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Zip texturing

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  • Member since
    October, 2017
  • 92 posts
Zip texturing
Posted by Andy110675 on Sunday, January 07, 2018 11:38 AM

Hi all what are your thoughts on zip texturing.I have read a few articles including this 0ne 

https://issuu.com/mr-hobbyist/docs/mrh-2010-sep-oct-ol?viewMode=presentation

 

starts on 68-69 onwards.I have looked up a site in the uk for concrete pigments 

https://www.cemcraft.com/search?q=concrete+pigment+suppliers+uk&page=2                                                                                                                            just wanting your thoughts on this and wheather or not its worth the work.

 

 

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Posted by rrebell on Sunday, January 07, 2018 11:45 AM

Worked great, dis a 30x15 layout that way, did mine a bit different way. Wet the ground, used a super soft brush to dab on the powder, then misted the powder till damp. His formulas for dirt color are great too. Had a problem once and discovered it was me as I was working on plaster cloth that had been down for a long time, didn't wet it enough.

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Posted by Andy110675 on Sunday, January 07, 2018 11:47 AM

Thanks for that i thought it looked good, supprised that this process has been around since the 60s when painted sawdust was used as ground cover i will give it ago.

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Posted by HO-Velo on Sunday, January 07, 2018 1:08 PM

I also gave Joe Fugate's method of zip texturing a couple tries.  Looked good but couldn't get the tempera paint/plaster mixture to stick properly.  Figured my first failure was due to not enough wetting of the scenery base and applied powder mixture, but second attempt with more wetting also failed.

Maybe my failures were due to using Scultamold for the scenery base, or something to do with the latex paint?  After reviewing Joe's technique it's more likely that I applied the powder mixture too heavily.

It was Samuel Smiles who said; "We often discover what will do, by finding out what will not do."

Happy scenery modeling and Regards,  Peter    

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Posted by PennCentral99 on Sunday, January 07, 2018 2:12 PM

As I was reading the article in the link you provided, it reminded me of other articles I've read and videos I've watched about using grout for dirt/ground cover. The application process is very similar, you may want to explore grout as another material.

Terry

Inspired by Addiction

See more on my YouTube Channel

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Posted by UNCLEBUTCH on Sunday, January 07, 2018 3:47 PM

I use whatever earth tone paint I can find thats cheap. Get my dirt from the garden,driveway,or field across the road. Let it dry. run thru a couple screens. Sprinkle on the wet paint, let dry.Looks to me like same results. Only cost is paint

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Posted by Andy110675 on Monday, January 08, 2018 2:54 AM

im going to try a small section on a piece of wood first and see how it goes.The one im using is for concrete screeds morter and rendering so i will give it a try and let you know the steps i take.

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Posted by Medina1128 on Monday, January 08, 2018 3:58 AM

I wet an area with a spray bottle, then sift dry plaster on while wet, making sure the water wicks its way through the plaster. When it's almost completely set up, I spray it again. Let it dry a couple of days, and it will be hard enough to paint or stain. 

HINT: Mask off any area you don't want plaster sifted on, i.e. track, completed scenery, buildings, etc.

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Posted by Andy110675 on Monday, January 08, 2018 8:09 AM

cheers Marlon.I will try the zip method and see how it goes.

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Posted by wjstix on Monday, January 08, 2018 12:19 PM

I used two shades of sanded grout, I think it turned out well.

http://cs.trains.com/mrr/m/mrr-layouts/2288403.aspx

 

Stix
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Posted by mbinsewi on Monday, January 08, 2018 12:36 PM

It looks good, Stix.  If I did this right.

http://cs.trains.com/mrr/m/mrr-layouts/2288403.aspx

Mike.

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Posted by rrebell on Monday, January 08, 2018 1:55 PM

HO-Velo

I also gave Joe Fugate's method of zip texturing a couple tries.  Looked good but couldn't get the tempera paint/plaster mixture to stick properly.  Figured my first failure was due to not enough wetting of the scenery base and applied powder mixture, but second attempt with more wetting also failed.

Maybe my failures were due to using Scultamold for the scenery base, or something to do with the latex paint?  After reviewing Joe's technique it's more likely that I applied the powder mixture too heavily.

It was Samuel Smiles who said; "We often discover what will do, by finding out what will not do."

Happy scenery modeling and Regards,  Peter    

 

Don't remember paint as part of the process. I even used zip texturing on bare plywood with fantastic results. Whatever the base stuff is, it has to be permiable and you have to get it really wet as the plaster will immedialy wick moisture away, then the final spray so you don't have any lose stuff. It all has to be done in short order but is very easy to do. So if you painted the surface first and tried to zip over it, chances are you will fail. Also of note it is very hard to get the surface too wet on the first weting but you have to be very careful on the sealing weting getting it just wet enough to change color over the area.

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Posted by HO-Velo on Monday, January 08, 2018 7:36 PM

rrebell
paint as part of the process.

rrebell,  Thanks for the tips.  I reviewed Joe's zip texture vid. again and he does indeed cover his scenery base with a brushed on coat of latex paint mixed 1:1 with water before applying the tempera/plaster mix.  Though the vid. doesn't say so it appears he allowed the paint to dry before misting it with water.

Thanks again & regards,  Peter    

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