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Recommended method of adhering grout around trackage

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  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Cape Cod, MA
  • 79 posts
Recommended method of adhering grout around trackage
Posted by kelleywpns on Tuesday, February 21, 2017 6:35 PM

I'm getting closer to ballasting the tracks in and around my n-scale engine service tracks and roundhouse.  I used fine Arizona Rock and Mineral cinders for my classification tracks and although I'm fairly happy with the way it turned out, I'd like a different effect on my next step.

I've conducted a couple tests on some scrap foam w/ spare pieces of track and grout.  I seem to have better luck NOT using any kind of diluted glue.  When I misted on a water/alcohol mix, things turned out decent--no real ‘potholes’; didn’t move much of the grout out of place; dried nicely.  When I dropped on a diluted glue mixture on the other test, I ended up with almost a glossy “sheen” on the hardened grout after it dried.

I was curious as to others experience using grout and how they chose to adhere it to their layouts.  Also, looking for some input on how the dried grout has stood over time with your chosen method (i.e. did it continue to give off ‘dust’, chip, etc)?

Thanks for your time.

Mike

  • Member since
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  • From: Shenandoah Valley
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Posted by BigDaddy on Tuesday, February 21, 2017 7:40 PM

Grout is the stuff between my bathroom tilesBig Smile

kelleywpns
When I dropped on a diluted glue mixture on the other test, I ended up with almost a glossy “sheen” on the hardened grout after it dried.

Alll I can say is I use diluted Elmers white glue and that has never been my experience.  You don't want to High Altitude drop it on, but that shouldn't effect your results.  I have read in scenicking vegetation that matt medium is less prone a gloss sheen.  I have not used that.

Henry

COB Potomac & Northern

Shenandoah Valley

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  • From: SE. WI.
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Posted by mbinsewi on Tuesday, February 21, 2017 10:05 PM

I don't understand what your using the grout for.  I usually "glue" the track to the road bed using a latex caulk, ( because it's on foam board) spread the ballast, than use the age old dilluted glue and alcohol mixture to "set" the ballast.

Mike.

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  • From: Canada, eh?
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Posted by doctorwayne on Tuesday, February 21, 2017 10:06 PM

Because of its nature, you don't need to use dilute glue to hold grout or grout-containing ballast in place.  Instead, simply apply and arrange it as you would any other ballast, then mist it with "wet" water.  Once it fully dries, the ballast will be held in place.
I used various combinations of ballast with coloured grout (brown and black) on these test pieces:

I can't remember if the grout is sanded or un-sanded, but it does come in both varieties in a wide range of colours.

Wayne

  • Member since
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  • From: SE. WI.
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Posted by mbinsewi on Tuesday, February 21, 2017 10:08 PM

OK, I guess I just learned something about grout and ballast. Smile, Wink & Grin

Mike.

  • Member since
    June 2007
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Posted by riogrande5761 on Wednesday, February 22, 2017 7:55 AM

kelleywpns
 When I dropped on a diluted glue mixture on the other test, I ended up with almost a glossy “sheen” on the hardened grout after it dried.

You've just demonstrated the reason why many use matte medium instead of dilute white glue.  However, to be fair, most of the folks who use dilute white glue are using it on ballast rather than grout.

According to the Grout Wiki - "Grout is a particularly fluid form of concrete used to fill gaps.[1] Grout is generally a mixture of water, cement, and sand"

So you are attempting to cement something that already has cement in it, so that may be why you are getting the glossy effect showing up using the white glue.

I would suggest if you are using grout for ballast, you don't need to add glue since cement is already present in the mixture, rather all you need to do is "activate" it by gently soaking it with "wet" water.

I was curious as to others experience using grout and how they chose to adhere it to their layouts.  Also, looking for some input on how the dried grout has stood over time with your chosen method (i.e. did it continue to give off ‘dust’, chip, etc)?

Thanks for your time.

Mike

I've only used Polyblend Sanded Grout for base scenery texture for desert sand surface.  It seems pretty solid after I put it down on a wetted painted surface and then gently wetted it again.  No just at all.

Rio Grande.  The Action Road  - Focus 1977-1983

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Cape Cod, MA
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Posted by kelleywpns on Tuesday, February 28, 2017 8:54 PM

Thanks all for the tips and advice.

Some great advice here, I also received a tip to brush the area w/ thinnned white glue first and sift the grout on -- misting on some water afterwards if needed.  

Thanks again.

Mike

  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: Mpls/St.Paul
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Posted by wjstix on Friday, March 3, 2017 4:52 PM

Grout works very well for general scenery, particularly as a base - dark brown grout over say a plaster hill. It has some 'tooth' to it as it doesn't lie perfectly flat, so it's great for adding grass over it. Light brown / tan works well for beaches or along rivers or lakeshores.

http://cs.trains.com/mrr/m/mrr-layouts/2288403.aspx

Stix

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