I am building a little dynamite shed for my ho mine structure. I am using Bar Mills wood shingles. I understand how to apply the shingles in rows going up each of the two sies of the roof. But when you get to the ridge line at the top, what is a realistic way to finish off the roof? Would there be metal flashing? Need help!
Thanks
wdcrvr
Google is your friend here, just search for wood shingle roof ridge, and see how the real roofs are done.
There usually is a metal cap over the ridge, and nails with neoprene or rubber washers are used to fastened the individual shingles that make the ridge.
I would think that in HO scale, all of that isn't necessary. Just cut smaller shingles that give the look you want, and leaves the same "reveal" as the rest of the roof.
Mike.
My You Tube
I looked at the roof on my house. I just have a row of shingles that goes over the peak in the roof. I guess you would need to cut individual shingles and put them in place one at a time.
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-Kevin
Living the dream.
there are many different ways depending upon era of building , one way was to run shingles up tp peak on one side then saw it to roof slope , the run shingles on other side over the top then trimmimg them . or lay up to last row on both sides trim and install preformed tin cap(some were fancy). another way was to use ridge boards (boards nailed togather at roof angle). the other posters describer other ways . for your building a ridge board would be most likely.
I should point out that I am talking about "wood" shingles in this application. And I should have specified that I am modeling in the late forties to early fifties era.
wdcrvr I should point out that I am talking about "wood" shingles in this application. And I should have specified that I am modeling in the late forties to early fifties era. wdcrvr
Hand split Cedar Ridge cap has been sold prefabricated in bundles for many many decades.
Even before they were sold prefab the roofers would make their own.
Just Google hand split Cedar Ridge cap and you will get more pictures than you know what to do with. It will help you understand how this process works.
Hope this helps.
Track fiddler
Some thing you might be able to incorporate into your shed. A soft wall. Most powder magnazines had a wall that was very lightly constucted. One wall might be wood studs with tar paper on the outside. If there was an explosion, this wall would blow out and leave the building standing. This soft wall was usually faced away from other buildings.
Here the soft side face the river.
RR_Mel I’m just finishing my first Plastruct Styrene shingle roof and after weathering it looks good enough to go without a cap. The Testers liquid plastic cement melted the top where the sheets join and it ended up looking like a bead cap. This is my first attempt at Styrene shingles, it took umpteenth times to make them look real enough to put on my layout. I normally use Campbell #800 shingles but several years ago I picked up a package of Plastruct shingles so I decided to give them a go. I don’t use Styrene in my scratch builds so this was a steep learning curve for me. Mel Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951 My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
Hey Mel.
I have seen those plastruct shingles you speak of. I have been working with a lot of styrene modeling bridges.
Some people seem to do fine with the testers to only squeeze out enough for what they are gluing. I am not one of those people. My fingers are too Burley.
I have been using Plastruct bondene, a solvent that fuses the styrene together. You can get it all over everything and it doesn't matter it just evaporates and only melts the plastic in the joint.
One thing I found out the hard way. After the bottles about half empty, it seems all the good stuff that makes it work has evaporated and all that's left is the stink.
I talked to the guy at the hobby store that deals with the plastruct rep and he confirmed this. I bought another bottle. It's working way better again.
Track fiddler Hey Mel. I have seen those plastruct shingles you speak of. I have been working with a lot of styrene modeling bridges. Some people seem to do fine with the testers to only squeeze out enough for what they are gluing. I am not one of those people. My fingers are too Burley. I have been using Plastruct bondene, a solvent that fuses the styrene together. You can get it all over everything and it doesn't matter it just evaporates and only melts the plastic in the joint. One thing I found out the hard way. After the bottles about half empty, it seems all the good stuff that makes it work has evaporated and all that's left is the stink. I talked to the guy at the hobby store that deals with the plastruct rep and he confirmed this. I bought another bottle. It's working way better again.
Interesting I've never seen testers like that before.
Thanks for the tip Mel, I think I'm going to try that out.
The applicator looks like the fumes would be more contained. That would be nice.
The air born fumes from the open bottle re-dipping the little brush I'm using can't be good.
Thanks, I'll give it a try.
PS. You forgot to do your testers disclaimer. You sure sold me..... haha
Mel. Am I understanding this stuff seeks into joints just like the stuff I was using.
Track fiddler Mel. Am I understanding this stuff seeks into joints just like the stuff I was using.
Nice.
I better go dig the receipt out of the garbage so I can swap it out.
Thanks for the tips Mel.
I have one for you.
My brother and I used to help each other out on our modeling when we were kids. I remember he was making a mill (HO) out of the cardboard from cereal boxes. I will not ramble on about the whole thing unless you're interested later.
He asked me if I could help him out with the roof.
My dad was a cabinet maker/carpenter with a garage full of tools so I went out to use the band saw.
I cut sporadic random slits across the whole front edge of the cereal cardboard. You know, different widths like cedar shakes. A quarter inch deep. Then I took it to the paper slicer and cut it off a half inch rip. Fresh slate, back to the band saw and repeat until I had enough of these strips to layer a roof.
We painted it kind of a light Briar tan and a light grey. Did a super diluted black wash to get in the crevices. Finished with even a lighter tanish white dry brushing.
It looked great. It looked like a weathered wood roof and the best part basically free.