railandsail, the layout is mainly 21' x 8' duckunder attached to 2 walls, kind of "L" shaped because the narrow wall end is 10.5' x 2.5' then goes to 8' for the rest of the 18.5'. The inside walk around area is 2' x 14' and above that is my track lighting, 3 tracks, 4 bulbs each. With 12 bulbs, it covers the the entire layout.But, I think I should have installed a dimmer for each track. I have pictures in my phone and am still trying to learn how to display them on this sight.
railandsailAren't the LED's somewhat 'directional' in their lighting,...such that I would have to be concerned with their locations mounted approx 5 ft over the top deck?
Yes, they are. You aim the light by rotating the lighting strip so that it falls in the desired direction and holding it there.
Your roof looks to be sloping both direction from the center and I only saw a mocked-up second deck toward the sides, where there was much less clearance. In general, with LED strip lighting, you add more runs closer together if you need more intensity. But if a second deck will be built in the middle and that's the 5' distance that needs covered, then that might be a good place to consider track lighting on either side of the fan/light to illuminate it. Another option is to build a framework to attach the light strips to and hold them at a lower level, but then you have to figure out whether to keep the fan/light or not?
Re valances with strip lighting, I mostly do without, but you could get away with narrow ones (2" or 3") cut from black foam core board. Aiming the strip light correctly usually solves the same issue where a valance might be needed.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
railandsail willy6 I installed track lighting in my 12' x 24' train shed that has 12 bulb outlets. I aimed and moved them to cover the entire layout. At first I used basic incandescent light bulbs and didn't like the effects when dimming. Then I tried basic PAR30 flood lights and they gave a good dusk effect when dimming. The other day I tried 4 LED PAR30's on one section of the layout. They were a lot brighter than my previous lights and was a whiter light that kind of created a full moon effect on the layout when dimmed. I like the LED better but not the cost. I have 80 amp service with 4 twenty amp breakers and have one breaker dedicated to interior lighting. Are you saying you lite your entire layout with only 12 'bulbs' (LED bulbs)?, Is your track running down the center of your layout? Do you have any photos?
willy6 I installed track lighting in my 12' x 24' train shed that has 12 bulb outlets. I aimed and moved them to cover the entire layout. At first I used basic incandescent light bulbs and didn't like the effects when dimming. Then I tried basic PAR30 flood lights and they gave a good dusk effect when dimming. The other day I tried 4 LED PAR30's on one section of the layout. They were a lot brighter than my previous lights and was a whiter light that kind of created a full moon effect on the layout when dimmed. I like the LED better but not the cost. I have 80 amp service with 4 twenty amp breakers and have one breaker dedicated to interior lighting.
I installed track lighting in my 12' x 24' train shed that has 12 bulb outlets. I aimed and moved them to cover the entire layout. At first I used basic incandescent light bulbs and didn't like the effects when dimming. Then I tried basic PAR30 flood lights and they gave a good dusk effect when dimming. The other day I tried 4 LED PAR30's on one section of the layout. They were a lot brighter than my previous lights and was a whiter light that kind of created a full moon effect on the layout when dimmed. I like the LED better but not the cost. I have 80 amp service with 4 twenty amp breakers and have one breaker dedicated to interior lighting.
Are you saying you lite your entire layout with only 12 'bulbs' (LED bulbs)?, Is your track running down the center of your layout?
Do you have any photos?
Brian
My Layout Plan
Interesting new Plan Consideration
On the subject of a valance, not needed with track lighting if you position them correctly, remember you can put alot of them up and add or move them as things change, even take down and reinstall in a new location if needed, took all mine with me in my move even though it will use half the lights.
On the subject of a valance, not needed with track lighting if you position them correctly, remember you can put alot of them up and add or move them as things change, even take down and reinstall in a new location if needed, took all mine with me in my move even though it will use half the lights
richhotrain I have been thinking of replacing my fluorescent tube fixtures with LED lighting. Thought about track lighting, but I keep reading where the connections between track sections are unreliable. I have also thought about linkable LED shop lights, but they all seem to come with expensive Cool White LED tubes, whereas I would think that Warm White would be much more suitable for a layout. Another option is LED recessed can lights, but those are a real pain to install, especially since up here in the Chicagto area, where conduit is required and romex is prohibited. Rich
I have been thinking of replacing my fluorescent tube fixtures with LED lighting.
Thought about track lighting, but I keep reading where the connections between track sections are unreliable.
I have also thought about linkable LED shop lights, but they all seem to come with expensive Cool White LED tubes, whereas I would think that Warm White would be much more suitable for a layout.
Another option is LED recessed can lights, but those are a real pain to install, especially since up here in the Chicagto area, where conduit is required and romex is prohibited.
Rich
Since my train room is over 15 years old now, it is still equipped with incandescent lights. I installed dimmers for all of them, like I have in most of the rest of my house.
I like the ability to control the brightness of the room. It gives me the opportunity to run my trains at night and appreciate the beams of headlights as locomotives sweep around the curves, and the effort I've put into illuminating buildings with detailed interiors. At the same time, I can have full brightness for working on the layout.
You can get dimmable systems these days, but you have to be careful in selecting them as the bulbs and dimmers must be properly matched.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
railandsail But I would really like to determine my needs for wiring up whatever lighting I will eventually use, and get it installed before I close up that center portion of the 'rafters'. The LED strip lighting would be realitively easy to 'hang', .....and I think easy to wire up,...probably easier than fluorescent type fixtures?Aren't the LED's somewhat 'directional' in their lighting,...such that I would have to be concerned with their locations mounted approx 5 ft over the top deck? Also it is not as though I am building this layout inside a home, and thus being concernned about 'home like appearances' such as track lighting, recessed lighting, etc.. This is just a train "shed'.
But I would really like to determine my needs for wiring up whatever lighting I will eventually use, and get it installed before I close up that center portion of the 'rafters'. The LED strip lighting would be realitively easy to 'hang', .....and I think easy to wire up,...probably easier than fluorescent type fixtures?Aren't the LED's somewhat 'directional' in their lighting,...such that I would have to be concerned with their locations mounted approx 5 ft over the top deck?
Also it is not as though I am building this layout inside a home, and thus being concernned about 'home like appearances' such as track lighting, recessed lighting, etc..
This is just a train "shed'.
LED lighting is becoming very popular. I see fixtures in the shape of tubes, so the light cascades just like the flourescent stuff.
- Douglas
When thinking about lighting, I always want the lights to be between me and the train so the visible side of the train is lit, yet my noggin doesn't create shadows.
I would normally want a valance running parallel with the benchwork, but two inches farther out from the wall. If the layout shelf is 18 inches deep then I want the valance to be 20 inches deep, so the light comes from the correct angle.
I think your layout is compact enough that lights running down the center should be fine.
I'm not sure about the lower deck, not knowing the depth of the shelves or how much space there is between the decks.
mlehman Brian, Your low overhead and relative lack of insulation (yes, I see some, but this is still a steel building) suggests that LED strip lighting may be what works best for you. It' takes up very little space compared to track lighting, which usually hangs down 4" to 6" from where t's mounted. LED strip lights are even thinner than a tube-type fixture (~2") since they can be surface mounted and are maybe 0.25" tall. Heat can be a big issue and LEDs put out virtually none. Plus, LED strip lights can usually be surface hung on the ceiling without the need for a contractor, permit, or code inspection by the property owner or resident. LED strip lights can also be repositioned easily if the initial install needs adjustment.
Brian,
Your low overhead and relative lack of insulation (yes, I see some, but this is still a steel building) suggests that LED strip lighting may be what works best for you. It' takes up very little space compared to track lighting, which usually hangs down 4" to 6" from where t's mounted. LED strip lights are even thinner than a tube-type fixture (~2") since they can be surface mounted and are maybe 0.25" tall. Heat can be a big issue and LEDs put out virtually none.
Plus, LED strip lights can usually be surface hung on the ceiling without the need for a contractor, permit, or code inspection by the property owner or resident. LED strip lights can also be repositioned easily if the initial install needs adjustment.
I believe that idea of strip lighting on the ceiling was an idea I intially considered, and now that I rethink it, is one I should reconsider.It was only recently as I installed the masonite sheets over the interior insulation that I realized how dark it was going to be inside the shed until I got it painted a lighter color and installed some sort of lighting to use during 'benchwork' construction, etc. Perhaps I should just install some surplus fluorescent tube lights as a temp solution until I decide on a more permenant solution? But I would really like to determine my needs for wiring up whatever lighting I will eventually use, and get it installed before I close up that center portion of the 'rafters'. The LED strip lighting would be realitively easy to 'hang', .....and I think easy to wire up,...probably easier than fluorescent type fixtures?Aren't the LED's somewhat 'directional' in their lighting,...such that I would have to be concerned with their locations mounted approx 5 ft over the top deck?
Alton Junction
My favorite is track lighting, get the tracks from your local big box store and the cans online for cheap by buying compatable but defunct companys of which there are many. Bought a room full of brass color ones for less than $2 a peice, new in the box. Then you can just screw in an LED light, can be had off e-bay for less than $2.
I believe I need a couple of LED tube lights for my 'train shed' (12x16) double deck layout, but I am totally a novice at this LED lighting subject.
I'm pretty sure I will make use of LED strip lighting to light the lower shelf/decks (underside of upper deck), ...but I was unsure what to do about the upper deck lighting? Perhaps just ceiling lights like old florescent ones, but newer LED versions. Perhaps a row of single/dual tube fixtures (LED ones) down the center of the room, or two rows of fixtures down the ceiling at either side of center.Whats the latest in 'LED tubes', and minimial fixture size, and best pricing???