Has anyone used this instead of plaster or drywall mud? Pro's/Con's?
Going through my daughters old art supplies and came accross a little left in a bag. Seems to be really workable and solid with not much mess as the others.
I always use it for any landforms besides rocks where plaster is the better choice. It works well, can be drilled or sawed, doesn't chip and doesn't weigh much.
Michael
The Breitenbach - Rosenheim Railroad V3
I need to get more. How's the weather in Bakersfield? I am originally from Vallejo. Love to visit when I can.
Jerrys HO I need to get more. How's the weather in Bakersfield? I am originally from Vallejo. Love to visit when I can.
I like it, have used it for some land forms over a foam base. Also mixed it a tad thin and poured it into a large, crumpled tin foil form, when partially dry, stood it up against a verticle foam wall, on a curve and came up with a vey nice, 6" high, 20" long, rock cut at one end of my view block.
Good luck,
Richard
I decided to try Sculptamold on my land forms, over both foam and over plaster cloth on cardboard strips. I like it enough to continue with it, though you will find other threads here (google on the subject: "site: cs.trains (subject)") where people have other preferences.
This is the (AMACO) type I used:
http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/American-Art-Clay-Company-41819M-Sculptamold-Mater-p/amaco-41819m.htm
There are recipes for "ground goop" where you can make your own stuff. I found the components (includes vermiculite IIRC) but haven't tried it yet.
The Sculptamold is easy to use, just need to learn what thickness to achieve, not difficult. The texture after dry depends on how thick when mixed and how much it is worked with the spatula used. Kinda like how much you work concrete. I think it's pretty easy to attain a result with a texture that will end up ok, since I then paint it for a base color and (at some point, maybe 2017) will be adding overlays such as ground foam, grasses, bushes, etc.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
~250 lbs later, Sculptamold is still my go-to land-forming material. I usually use an armature of pink styrofoam as the base material.
When I was making lots of scenery, I purchased it in the convenient, economical 50 lb size. One of the good things about Sculptamold is that it keeps well and is ready to use whenever you want to return to using it, a big advanatage over plaster.
Sculptamold is the brandname that Amaco uses for this product. No one else makes stuff quite like it, although a few come close.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
When not doing rocks, I prefer to add earth color when mixing the batch.......no need to paint later.
Bob
Don't Ever Give Up
what do you use to tint the sculptamold an earth color? & does it affect the drying time?
thanks FA-1
I tried it recently for the first time. I used a palette knife to apply it over pink foam and it was like putting icing on a cake and it looks half decent. It does take a little longer to dry, but that is not a disadvantage. I will use more and more in the future.
I recommend it, I used it to build smaller land formations and fill in the gaps between plaster rock molds
I have used the material for both covering foam and for castings. Just a matter of how the ratio of water to Scuptamold. A lot lighter and easier than using Hydrocal. (Given the number and length of tunnels I have, lots of tunnel liners are needed.)
Sculptamold is EXCELLENT when working with foam (blue/pink extruded styrofoam, and even white beaded styrofoam), as it fills in gaps and smoothes out rough areas.
If you want to make rocks or castings, hydrocal plaster is what you need to use. But you can even attach those castings to scupltamold.
fa-1 what do you use to tint the sculptamold an earth color? & does it affect the drying time? thanks FA-1
I used cheap craft paints I had on hand from Wal-Mart such as Americana and or Apple Barrel. Use dark colors as the Sculptamold is going to lighten them. I had dark chocolate, raw and burnt umber, and I think I may have added a little black. You really can't go wrong by just adding color to the mix until you get what you want. You can of course add more Sculptamold and water if you get the wrong color.
The paint thins the Sculptamold and as for drying time I didn't notice any difference since I let it dry over night.
Try it and I think you will be pleased.
I've also heard that Structolite is popular, or a mix of Sculptamold and Structolite. Can anyone share some insight on this? I've never tried either (but looking forward to doing so).
speedybee I've also heard that Structolite is popular, or a mix of Sculptamold and Structolite. Can anyone share some insight on this? I've never tried either (but looking forward to doing so).
I haven't used it but at the Timonium train show, the scenery clinic guy spoke of it and used it in his demonstation. I is definitely something some like to use.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
Structolite is a form of plaster that is typically used as a means to lighten and insulate in situations where this is needed. Sculptamold is already light and no one much worries about its insulating factor on a model RR, although maybe it might be enough of a reduction on a portable module to make it worthwhile. I've heard of people using it, but haven't tried it myself.
Mixed with Sculptamold, I think achieving a different texture is what people are mostly after when using Structolite. It may also cause the Sculptamold to set up harder, due to it being a form of plaster, which some may want for various reasons.
Perlite is what makes Structolite light and insulative, as well as providing the texture. Perlite can be found by itself in lawn and garden stores, etc, as it's used as a soil-lightening additive there. Like with plaster, etc, be cautious about dust, but I'll bet it's lots cheaper that way than as Structolite. It would also provide the grit some are after without causing any difference in setting time in Sculptamold, so that's another option to consider.
Love the stuff. Buy it in bulk from Dick Blick.
Mike
MikeFF Love the stuff. Buy it in bulk from Dick Blick.
Mike,
Yes, that's where mine comes from now. Great prices (50 lbs was just less than $100 last time I got a big bag) and it goes a long way. So long as you close the bag up after getting what you need, it keeps just fine until needed.