Windows & door cutouts in wood: Easy?

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the helpful suggestions!

@Muddy Creek: Thanks for the kind words; my partner-in-crime (Ron) has done 99.9% of what you see.

@jrbarney: Great link! I'll send a flash email to Santa.

Darrel

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by jrbarney
you might also want to look at the Micro Mark 90 degree punch:

Thanks for that link, Bob. I see what my next tool order will contain.

Wayne

[jrbarney]

Darrell,
Depending upon the materials you are working with, you might also want to look at the Micro Mark 90 degree punch:
http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=81652
which has 5/16" cutting edges, the 3/16" version is item 82394. Also, have you looked at X-Acto (Hunt Corp) number 17 and 18 chisel blades ?
Bob
NMRA Life 0543

[Anonymous]

I still make my first cuts with a sharp knife even it I'm going to use a saw or chisel. This cleanly severes the top layer of fibers so you don't get tearout in the non-waste area. I keep the knife perpendiculer to the work on the finish side then strike again on the waste side at an angle creating a groove. The perpendiculer side of the groove helps align the chisel. When using chisels, there are two basic styles. We most commonly see chisels with beveled sides and may refer to them as dovetail though this term too is not always accurately applied. The other style is harder to find but is actually better for most uses. This second style has perpendiculer sides and depending on how much beef is known as a firmer chisel for the light ones and a mortising chisel for the heavy ones. The beveled edges are to allow access to areas like dove tails which can work to a disadvantage when trying to follow lines or cut mortices. The firmer chisel make it easier to follow those type of cuts and can be used for light mortising. 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 inch are probably the handiest to own for most cuts. In all cases, extreme sharp, good light over the work and patience can not be emphasized enough. Get any of these three off a bit and your cuts will deteriorate. Be prepared to change blades, sharpen the blade, or lay down the blade for the night and call it Miller time.

[Anonymous]

Jetrock is right, a new X-Acto blade works well, but only if you have the key tool mstein mentioned, patience. To this I would add a thin metal straightedge.

My first scratchbuild project in nearly 15 years was a large sawmill complex and the mill and related buildings had over 100 door and window openings. That's when I learned the value of a new blade. It's also when I learned about laser cutting. Now nearly all my projects are laser cut. So it's cheating, but who cares?

Wayne

Edited to add: Welcome to the forum, Stagefright.

Edited again to add: Just looked at some of your projects on your website. Some outstanding detail there.

[dehusman]

You can also rough cut the opening, then use a a chisel to finish cut the hole. Will give you a clean opening if the chisel is sharp and the wood is supported under the cut (one a block of wood). A 1/4 wide chisel is handy.

Dave H.

[Jetrock]

And don't be afraid to CHANGE BLADES. Only use actual X-ACTO knives and blades--the cheapola Chinese copies are worthless (the blades are dull, the handle has a wimpy plastic blade holder.) I try to start every project with a fresh blade, and if I notice that I have to apply more than a little pressure when cutting I dispose of the blade and plug in a new one. Buy X-Acto #11's in bulk so they're cheaper.

[Anonymous]

Basic tools are good light, layout tools (square, rule, 45 and 30/60 degree triangles), sharp knife and patience. Useful additions are vernier calipers and sharp pencil. Most doors and windows have brick molding and other trim attached. The trim over laps the cutout just like the real stuff. Calipers are used to measure the door/window minus the molding. The rest is appling the dimension to the walls, marking accurately, cutting carefully. I'll use a block to help guide the knife along the marked lines. I let the knife do the work which means multiple strokes. I cut inside the lines and use fine files to adjust to final fit.

[Anonymous]

My first post in this forum. My friend asked me to help on his new HO gauge layout, so I'll be asking a few questions (after searching, of course!).

I have been an armchair modeller for many years now and have built many structures. This, however, is my first adventure into wood kits which are not pre-cut.

So: How do I cut out the rectanges for doors & windows?

Here's what we've done so far...http://home.comcast.net/~stage.family/

Thanks in advance,

Darrel