SeeYou190Why not put 1/8" plywood under the N roadbed so there is no vertical transition?
The vertical transition is probably part of what the OP intends to represent.
Take a look at the end of the WP siding at West Wendover, NV, showing how the siding drops sharply from the main http://www.carrtracks.com/nvwp806wp3008.htm . The vertical curve is usually the reason why different thicknesses of cork would be used.
Rob Spangler
Why not put 1/8" plywood under the N roadbed so there is no vertical transition? Just bring the scenery base up to the bottom of the thinner roadbed.
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-Kevin
Living the dream.
superbe...Try it and you will like it.
I did like it! The grain elevator/farm supply store shown below was moved to this site from another location, and the existing siding, in the foreground, ended just about where the wooden ramp, to the left of the track, is located....
The surrounding scenery was all in place, so I simply added a suitable length of flex track. propping it up to a reasonable height with chunks of leftover plaster, then poured ballast to fill in the gaps. That was topped with some dirt and ground foam, then, after saturating with wet water, lots of dilute white glue was added.It took several days to dry, but the track is well-supported and fully useable. The whole operation was a lot easier than cutting out scenery and trying to add a supporting roadbed structure in the limited space available.
Wayne
I found the following method to be the easiest and with no problems. I simply attached the flex track to the turnout on the HO roadbed and positioned it on the layout top where I wanted it. The track maakes its own transition. The gap between the track and the layout top is then filled with ballast. Keep in mind the flex track may move horizontally but is very stout vertically for a reasonable distance. It needs no real support.
Here is one example on my layout. Try it and you will like it.
Bob
Don't Ever Give Up
This one, the curving track running off the far main and down to the turnout near the icehouse and parked boxcars, is about 13" or 14" long, and transitions from full-height cork right down to the plywood roadbed...
Not much science involved - I simply took some #36 garnet paper wrapped around a scrap of 2"x2", and rubbed for a couple of minutes until it looked about right. It handles Mikados and 80 foot passenger cars without problem, and I don't have any 4-12-2s.
I did this in a couple of yard entry cases, one as you describe from HO to N cork, the other from HO cork to the plywood sub-roadbed. I did not pick a particular measurement, just made the transition by sanding down the HO cork, which went quickly with careful use of a belt sander.
But your post gets me thinking, particularly where one wants a more severe (shorter) transition, such as the HO cork to sub-roadbed might involve. A typical approach involves a vertical transition curve at the top, a middle constant slope, plus the vertical curve transition at the bottom. With short upper and low transitions, and a longest constant slope, this might involve too severe a transition (say for a 4-12-2 loco) at either end, at least theoretically. The other extreme would be very modest vertical curves at the top and bottom transitions, meeting at the middle, with nil constant slope in the middle. This would result in a vertical "S" curve in the middle, again not desireable (if too severe) with that 4-12-2 loco.
You just got me thinking (a rare event) so I thought I'd share that. In reality, I think it would take an extremely short transition to be a problem with the HO to N cork. It's probably more worthy of attention for a HO to sub-roadbed transition as I did in one case. Or just run 0-4-0 locos and no long passenger cars.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
I use 11" to go from 1/4" to 1/8" cork for simple track. If there are any turnouts across the transition, I use a 16 1/2" ramp length. Never had a problem - long wheelbase locos (2-8-2's, 2-8-8-2's, 2-10-2) all went through the switches on those ramps flawlessly.
Mark P.
Website: http://www.thecbandqinwyoming.comVideos: https://www.youtube.com/user/mabrunton
I go about 12" or so. I have no problems with 6-axle diesels or 89' cars.
It's whatever is visually appealing to you.
My previous layout used 18" transitions after the diverging route straightened out. It was noticeable but not terrible by any means.
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Hi,
How many inches should I transition HO cork to N Scale cork?
I want to use use N scale for my branch line and passing sidings.
Thanks
chris