Before I start ordering any lumber for this multi-deck railroad of mine I wonder as to which deck I should build first, the second deck will be free standing on its own supported by legs and will be in modules as will be the lower deck.
I'm thinking it would be an idea to do the top first and figure out what needs to be done first then start the lower deck modules and go from their
You're thoughts please if you may
Hello SAR (name?),
How are you going to connect both decks? A helix? Nolix? What is the spacing between each level? In order to give you some type of accurate reply, it would help if you can tell us. I built a 2 level layout with a helix. In my case, I had a single level layout, and I lowered those sections so I could add the upper level. Let us know and I'm sure more replies from the group will follow..
Neal
If you dont mind working under bench work to build, lay track and scenic, then have at it. I'd rather have free and clear access so I would work from bottom to top un that order. As they say, its your RR.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
SAR 500free standing on its own supported by legs and will be in modules as will be the lower deck.
I think you need to rethink this. Supporting a milti-deck layout is not a trivial engineering effort and is not compatible with "modules". Take a look at Tony Koester's book:
Once you understand the construction requirements, build the benchwork and lay the track bottom up. Do scenery top down.
I have the right to remain silent. By posting here I have given up that right and accept that anything I say can and will be used as evidence to critique me.
A multideck in modules can be done, but it take real planning and they need to be bolted together so the entire structure in solid.
My best idea is to have boxed legs for the front and back going all the way from ground to second level. Then cut it at first layout top and insert a square leg into the bottom peice that is even with the bottom and sticking out high enough out of the top so that the upper peice can fit over the extention an provide a solid feel. The insert should be perminently attached to the bottom box and a leg leveler put into it. You would then build the bacic module sections and attach to legs. Now this dose not give you the wide open feel that many modelers like for their railroads having a leg in the front and back (back dosen't mater as we ussually have backdrops. You still need to make sure this is not top heavy, by layout being in an L paterern etc. or by attaching to a wall at the top, could extend legs up to the ceiling also etc.
My main peninsula isn't multi-deck, but does support track on four levels. Trackwork was built from lowest to highest levels, except for the topmost level, my notorious 'end of the railroad' module, which was built forty years before it achieved its final location.
On the rest of the layout, the planned upper level will be built along a structural wall, supported by shelf brackets independent of the terrain below. The shelf tracks are already in place.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Nealknows Neal
Going to connect the decks with a helix, the decks a as follows
Deck one 51' from the floor (1295mm)
Deck two 65' from the floor (1650mm)
That's what looks good to me (I'm 6'4 so to my height and liking) and possibly under the layout staging too.
Riogrande5761
Thankyou I'll keep that in mind
Carl 425
Thankyou I better dig my copy out again and re-read it cover to cover I've missed a couple of things
fcwilt
I'll keep that in mind when I get to that stage with the wiring
rrebell
I like the sound of that idea and will give it some serious consideration and thankyou.
Thankyou all so far
Cam
My layout is only partially double-decked, but the lower portion was done first...well, it wasn't completely "done", and now, with the upper level in place, it's more difficult to do the necessary work on the lower level.That includes adding some structures and finishing some scenery, along with installing manual remote control for some of the turnouts which are manually operated but no longer easily accessible. The upper deck is about 16" above the lower, but the upper level's fascia drops down quite a bit in order to hide the fluorescent light fixtures attached to the bottom of the upper level, leaving only a 9" high access. It looks good for operations, but it's not suitable for access to do the needed work.For that, I'll need to remove the fascia, or at least unfasten it in the areas where I need to work, then clamp it to the still-installed fascia immediately across the aisle - this situation is necessary only because the 1/8" Masonite fascia is a glued-together one-piece affair about 45' long.
My suggestion is to do the bottom level first, and finish everything - track wiring, scenery, structures...everything that you can think of that needs to be done.Then tackle the upper level.
Wayne
doctorwayne My layout is only partially double-decked, but the lower portion was done first...well, it wasn't completely "done", and now, with the upper level in place, it's more difficult to do the necessary work on the lower level.That includes adding some structures and finishing some scenery, along with installing manual remote control for some of the turnouts which are manually operated but no longer easily accessible. The upper deck is about 16" above the lower, but the upper level's fascia drops down quite a bit in order to hide the fluorescent light fixtures attached to the bottom of the upper level, leaving only a 9" high access. It looks good for operations, but it's not suitable for access to do the needed work.For that, I'll need to remove the fascia, or at least unfasten it in the areas where I need to work, then clamp it to the still-installed fascia immediately across the aisle - this situation is necessary only because the 1/8" Masonite fascia is a glued-together one-piece affair about 45' long. My suggestion is to do the bottom level first, and finish everything - track wiring, scenery, structures...everything that you can think of that needs to be done.Then tackle the upper level. Wayne
Thankyou Wayne
Yeah now that I think about it more lower deck first seems the better option when how many signals I have to install (4 for the first deck and 4 for the upper) and afew trees plus a few farm implements and track work on the lower deck hmm... Better read that book again and refresh the mind before anything else before I cut lumber.
Fortunately its country kind of simalr to the mid west bein open flat and grain country. Thankyou everyone so far for you're contributions
When i built my multi deck railroad I did it from the top down. There are a few pictures of it in the Kalmbach Book mentioned earlier. Much easier to wire the upper deck install switch machines and do scenery with no lower deck in the way. I painted the upper level benchworks underneath once it was in place. Also easier to install lower deck lighting with no lower deck in place. Lower level backdrop can be installed before the lower deck benchwork is in place. If I had it to do again I would do it the same way as I did it years ago. ---- Ken McCorry