floridaflyer Elmers also makes a white glue called Elmers school glue. Recommend that you do not use that.
Elmers also makes a white glue called Elmers school glue. Recommend that you do not use that.
I second this. I tried it once, but it doesn't dilute and thin out like regular Elmer's white glue (or interior yellow glue). It gets stringy and gel-y, like tapioca.
Robert
LINK to SNSR Blog
rrinkerI learned a long time ago,t he drop of dish soap and water to dilute either glue or matte medium, or to use as a wetting agent prior to applying the glue, does not work here. The water is too hard.
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We have legendarily hard water here. I will not get a softener. I hate slimey water!
Anyway, I thin my glue with distilled water and use Kodak Photo-Flo 200 as a wetting agent. Distilled water is only 59 cents a gallon. Well worth it.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
doctorwayne The last bottle of white glue which I purchased was a generic brand from either Home Depot or Lowes, or from Walmart - sixteen bucks for a gallon. The last time I bought matte medium, many years ago, it was about $12.00 for 8oz. The performance of either for scenic work is similar with regards to holding power, but, as mentioned, matte medium is more difficult to "undo". I noticed absolutely no difference in the sound deadening qualities. I've also taken up ballasted track and turnouts in several places, and all track components were completely re-useable. I've already gone through almost three gallons of white glue on this layout, and no complaints about any brand I've used. Wayne
The last bottle of white glue which I purchased was a generic brand from either Home Depot or Lowes, or from Walmart - sixteen bucks for a gallon. The last time I bought matte medium, many years ago, it was about $12.00 for 8oz. The performance of either for scenic work is similar with regards to holding power, but, as mentioned, matte medium is more difficult to "undo". I noticed absolutely no difference in the sound deadening qualities. I've also taken up ballasted track and turnouts in several places, and all track components were completely re-useable.
I've already gone through almost three gallons of white glue on this layout, and no complaints about any brand I've used.
Wayne
I did the same experiment on the sections I ballasted on my last layout. There was no detectable difference going from the track with the ballast secured by plain old Elmer's white glue diluted with alcohol, and the section I did with dilute matte medium.
I learned a long time ago,t he drop of dish soap and water to dilute either glue or matte medium, or to use as a wetting agent prior to applying the glue, does not work here. The water is too hard. I spray on 70% isopropyl as the wetting agent and I dilute the glue with 70% isopropyl as well. As I drip it on, it truly just disappears into the ballast and there is never any puddling. It might work if I went to the store and bought jugs of distilled water, but 70% alcohol isn't expensive. Something I noticed when excess dried int he bottom of the cup I mixed it in - 70% and white glue never seems to dry solid like a blob of white glue, it stays kind of rubbery. Probably a reaction of the PVA with the alcohol. ANd also why there's no sound difference compared to matte medium - the alcohol/glue is less than rock hard just like the matte medium.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
floridaflyerElmers also makes a white glue called Elmers school glue. Recommend that you do not use that.
Also avoid Elmer's all purpose clear glue.
I was pretty much sold on Elmer's Glue All until the words "NEW STRONGER FORMULA" showed up on the bottles about a year ago.
These bottles seperate if you do not use them right away with a thin, milky seperation at the top. I cannot seem to get them to mix back together again. This has been a problem with 4 ounce bottles through 1 gallon jugs.
I believe I will be switching to Aleen's Matt Mod Podge for scenery work.
I wouldn;t say underutilized, since white glue is used for pretty much ALL scenery work. But maybe it's gotten drilled in to peoples' heads that white glue is for scenery, not for the models. But you're right, there are many other palces white glue makes sense. Just about anything you want to stay together and not fall apart yet might want to go back and change is a good candidate for white glue. Even surfaces it doesn't really bond well with - it will still keep things in place against accidently seperation but if you deliberately attempt to remove the object, it will pop right off with no damage to either surface.
White glue is the most underutilized glue in this hobby, and CA glue is the most overutilized. It seems to me that the vast majority of modelers use CA every time they need things stuck together, no matter how permanent or damaging the union may be. I see them gluing passengers into car seats with CA, parts onto locos with CA, and on and on, and on. CA glue leaves a residue that cannot be easily undone. Glue those parts with craft glue or white glue. If need be, they can be removed with no damage to anything with just a little water. Glue plastic to plastic with a glue that will weld the parts together. The resulting joint will be stronger than if CA was used. Using the appropriate glue will result in better modeling.
Modeling the Baltimore waterfront in HO scale
Pretty much all white glue is the same, but I stick with Elmer's. Craft stores and home improvement stores have it in gallon jugs, cheaper than buying the small bottles.
This is a case of traditional vs new ways and both have a point. The real anwser is what are you trying to do and how do you plan to do it. Example: ballasting, traditonal is deluted white glue, vs matt medium. White glue is cheap, holds well but is more water soluable which means it is easier to salvage track but may change color over time and can have more of a sheen to it. Matt medium, more expencive, holds well but is less water soluable and won't discolor and unless you soak it for a long time things like salvaging track is harder (but can be done by soaking it). It is an artist material and is ment to be longtime stable and no shine. Now because of the different formulas matt medium is only about 20% more expencive and but harder to screw up.
Welcome to the Forum!
Folks here know just about anything related to scale railroading, so don't be leery of asking questions.
I prefer using a mix of white glue, water, and a dab of dish soap or alcohol for scenery applications. Elmers or the like works just great. There is no need for anything more expensive than that.
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
Hi everyone. I am new to this forum and returning to the hobby after 25 years away. I am just starting on the scenery aspect and everything I read tells me to use white glue in one way or another. My question is, is therea difference in these products or is anything that says white glue good to go? Any help you can give would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your help