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Removing a section of foamboard after glued

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  • Member since
    February 2017
  • 50 posts
Removing a section of foamboard after glued
Posted by northeast_train_guy_1965 on Saturday, February 18, 2017 7:30 AM

Hello Everyone,

 

The other day with the help of a friend I glued my foamboard down to a Tempered Hardboard top leaving the area to be cut out for water features unglued...or so I thought.

 

well, I was behind the foamboard lifting it over the table in a tight space in my basement, the table was out of my line of sight and my buddy was guiding it. My buddy, an experienced builder said hang on a second, you are light on your glue and he grabbed the glue gun. Afterwards he told me he knew I had a vision problem so he glued all the areas "I missed". Well, you pretty much can guess what he did ....glued the water feature areas.

 

Other than o ripping up the Hardboard and replacing it what is the best way to get the glued foamboard off the Hardboard?

  • Member since
    November 2015
  • 723 posts
Posted by UNCLEBUTCH on Monday, February 20, 2017 11:32 AM

You don't say what you used for glue, or how big a peace of foam.

But if all you need is the water areas, just cut/rip out what you need.You can then make it nice with mud or plaster. Thats the neat thing about foam,remove/replace as needed.

You do know, you don't need anything under the foam, and very little glue to hold it in place

  • Member since
    May 2010
  • From: SE. WI.
  • 8,253 posts
Posted by mbinsewi on Monday, February 20, 2017 2:27 PM

I'm with unclebutch,  just draw out the river where you want it, and cut/dig/gouge the foam out to make your river bed.  Maybe even a putty knife or similar to scape out off the foam from the hardboard, once you get down to it.  You'll probably be using some type of plaster or mud to creat the river bottom, and that will cover up what you couldn't scape off.  I put all of my foam board down, with a few beads of caulk, then figured out where I wanted scenery features, like streams and rivers, ditches, etc., than dug out the foam accordingly.

Mike.

EDIT:  A long serrated knife works good for shaping and cutting.

  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Vancouver Island, BC
  • 23,330 posts
Posted by selector on Monday, February 20, 2017 3:19 PM

Yep, get most of it out with pliers or something like that, then use a chisel or one of those oscillating buzz blades, whatever they are actually called, to get as much of what's left, including the dried adhesive, off the surface you need bared.  If your bench is free standing, you'll have to live with a lot of motion and creaking each time you try to dislodge the beads of adhesive with a chisel.  That's why I suggested the power tool.

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Central Vermont
  • 4,565 posts
Posted by cowman on Monday, February 20, 2017 6:36 PM

Welcome to the fourms!

What kind of water features are you planning?  Unless you are planning your feature to be in the bottom of a cut, you do not need to take out a lot of foam.  A deep lake can be done in a half inch deep area.  The trick is to use colors on the bottom to indicate depth, darker = deeper.  Don't  make your pours of water material to thick.  Several 1/8" pours of Envirotex, 2 part resin, Realistic Water or similar products is much better than one deep pour.  You can leave it clear or make it murky by adding color to some of the pours.

Good luck,

Richard

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