Materials for streets

[hbgatsf]

I have read many posts and watched videos describing the different methods to make urban streets.  I was hoping to get a few answers to help me make a decision on which method to use.

Does EVA foam deteriorate over time?

Where do you buy PVC foamboard?  I found it on Amazon but shipping is high.  With this method how do you seal seams from one piece to another?

How hard is it to sand Durham's Water Putty if the surface doesn't come out the way you want?  Joint compound would be easy to sand - why use Water Putty insead?

Thanks for your help.

 

Rick

[MisterBeasley]

hbgatsf

How hard is it to sand Durham's Water Putty if the surface doesn't come out the way you want? Joint compound would be easy to sand - why use Water Putty insead?

This is the one I use.  When I put down a road, I expect to spend the next hour or so smoothing it while still wet, using a foam brush and constantly dipping it in a cup of water to keep it clean.  I get a good but not perfect surface that way, which I think looks better than a sheet of plastic.  It can be sanded, too, but it is pretty tough once it's hard.  That's a good feature, as it will not chip easily.

[doctorwayne]

hbgatsf

...Joint compound would be easy to sand...

While it's easy to sand, it's also easy to scratch, and the patched pavement-look in the photo below actually has been patched, pretty-well after everytime someone places a camera on the road to take a photo...

Wayne

[HO-Velo]

Hi Rick,  So many methods and materials, but so little time. I'm leaning towards styrene and or Sintra board for my city streets and sidewalks.  Both are available in large sheets which can help avoid seams. Sintra board is softer than styrene and has a bit of inherent texture.  But as you mention there is the drawback of material price and shipping.

Did a little test piece with Sintra board, added some texture by borrowing Ray Dunakin's method of randomly imprinting the surface with a stone.  Paint, weathering and striping done by following Lance Mindheim's website technique.

good luck with your street paving and regards,  Peter

[RR_Mel]

I've used Arizona Rock & Mineral materials for about 25 years and it makes great roads.  I use their Asphalt Powder #1030 for my paved highways and urban roads, CSX Southern Pacific Wabash Ballast #138-2 for gravel roads and Tan Granite Power #123-0 for dirt/mountain roads.

 

 

 

 

I apply the material to the working surface then spray it with a white glue/water 8:1 mix until saturated to a paste then trowel (1” flat blade trowel) it to a smooth finish.  Before it totally dries I run a vehicle over my dirt roads forming ruts.

 

Mel

 

Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

[jlehnert]

Looks good Mel. What do you use for concrete? 

[hon30critter]

Hi Mel:

Your roads look great!

RR_Mel

I use their Asphalt Power #1030

One tiny point. I think you meant to type the word 'powder' instead of 'power'. I was a bit confused (it doesn't take much to confuse me) until I checked their site.

https://store.rrscenery.com/

Regards,

Dave

[RR_Mel]

Sorry for the slow response!  I’ve been working on my camera car project and things went astray.  Thanks for catching my fat finger problem Dave, I corrected it.

 

I use the Arizona Rock & Mineral Concrete Power #1260 for my concrete.  I don’t do much concrete on my layout, my layout is early 1950s country style living.  I have poured a few walkways, streetlight footings and the bases for my signals and signal cabinets.  Same process, 8:1 mix to a paste and do it to it.

 

I fell into the Arizona Rock & Mineral stuff by accident.  My local hobby shop stocked it and I just picked up a bag to try.  It turned out so easy to do and looks so much better than anything I had tried in the past that I've stuck with it ever since.  I really like the way the dirt roads turnout with the realistic looking ruts.

 

Edit:

 

If you noticed the asphalt between the tracks, that was not planned.  The realistic darkened asphalt was created from my CMX Track Cleaning car over many years.  That section of my highway is roughly 24 years old.  The patches are real, I’m a very sloppy model railroader and it does help sometimes to be a bit sloppy.

 

Didn’t mention it but once the asphalt has fully dried you can put different finishes on it using sandpaper.  I have a very old Craftsman three disk mini rotary sander that works great for finishing roads.

 

 

Mel

 

Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

[herrinchoker]

I have tried Imperial Black Furnace Cement, when it dries it resembles a sun faded asphalt road. I have applied it with a 1" putty knife, it spreads easily, and can be worked with a knife that has been wet with water. I have just started using this, so do not know if there are any elfs hiding in the bushes, so far--I am pleased with how it works.

Any hardware store that sells stove pipe should have this, or a similar product, in stock. Hope this helps.  herrinchoker

[tomkat-13]

I used foam board. 

 

[last mountain & eastern hogger]

My asphalt highway is made from a strip of rolled roofing, cut to width and laid on it's face and using the back side of it for the asphalt. It is striped using very thin automitive pin stripping tape. Any cracks etc. can be made with a thin tipped permanet marker.

Works for me.           

Johnboy out..........