd want something that would give you access, when needed. I think what you suggest about the PVC moulding, seems like you may not be able to access the wiring once the moulding is in place.
I'm not sure what its called, but they make a channel with a cover for surface wireing.
the bottom part gets scewed down,and the top just snaps on,came in different sizes. I would think any of the home depot type stores would carry it or something like it.
I whould welcome comments on how to hide track buss and feeder wires on a wall mounted shelf layout,such that the wiring is not visible to the viewer.
I have viewed videos and not seen this addressed
I have considered glueing PVC 1/8"x 1"x 1 1/8" corner moulding to the underside of the shelving,to hide wiring, but this may not be the best option