Hi.
I have a Walthers HO scale car shop (kit 933-3040).
What's the best way to secure code 83 rail to the base?
Thanks!
I looked at the instruction sheet, I also have the kit, just don't have space. I've never opened mine, still has the celophane wrapping, so, there are grooves in the base for rails? Maybe try the Walthers GOO, as it's suposed to be removeable, and easy to take up, if you want to make changes, just apply it sparingly.
I would suggest checking the gauge as you go, but maybe the grooves already do that. I would probably check to see the height of the rail, and that code 83 comes at least flush with the floor, and wheel flanges don't have any issues.
And maybe in the furture, you can add on to it, if you have the space, and if you can, pre-plan that space now.
Like I said, haven't built the kit yet, but things I would do before and during the construction.
Mike.
My You Tube
I don't have that kit, but if the base is moulded with grooves of some sort which would accept the rail in a manner that it would be in-gauge, contact cement would be a good choice.
Do make sure to follow the useage instructions on the glue container. Contact cement is to be applied to both mating surfaces and allowed to dry for a minumum stated time, which should be found in the instructions. Once that time has elapsed, you can carefully put the rails in place. The bond is pretty-well instant upon contact (who-da thunk it?), so make sure that the rails are placed properly.If the locating grooves are a bit sloppy, allow the glue to dry as outlined, then lay a piece of waxed paper over the groove, leaving perhaps 1/8" inch exposed at the end. Place the rail atop the waxed paper, then carefully slide it towards the exposed glue. Line it up to where it should be, then press the end onto the exposed glue. Next, carefully pull the waxed paper lengthwise from under the rail, following along with your free hand, pressing the rail into the groove as the glued area is exposed.Repeat for the second rail, and if the grooves are a bit sloppy, use a track gauge instead of just your hand to press the rail into place.
I used this method to install 12' lengths of rail into Central Valley tie strips, and it makes a very solid bond. I used LePages or Weldbond gelled contact cement, which is less stringy to apply than liquid contact cement, but it comes only in quart or gallon cans, and is a bit pricey if this is the only job for which you'd need it. Regular contact cement can be had in a tube.
Wayne