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How to Use Full Size Track Plan

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  • Member since
    September 2013
  • From: Madison, WI
  • 3 posts
How to Use Full Size Track Plan
Posted by David MCC on Wednesday, April 26, 2017 11:30 AM

At the age of 70, I'm beginning to build my first layout.  I have a professionally designed U-shaped switching layout plan that I can print out full size on multiple sheets of paper.  It seems to me that working with a full size plan would be more straight forward than converting measurements from a smaller plan.  My question is how to best transfer the full size plan to the sub-roadbed.  I don't want to glue the plan to the plywood, and the only other thing I can think of is to use carbon paper to transfer the plan to the wood.  Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks.

David

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    October 2005
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Posted by betamax on Wednesday, April 26, 2017 6:22 PM

I used a pizza cutter to transfer the template to the plywood.  It made enough of an impression you could follow it.

Not even sure you can still get carbon paper...

  • Member since
    May 2004
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Posted by 7j43k on Wednesday, April 26, 2017 7:42 PM

Maybe lots of little brads nailed through the paper.

Or paint the plywood and try a pounce wheel or an automatic centerpunch.

Either way, it's going to be VERY important to lay the papers out perfectly.  As opposed to the alternative.

 

Ed

  • Member since
    May 2010
  • From: SE. WI.
  • 8,253 posts
Posted by mbinsewi on Wednesday, April 26, 2017 9:07 PM

I think there are a couple of huge layout builds, currently on the forums, that used this method.  Maybe search the forums, in the "Search the Community" box on the right hand side.

Didn't the LoneWolf or maybe MichaelRose's layout use full size prints?

Mike.

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: Southern California
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Posted by Lone Wolf and Santa Fe on Wednesday, April 26, 2017 9:21 PM

Cut out the track pattern and tape it down on the plywood, or just hold it with your hand, or use a paper weight or two. Draw the outline with a pencil. Check to make sure it didn't move.

 

Modeling a fictional version of California set in the 1990s Lone Wolf and Santa Fe Railroad
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Posted by ROBERT PETRICK on Wednesday, April 26, 2017 11:46 PM

David MCC

Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks.

I can describe what I did, but I know it will be of little use to almost everyone on this forum. Nevertheless . . .

I started out life as a draftsman. I drafted my layout design full size (that is to say full N-scale size) in the layout room using conventional drawing methods and precision drafting tools; first on the floor, then on the benchwork, and even on the walls. The technique is called lofting, and before CAD came into prominence it was a very common practice. A quick internet search would turn up photos from the old days of engineers in vests and bowties rolling up their sleeves and removing their shoes (lots of argyle socks) and drawing ships and airplanes full size on factory floors.

I laid out control points and established baselines and so forth . . . curves and angles and tangents and offsets and whatnot are within about 1/16" of what I designed using the computer. Piece of cake.

Robert

LINK to SNSR Blog


  • Member since
    March 2017
  • 51 posts
Posted by olson185 on Thursday, April 27, 2017 6:13 AM

Most CAD and all PDF file formats can be taken to a copy shop with a plotter printer.  There's a copy shop near me that has a continuous roll plotter (for banners). 

Any plotter printer (most typically print in 24"x 36" sheets) will allow fewer seams and allow you to print a 'master copy', to keep pristine, and a copy (two copies if one has multiple, grade different track crossings) for cutting and tracing onto track beds. 

With 8-1/2" x 11" paper, there's a greater chance that a large layout will be off due to printing tolerances and cutting/pasting errors.

  • Member since
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Posted by Choops on Thursday, April 27, 2017 8:18 AM

Drive around the industrial parks near you and look for a tool and die shop or mold shop.  They usually have large 36"roll printers and may be able to print the plan out for you.  Maybe even for free.

Or you can lay out a 6" grid and overlay a grid on your plan and transfer points and locate switches onto your benckwork and connect the dots.  This should get you close enough.

Steve

Modeling Union Pacific between Cheyenne and Laramie in 1957 (roughly)
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    July 2006
  • From: The Villages, Fl
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Posted by bavrail on Thursday, April 27, 2017 8:32 AM

We used what is called a "pounce wheel". If you google it you will see some pictures. We originally laid out our track plan on brown wrapping paper. We then laid that on the layout and followed the track center line with the pounce wheel. The pounce wheel left tiny holes in the table top. 

WS

  • Member since
    February 2013
  • 479 posts
Posted by HObbyguy on Thursday, April 27, 2017 11:54 AM

I just taped the sheets together and used carbon paper to trace it on (yes it is still available.)  I did it in sections and with a bit of care it worked out fine.

As usual lots of ways to skin the cat.

Huntington Junction - Freelance based on the B&O and C&O in coal country before the merger...  doing it my way.  Now working on phase 3.      - Walt

For photos and more:  http://www.wkhobbies.com/model-railroad/

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Posted by wdw3082 on Thursday, April 27, 2017 1:40 PM

You can still get carbon paper. My GF and I got some at Office Depot. It didn't cost  much either.

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Posted by lifeontheranch on Thursday, April 27, 2017 2:35 PM

I used a full size track plan print when building my railroad. If you want to read about the process in mind numbing detail the posts begin here: http://www.lkorailroad.com/track-laying-begins/

BTW Graphite paper works far better than carbon paper.

 

  • Member since
    March 2017
  • 70 posts
Posted by bibbster on Thursday, April 27, 2017 4:06 PM
David, when you get ready to print your layout, make sure you draw a scale on one page in your computer and verify that your printer actually prints true. Some printers will be off and sometimes there is a checkbox for printing full page, etc. that may have gotten checked and become the default. I usually just draw a 1" x 1" box, print to scale, and then measure to be sure it prints 1" x 1".

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