Tortoise add before or after

[Anonymous]

Hello Everyone,

I'm using code 80 Peco Flex and Peco Turnouts (N Gauge) on my layout. The question I have is can I install the tortoise switch machines after all the track is layed or do I need to do it before everything is nailed down.
If I can do this after the track is layed are there any steps I need to follow now in order to prepare for this.
Thank You everyone for your time with question.
HAPPY HOLIDAYS TO ALL!!!!

Louie

[michealfarley]

You really need to plan the holes underneath the throwbars and drill them BEFORE you install the turnouts, especially if you are using foam as a track base and gluing the track to the foam. Put the turnout in with just the rail joiners and determine where your hole should be. With N-scale, drilll a 1/4" hole directly underneath the center of the switchpoint. Follow the directions in the box and mount the machine, then install your turnout with the actuating wire passing through the throwbar of the turnout.

I'm currently installing Tortoise machines on my friends completed layout and it is a royal pain. Put them in right away.

[rrinker]

Yes, you CAn do it after, and YES it is a HUGE pain. And an even bigger pain if you slip up and wreck an installed turnout. If you have the choice, do it BEFORE. If you are using foam, you can mount them from the top, which is working out REALLY well for me so far. This site is where I got the idea: http://www.pbase.com/tracktime/norcalf.

If you have to do it after, here's a trick, it hink it was in MR. Drill DOWN from the top with a small drill that fits through the hole in the throwbar. Use that as a guide to drill the proper size hole up from the bottom, but use a depth stop on the drill bit so you don't drill right through the track. Like I said, a BIG pain if you slip up at this step.

--Randy

[budeveryday]

Hi

[rrinker]

Hi. One too MANY Buds today? [:D]

[TBat55]

Walthers sells a Tortoise drill guide/template. It's a small piece of hardboard with 4 holes where the Tortoise screws go and a larger hole where the throwbar is. Drill the 1/4" hole from above as mentioned and leave the drill bit in the hole. From below, slip the template over the drill bit. Mark the 4 holes then mount the machine. Getting these 4 screws in is the painful part for me.

[Anonymous]

I read here that someone used a hot glue gun to mount the Tortoise machine. Since I own one, I used it to mount my first-ever Tortoise last night, and I'm happy to report it works like a charm! I used the template from the Tortoise pack cut out and mounted on a piece of .020" styrene to mark the 4 screw holes for alignment, put some hot glue on top of the machine, and stuck it to the bottom of the roadbed. The glue stays pliable just long enough for fine adjustments, and the Tortoise is forgiving enough that being mounted slightly off doesn't really impair it. Just to be sure I used .032" wire instead of the .025" wire that comes with it to get a better "push".

I checked it this morning, and the machine is solidly in place and not showing any sign of moving or coming loose.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by rrinker

Yes, you CAn do it after, and YES it is a HUGE pain. And an even bigger pain if you slip up and wreck an installed turnout. If you have the choice, do it BEFORE. If you are using foam, you can mount them from the top, which is working out REALLY well for me so far. This site is where I got the idea: http://www.pbase.com/tracktime/norcalf.

If you have to do it after, here's a trick, it hink it was in MR. Drill DOWN from the top with a small drill that fits through the hole in the throwbar. Use that as a guide to drill the proper size hole up from the bottom, but use a depth stop on the drill bit so you don't drill right through the track. Like I said, a BIG pain if you slip up at this step.

--Randy

A couple of questions. Can you use styrene instead of the PC board and can this method be used with Peco switch machnies?

Or, if not, how is the best way to mount Peco switch machines when using 2" foam?:

Thanks in advance for your help.

[SteelMonsters]

You can use either. PC board is somewhat easier to use in this case.

Tortoises are very reliable and very rarely fail. The wiring is still accessable in case of changes or wire failure. Peco's switch machine, like any other twin coil machine has the potential to burn out and require replacement.. While you could install in like Randy installed the tortoises, I think it would be better to install it so the machine can be swiched out in case of failure more easily. Think about how much space you are going to need for your hands to get up in there and replace it. The alternative is to rip the track out in case of replacement.

http://www.internettrains.com/800-6012.html
Tortoise 12 packs there are $12.75/tortoise delivered, the more you by, the price approches $12.08/tortoise.


Now for my speil on what I used and why:
I used to use Atlas switch machines including undertable design. I've got two words for them, Never Again. Tortoises may be more expensive, but if I'm going to use a switch machine it's going to be a tortoise.

I prefer using hand throws for everything but hard to reach areas, yards, crossovers, and passing sidings which I use Tortoises. I hear that it is cheaper to buy a tortoise and wire it up to C/MRI than hook up a twin coil machine to it.
I've been looking at signaling for a while now. C/MRI is the cheapest low hassle system I've seen. As low as $1 per I/O line if you assemble the circiut boards yourself or $2 for complete boards that are also fully tested. If I'm going to do singnaling, I might as well throw in the turnouts into the system.

[rrinker]

You certainly could use styrene sheet, the perf board is easier to snap (it snaps along the holes fairly neatly), sheet styrene is probably a bit cheaper. The original version of this, where I got the idea from, used copper clad PC board - I'm not sure why, but that's a rather costly option, plus drilling and tapping holes for the mounting screws would be the most difficult.
Peco machines clip right ont he bottom of the turnouts, there's no need for a styrene/perf board/whatever mounting sheet.
Removal is easy - I do NOT glue down my turnouts, so all I have to do is slide back the rail joiners and lift out the turnout. With a Peco, that would lift the machine out as well, I will have to pu***hem out from the bottom. Keep in mind my normal orientation of the Tortoise has the bulk of the machine under the turnout, not sticking out under the adjacent track, except in one or two cases where I had to do that to clear some benchwork framework. Those would be a bit more difficult to remove, but witht he track being glued on with latex caulk, it's a simple matter to pry some up without damage and remove whatever is necessary. Then again, I've never heard of a Tortoise failing, and the club I used to belong to had hundreds of them in operation. I even have one that I have completely aused, disassembled it many times, manually moved it back and forth so hard I've slipped the gears, all sorts of things you would NEVER EVER do to one of these things, yet it still works like a champ.

--Randy

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the awesome information especially the site info posted by RRINKER... AWESOME info. Can't remember the exact page, but this months Model Railroader has an add listing Tortoise swith machines right at $10.95 I believe. Again thanks for the info.

Dave

[rvanparys]

Ebay has Tortise sm for around $11 ea but with free shipping when you buy in lots.
Roger