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Rails in roundhouse

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  • Member since
    August 2014
  • 6 posts
Rails in roundhouse
Posted by janf on Friday, February 10, 2017 9:58 AM

Hello from the netherlands,

I am installing a turntable and I like to know,

what is the best way to fix the rail in a the roundhouse?

Thanks.

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: west coast
  • 7,667 posts
Posted by rrebell on Friday, February 10, 2017 4:30 PM

Normally you run the tracks first based on theroundhouse openings.

  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Bedford, MA, USA
  • 21,483 posts
Posted by MisterBeasley on Friday, February 10, 2017 4:33 PM

Which roundhouse?  The Atlas one has a floor that takes Code 100 track, ties and all.  Others may differ.

It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse. 

  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Vancouver Island, BC
  • 23,330 posts
Posted by selector on Friday, February 10, 2017 5:57 PM

I have Atlas Code 100 bay tracks cut to length and adhered into place with a thin sheen of acrylic latex caulk smeared onto the underside of the ties.  Once the caulk was applied, I inverted the tracks, carefully slid them into their correct position, well abutted up against the back of the depression they rest in, and let the caulk cure for a few hours.  When they are fixed into place, drill and feed them near the outer edge of the apron in front of the double doors to each bay.  I then filled in around the portion extending to the lip of the turntable with plaster of Paris, painted to look like concrete.

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Friday, February 10, 2017 6:48 PM

My layout is HO using code 83 rails.  I used CA and glued the rails to the base.  I made the roundhouse base from ⅛” plywood and used 3/16” bass wood for the floor using Aleene’s Wood Glue (painted concrete, weathered to an oily work area).  I flush mounted the bass wood flush to the outside of the rails.  After the rails and floor were finished I cut out the center between the rails for a maintenance pit.
 
Edit:
 
I made a guide from an oak 1" x 2" x 15" with my tablesaw to keep the rails in alignment during the gluing process.
 
 
It has worked out very good and is still very solid after 8 years of use.
 
 
The roundhouse is made from two kitbashed Korber 104 three stall Kits.  I extended the length to accomidate my Cab Forwards.
  
 
Good Luck
 
 
 
Mel
 
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
 
  • Member since
    August 2014
  • 6 posts
Posted by janf on Saturday, February 11, 2017 8:37 AM

Thanks for your replys

My roundhouse is from Walthers, so I have to strip the ties and work with the rail only.

The roundhouse is almost a compleet bild with the roofs in place, that makes it extra difficult.

Jan.

  • Member since
    May 2007
  • From: North Myrtle Beach, SC
  • 995 posts
Posted by Beach Bill on Saturday, February 11, 2017 12:32 PM

Whatever the method, this is a process calling for measuring repeatedly before the installation!

On my roundhouse, I have the rail right down atop the Homosote that has been painted "concrete".   This allowed for me to carve in several inspection pits between the rails (before rail installation).   The actual rail attachment was the use of carefully applied Walthers Goo (a rubber-based cement) to the bottom of the rail.   Once certain that the position was right, I held a hot soldering iron atop the rail, which "seals" the Goo.    The roundhouse rail has survived 20+ years and one major move and is still solidly in place.

Bill

With reasonable men, I will reason; with humane men I will plead; but to tyrants I will give no quarter, nor waste arguments where they will certainly be lost. William Lloyd Garrison

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