I'm in the same boat - looking for a larger home with more space. My 3rd layout came down last month.
I am old school. I use 11x17" graph paper with scale rule and compass. I prefer to draw in walls and other features like doors, posts etc. to scale. Then make photo copies of that "master" and then I can visualize what will fit where with the grid, which is to scale.
Here is a scale drawing of my 2nd layout - top is main part, and bottom is staging beneath main yard. The plan shows 8 staging tracks, but it was built with 10. There were two more added on the inside area where there is space.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
Graph paper is good.
NCE starter set is fine. As mentioned above, if you are going to run more locos, more than three, you should get a booster, SB5 is made for that purpose.
I was running three sound locos and started double heading one, making four sound locos running. OOps, too much, needed a repair. Only run two or three now. When new, larger layout is operational, plan to invest in the booster, just so I can run more if I so choose.
As I understand it, it is how many locos (sound draws more) you run, not the physical size of your layout with DCC.
A putty knife or similar object should lift your track. It will do the cork too, but the adhesive used could make this more difficult.
Good luck on your move.
Have fun,
Richard
kasskaboose .. 1. Use graph paper or a free software tool for designing the layout? I like the former since it's faster to use.
..
1. Use graph paper or a free software tool for designing the layout? I like the former since it's faster to use.
I use compass, ruler, realistic frog angle representations, and graph paper sized 18" X 14". Once I have my concept drawn to scale, I map it out 1:1 on the floor of the train room using 1" masking tape to represent both the boundaries of the frame sections and the tracks (so there is no room for boo boos and to leave some fudge room for the inevitable boo boos).
kasskaboose 2. Can I still use the NCE starter throttle?
2. Can I still use the NCE starter throttle?
Why do you suspect that you might not be able to? If it works on one layout, it will work on all layouts that are electrically 'correct'. If your current system limits you in a way you find...er....limiting, then maybe it's time to open the wallet? Not really sure what you're asking here...sorry.
kasskaboose 3. How to reclaim track and cork when tearing down the original layout?
3. How to reclaim track and cork when tearing down the original layout?
Depends on how it's currently retained in its geometry. Can it be softened and loosened with a gentle soaking for maybe 10 minutes and then an old bucher knife thrust between the ties and roadbed? From there, just saw and jimmy and it will come up. Any soldered joints will have to be undone or simply sawed through with a cut-off disk and Dremel. Later, clean up the ends with your Xuron tool and needle files. You'll only lose maybe a whole inch per length of track that way.
Later, before you begin to lay those lengths anew, they'll need a thorough cleaning. I soak mine in hot water with TSP. Inside of 15 minutes or so, run a bristle brush carefully over both sides of the ties, trying hard to be thorough in order to get all glue and ballast material off. Makes laying it in clean curves, and tight to the new cork you'll have to purchase that much easier.
Cork roadbed? Again, time to go to your computer and place that $80 order. My opinion.
kasskaboose Thanks!
Thanks!
Don't mention it.
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#2 This is really dependant on how many trains you run simultaneously and if they have sound. At the worst, you will have to buy a booster and a different attachment plate for the powercab.
#3 Water is supposed to dissolve the glues holding ballast track and cork. If you've soldered every rail joint, you will not be having a fun time.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
1) I would use graph paper, that is just me.
2) Yes.
3) Be carefull when removing from the old layout.
Wife wants to move to a larger home and I get a much larger train room. There's PLENTY I learned from the 1st layout, so the 2nd should go a bit faster. Qute sad seeing the 1st get removed but I'm looking forward to making a larger and more realistic 2nd one. Plenty of layout books, pictures, and you have helped me. Thanks! I plan on consulting them again, but don't want to spend so much time planning that I don't get to building!
I plan on making a 14x12' U-shaped point-to-point design in HO scale. I'd like to keep my existing industries (oil dealer, grain and coal) along with a yard. The 2nd layout will offer more room for these industries and a much longer mainline. I still plan on using l-girder benchwork with 2" foam as the sub-roadbed
Here are my questions going to a larger layout: