Placing Track on Roadbed

[starman]

Hello

My bench work has been completed for my HO layout. I used hot glue to attach risers and inclines to the bench work, and I used DAP’s Dynaflex 230 to attach cork roadbed to the bench work, risers, and inclines.  I am now ready to attach Atlas code 100 flex track to the cork roadbed.  This is where I need some additional advice.  Should I use track nails only to attach the flex track to the roadbed, should I used any sort of adhesive, should I used track nails and adhesive, or is there a totally different way I should attach the flex track to the cork roadbed?  If I used nails, what length should I used and should they go into the cork roadbed only or all the way through into the top of the bench work?

So far I am very pleased with the way my layout is progressing.  I can hardly wait to see the first engine roll along the tracks!  Once everything works as it should, I will begin on the scenery.  I look forward to that as well.

Thanks for your advice.

Jack

[UNCLEBUTCH]

All of the above or none, I don't use a roadbed, track is laid on the foam table top.

Some is glued with a fine/thin bead of caulk,some is held down with pins[,ballest, not glued] some is held with just the ballest [white glue/water mix],and some spurs are just sitting there.My trains run fine.

I don't think there is a "right" way; it's what works for you

[DSchmitt]

I glue the track to the roadbed.  When laying track  I use tracknailsl placed just deep enough to hold the track in position while the glue sets then remove them.  

[NYBW-John]

Assuming you intend to ballast your track you only need to use something to hold the track in place until the ballast glue dries. Track nails can be used but don't drive the nail head all the way down to the tie because you might drive it too far and bend the tie which can throw your track out of gauge. You'll probably want to remove the nails once the ballast is set which is another reason not to drive the nail all the way in.

I've found that caulk or construction adhesive will by itself hold the track in position until it can be ballasted. If there is a sharp curve which makes it more difficult to hold the track in place nails might be needed.

[selector]

I really like the 'clear' type of DAP Alex Plus with silicone.  It is white at first, and opaque, but dries to a somewhat rubbery clear colour, and of course it's a shiny surface.  Covered in ballast grains, it is invisible.  The benefit is that a kitchen knife gently sawing under the ties can free it from a thin spread of the caulk rather easily if you need to relay that section.

I sometimes use track nails, or sheet metal screws driven just snug between the outer tie ends if I want something more retentive, to hold curved ends of rail in place.  I have used the caulk, and then set filled soda tins on their sides on top of the rails to keep pressure downward and help the caulk retain the tracks and set up over a couple of hours.  What you want to avoid is placing a few widely separated heavy objects on the rails that can cause a depression under them.  Your trains will wobble and dip and climb if you do that.  Multiple soda tins placed with their ends only an inch or so apart will perform what you want of them well.  If the curvature is so severe that soda tins on their sides won't fit (N scale?), place 2-3" long 1X2 boards along the curves if you can, and set a soda tin on each of those.

[starman]

Do you apply the DAP to every tie or do you skip a few between the DAP?

[rrinker]

 Run a VERY thin bead down the cork. Spread with a putty knife. Then stick the track in. Some push pins will hold it in alignment while the caulk dries.

 It should NOT ooze up around the ties, if so you used too much. If using the clear stuff, it comes out of the tube white. I spread it so thin it just looks like the top of the cork is a bit shiny. It takes very little to hold the track.

                                       --Randy

 

[PennCentral99]

starman

I used hot glue to attach risers and inclines to the bench work

You sure this is going to hold things together, especially for the long haul? These pieces are integral parts for stability of your layout. I have used hot glue for temporary "holdings", but i would actually nail or bolt these pieces together.

Before you begin adhering track, I would use track nails to hold the track in position and run trains, A LOT. This will give an indication if any adjustments are needed that are causing mis-alignments, derailings, transitions with elevations, etc. Track needs to be bullet proof and if you adhere it before working out kinks, problems or other snafu's, you'll only be frustrated later. Ripping up track and redoing, especially if problems could have been corrected beforehand, is not fun.

Someone already mentioned not to push the track nails in to hard or to far. Once your track is bullet proof and you're satisfied, you can use clear caulk (which has already been mentioned)

Terry

[mbinsewi]

Yea, I kind'a wondered about the hot glue.  I've used it to glue together cardboard mock-ups of buildings I'm planning, but not for permanent installations.

As far as track, I used a light bead of caulk, down the middle, then weighted down for a couple of days, at very least overnight.  I have a sub-bed of 2" foam board, so nails would have to be LONG.

I've had to make a couple of revisions, and the track comes up easy, using the knive method.

Just my experience.

Mike.

[kasskaboose]

White glue mixed with water (50/50) works well for securing track.  I put a bead of 100% white glue and pressed it down with cans to keep it while the glue dried.  Using white glue is great because you can easily remove the track by wetting it and slowly prying up the track.

Nails also work, but I would suggest Micro Engineering track ties.  They are very small and you can put them into the track ties by creating a small hole with a pin vice.

[Anonymous]

kasskaboose

White glue mixed with water (50/50) works well for securing track.  I put a bead of 100% white glue and pressed it down with cans to keep it while the glue dried.  Using white glue is great because you can easily remove the track by wetting it and slowly prying up the track.

Except if you were to go back and glue ballast later, your track will come up.  White glue, even after several years can be removed by your wetting agent during the ballasting process.  

I used Liquid Nails for projects.  I was able to salvage 90% of flex track (95 percent of the rail made it) and every single turnout on the railroad when I moved last fall.  As long as you dont over do the liquid nails, everything will come up with the gentle application of a metal putty knife.   The 5 unsalvageable was ballasted in a tunnel or where I used too much liquid nails to glue the track down.

Incidentally, you can use liquid nails for the entire project: foam/risers cork and track. 

[jjdamnit]

Hello all,

I recently changed the construction of my HO pike.

Because it sits on the bed in the spare bedroom, as per the mandate of "She who must be obeyed" there is no bench work.

Previously it was 5/8-inch Medium Density Fiber Board (very heavy) with 1-inch blue foam.

Now it is a frame of 1x2's with a top of 1/4-inch plywood with the same 1-inch blue foam. Think open grid with no legs.

To attach the roadbed to the foam I used clear silicone caulk.

I put a bead down the center line of the roadbed and then spread it with a plastic putty knife that happened to be the same width of the roadbed. Any excess caulk was easily cleaned with a wet rag.

To hold the roadbed in place until the caulk dried I used "T" pins.

If the roadbed was not as I liked the silicone caulk peeled away from the roadbed and foam with no damage to either.

I held the track in place with #19 5/8-inch brads; available at hardware/home improvement centers and much cheaper than track nails.

Then I ballast the track following the method I outlined in this thread. http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/258968.aspx.

After the ballast dried I removed the brads.

Hope this helps.

[BigDaddy]

I used Dap and push pins, easily inserted removed and reused.  Don't be Superman and distort the track when you press them in.

Those that suggest very thin are correct.