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making dirt roads and lots

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Posted by chutton01 on Thursday, January 12, 2017 3:19 PM

BroadwayLion

LION used brick dust, but then maybe you do not have a brick building that is deteriorating<snip>Still have a bucket of the stuff eventhou a subway layout does not need any.

A NYC subway layout set in the 70s/80s certainly would...

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Posted by Lonnie Utah on Thursday, January 12, 2017 7:28 AM

Times like this is when I love live living in the desert. Your natural soil for landscaping is already prebaked... :) 

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Posted by wp8thsub on Wednesday, January 11, 2017 5:55 PM

Thanks for the kind words, all.

jmk3438
What color sand should i get?   im thinking of going to a home depot and picking up some play sand and then doing some dry brushing. 

Pick a color that matches the area you're modeling if possible.  I use sand dug up in various locales, but play sand also works.  Paver sand and other products sold in the home center can work fine too.  Ground cover material can always be painted to match the effect you want.

Rob Spangler

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Posted by BroadwayLion on Wednesday, January 11, 2017 9:58 AM

LION used brick dust, but then maybe you do not have a brick building that is deteriorating. Got a whole bucket full of the stuff, spread it where I needed it wet it down with a thin white glued formula (with photographic wetting agents). Need to paint it a bit depending on the look you want. Thin washes of color will work just fine.  Still have a bucket of the stuff eventhou a subway layout does not need any.

ROAR

The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.

Here there be cats.                                LIONS with CAMERAS

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Posted by hon30critter on Wednesday, January 11, 2017 2:05 AM

Hi Rob:

Your gravel lots and tire marks are very well done!

wp8thsub
I've never bothered cooking it to kill bugs or microbes, but that's me.  

I guess I'm a bit over cautious when it comes to that stuff but baking the dirt can't do any harm. With my luck, if I didn't bake the dirt, I would be the one with mold growing.

Dave

I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!

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Posted by jmk3438 on Wednesday, January 11, 2017 12:20 AM

Good job Rob.  i like your method...

What color sand should i get?   im thinking of going to a home depot and picking up some play sand and then doing some dry brushing. 

 

So my guess would be to paint the surafce with earth tone paint, then sprinkiling the sand evenly over area and then drybrushing? 

 

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Posted by doctorwayne on Tuesday, January 10, 2017 11:10 PM

wp8thsub
...I've taken to dry-brushing acrylic paint for tire tracks as in the above scene.

That method looks very effective, Rob.  Thumbs UpThumbs Up

Wayne

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Posted by jmk3438 on Tuesday, January 10, 2017 9:58 PM

how bout spring some bug spray in the dirt mix before appying?  thias will kill all the bugs 

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Posted by jmk3438 on Tuesday, January 10, 2017 9:57 PM

maybe spray a little pesticide in the dirt mix before applying 

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Posted by wp8thsub on Tuesday, January 10, 2017 7:15 PM

I use fine dirt or sand for gravel lots and roads.  I've never bothered cooking it to kill bugs or microbes, but that's me.  

I've taken to dry-brushing acrylic paint for tire tracks as in the above scene.

Rob Spangler

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Posted by doctorwayne on Tuesday, January 10, 2017 5:21 PM

I've used real dirt, but it was extemely fine...actually dust, as it was from an area in a steel mill with heavy truck traffic.

Another useful product, and easier for the average modeller to obtain, is unsanded tile grout.  It's available in a wide range of dirt-like colours, and cheap compared to hobby products. 
Below is a photo of some ballast tests for industrial sidings and railroad service areas.  If I recall correctly, from left to right is a mix of black and brown grout, then mostly real dirt, followed by ballast with some dirt and brown grout, and, at right, ballast with black grout:

This one doesn't represent dirt, but the tracks on the near side of the turntable were originally ballasted using Woodland Scenics "Cinders".  Because the particles were too big, they looked more like black gravel, so, some years later, I added a layer of black grout.  It's simply dumped in place and spread using a soft 1/2" brush, then misted with some "wet" water.

Wayne

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Posted by 7j43k on Tuesday, January 10, 2017 2:55 PM

A very long time ago, I scratchbuilt a two stall enginehouse on a base with track.  One track went out the back into an open space.  Well, that area needed some kind of dirt. 

Oh.  Did I say I was a lad of 17?

Well, I wandered around the house looking for inspiration.  AHA!  The spice rack.  There was a bottle with stuff that was just the right texture and color.  DRIED MUSHROOMS!  It looked great.  Then the mold spores hit (or whatever).  The whole area was covered with a very fine bit of fuzz or something.  It looked even BETTER.

I will leave it up to you if you'd care to recreate my lucky find.

Oh, yeah.  That building and base were scrapped quite a while ago.  I had neglected to allow enough side-to-side clearance for a locomotive to fit.  Embarrassing.  I tend to check those things a bit more, now.

 

Ed

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Posted by RR_Mel on Tuesday, January 10, 2017 1:04 PM

I would suggest visiting the Arizona Rock & Mineral Site before using dirt.  Their products are very realistic looking at a reasonable price.
 
 
Click on “Shop”
 
I’ve been using their products for many years, their ballasts work very good for gravel roads too.  Their Asphalt power makes very realistic paved roads.
 
 Edit:
 
 
Dirt and gravel meet, using Arizona R & M #138-2 CSX, Southern Pacific, Wabash Ballast.
 
 
Narrow dirt road using Arizona R & M #123-0 Tan Granite Powder.
 
 
The paved road is Arizona R & M #1030 Asphalt, ignore the vehicle lighting text, old picture from my blog.
 
 
Mel
 
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
 
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Posted by UNCLEBUTCH on Tuesday, January 10, 2017 12:20 PM

Real dirt is all I use,along with fines from the driveway.Dry and screened. After its set in paint, wetted with wet water ,and glued,I can't believe any bugs will live . My RR is in the basement of an old farmhouse , NO climate controll atall no issues last 10 years. I have had to steal dirt from the wife's potted plants now and then without problems, [untill she found out]

I see no need to cook it

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Posted by trainnut1250 on Tuesday, January 10, 2017 12:11 PM

I’ve used real dirt, rocks and other natural materials for many years. My local train group has used these items collectively for decades. We don’t bake or otherwise nuke the materials and haven’t had any problems. Things get glued down pretty thoroughly in the application process. I would suggest that if baking the dirt or adding antifungal agents to the glue mix makes you more comfortable, it can’t hurt.

 

Guy

see stuff at: the Willoughby Line Site

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Posted by selector on Tuesday, January 10, 2017 10:07 AM

I used screened garden soil on my second layout, and rather extensively.  All I did was to keep it dry.  I didn't treat mine in any way.  What went through a discarded pair of my wife's hose was what I used, but I mixed it with some plaster powder.  I sprayed that liberally with a light carpenter's glue solution with some dish detergent added to ensure it didn't bead.  I had that layout for six years before I dismantled it.  I never did find that anything wanted to emerge from it, or to grow on it as a source of nourishment.  I kept my layout space's environment controlled with a dehumidifier (it was in our basement on the wet coast...that's west coast.

Screen it, apply it, and then keep it from getting above 60% humidity.  That was my machine's kick-in point, and it worked for six years.

If you don't want to bake it (talk about stink!!), or nuke it (same diff), but still would rather treat it somehow...just in case...go to your wine brew store and pick up a package of sodium or potassium meta-bisulphite, a white powder used in solution with water to sterilize instruments and vessels used to make wine...and also to stabilize the wine itself just prior to bottling.  It is lethal to spores, viruses, and bacteria, even in light concentrations.  Just mix your spray adhesive with some of that, say a teaspoon in every half-liter of spray adhesive, and when you soak the spread soil to adhere it into position, you'll sterilize it at the same time.

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Posted by hon30critter on Tuesday, January 10, 2017 2:15 AM

Yes, you need to kill the bugs regardless of the season. The big bugs will be gone but the mold spores will still be there. I would not recommend using a microwave because there might be some metallic content which could make things pretty exciting. I would also recommend using a strong magnet to go through the dirt either before or after baking it to get rid of any metal particles that might get attracted to your motor magnets.

Dave

I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!

  • Member since
    December 2011
  • 44 posts
making dirt roads and lots
Posted by jmk3438 on Monday, January 9, 2017 11:32 PM

Im thinking of using real dirt for lot and roads; however, whats the most realistic approach to this?

If i decide to go with dirt and now that its winter will i need to bake or nuke the dirt in order to kill all the bugs ? 

 

 

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