I started out using .020” rod and it didn’t cut the mustard as a long push rod. .030” rod was still flaky so I ended up using .040” rod.
I had gone out on a limb building my own double crossover and decided to continue going overboard by building a ¼” Acrylic sub base to keep everything in alignment. I had several large pieces of ¼” clear Acrylic sheet on hand.
I built everything up on my workbench and when I had it working perfect installed it on my layout. It has worked flawlessly for about 7 years.
I got onto using bellcranks about 10 years ago when I started having problems with the old Atlas under the table switch machines. I went with DuBro bellcranks early on and they have worked out so good I stayed with them.
I rarely under engineer anything, I’ve always gone overboard . . . . no such thing as too much power on my layout.
I’d tried a box full of manufactured double crossovers (code 83) over about 15 years and none of them would pass my Rivarossi Cab Forwards without problems (Pre RP-25). The last one I tried was a Fast Tracks and when it wouldn’t work that was the last straw. All of my Cab Forwards would clear the Atlas Custom Line turnouts without any problems so I built my own from Custom Line #6s.
The cheapo servos (SG90) are marginal operating two turnouts so if I do swap out the Tortoise I’m going to use a large scale Airtronics servo for my double crossover. The Tortoise is working fine and because it isn’t the easiest thing to get to I may leave it in.
You’re correct about the Arduino, mine worked first shot without any problems. I’m planning on using IR detection to prevent hitting an open turnout, the MEGA has plenty of capacity to handle automation.
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
My Model Railroad
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.