Material to fill the gap between rails

[Painter Carver]

Several old articles and books that I have mention using Android Cement to fill the gaps between the ends of rails when leaving such a gap for purposes of electrail isolation or rail expansion. However, I understand that Android Cement is not longer available. Does anyone have a recommendation what to use instead?

Thanks,

[gmpullman]

I use a strip of Evergreen styrene, usually .015" or .020" thick. Then using super glue gel or a thick-bodied ACC, drop a little in the gap and place the styrene in the gap. It's OK if it is a little long since you can trim it with flush-cut nippers then lightly file or sand it once the ACC has set.

That's my method, anyway. Others may have their own method.

Have Fun, Ed

[j. c.]

pliobond or barge cement

[jrbernier]

  I have used styrene strip glued in with ACC or 90 second epoxy.  A few swipes with a fine cut mill file and you are good to go.  The styrene strip material prevents the gap from closing up.

Jim

[BigDaddy]

Painter Carver

I understand that Android Cement is not longer available

There is a revival of the great BBC series RED DWARF and Kryton is the Android.

  Ambroid is the name of the cement.  I'm not sure what makes it special, as ACC works just as well for your purpose but if you really want it...http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/112232856344?format=1&hlpv=1&cond=1&rmvSB=true

[Lone Wolf and Santa Fe]

I use the plastic insulated rail joiners made by Atlas.

[doctorwayne]

I use .020" thick ABS plastic sheet from Plastruct, as shown here...

I cut the gaps using a cut-off disc in a motor tool, then slip a small square of the material into the gap and apply some ca.  Once the glue has hardened, the excess plastic can be cut away and what's left can be carved to match the profile of the rail...

You can touch it up with paint similar to whatever you use on the sides of the rail, but even if you clean track, the spacers are barely visible due to the dark grey colour...

If you happen to cut the gap too wide, as has happened to one in the photo above, laminate two pieces of plastic together, then widen the gap to suit.  The dark grey colour makes it pretty-well disappear.

Wayne

[Painter Carver]

Thanks, eveyone for your ideas. They certainly answer my question and give me plenty to go on.

Regards

 

[Medina1128]

I use a light duty cutoff disk from Dremel. Since I also use their extension drive cable, I'm able to get the disk closer to perpendicular. After cutting the gap, I CA (Super Glue) a thin strip of "FOR SALE" sign from Wal-Mart into the gap. Once it sets up, I trim the top off with sprue cutters, then trim the inner and outer rail web to fit.

NOTE: ALWAYS USE EYE PROTECTION WHEN USING CUTOFF DISKS!! I used goggles once, and when the disk exploded, a piece of it hit me in the neck. I NOW use a full face shield.

[richhotrain]

Lone Wolf and Santa Fe

I use the plastic insulated rail joiners made by Atlas.

 

Same here.  They go on just like metal rail joiners and cannot even be seen once the track is ballasted.

Rich

[BroadwayLion]

LION uses air-gaps. Him have no problem with that.

 

ROAR

[Painter Carver]

Thanks for mentioning that. I noticed that even without anything to fill the gaps my cars seem to move over the area without any problem which, of course, makes one question the need for any type of filling at all.

 

 

[jjdamnit]

Hello all,

I remember reading somewhere that the plastic bread ties work well in the gap.

Cement them in and then trim after the adhesive has dried.

Hope this helps.

[tomikawaTT]

I still have a few orange Atlas rail joiners, which I'll use right up front when I finish the trackwork at Tomikawa.  When I got them I thought they looked butt ugly.  Then I discovered a prototype insulated joint the same color.  The same manufacturer provides them in black and baby blue (!!)

By all means put something in the gap if it's intended for electrical isolation.  If it's just a place where two rail ends meet it might be wiser to leave it open.  Changes in temperature and humidity can cause rail ends to close or open gaps - or cause the rail to buckle if the gap wasn't wide enough.

Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)

[Painter Carver]

Thanks for the last two responses. My gaps are intended for electrical isolation and I have used plastic rail joiners so will definitely fill the gaps.

[DigitalGriffin]

Thin styrene strip, trimmed & sanded after the glue dries.

They also have plastic rail joiners which a gap spacer in the middle of the joint.

[DigitalGriffin]

Painter Carver

Thanks for mentioning that. I noticed that even without anything to fill the gaps my cars seem to move over the area without any problem which, of course, makes one question the need for any type of filling at all.

Joiners help around corners.  But they help reduce the the "clickity clack" and car rocking.