Quick question on the steel studs. What kind of bracket is best to support the layout. An should a 2×2 lagged bolted to the wall studs also used as well?
Thank you all for the information. I just recieved in the mail the copy of MR 2005 issue with the detail article on steel bench work. I actually thought of using this a few years ago an my ex-brother inlaw whom was a contractor thought it was poor choice. I have done some additional research as suggested starting point using the Wildcat Central and I have spoken via email to the builder of the Clark fork layout which is not the providence river branch. Both have a lot of items I like. Now it back to the books. I going to build a small scale model of the layout. Hopefully I will have some progress in a few weeks. Thanks again.
A second for Speedybee's recommendation of steel stud framework. I replied to another post: http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/t/260250.aspx
with these comments:
My benchwork was built with material that is always straight, uniform, light weight, easy to work with, dustless, unaffected by humidity, and is strong and less expensive than wood.. I use steel studs. The idea and methods were outlined in an article by JonathonMiner in the April 2000 issue of MR. Instead of foam sub roadbed in the article, I use plywood risers and subroadbed. The suporting legwork is 2X2 wood legframes, sealed and painted. I am very happy with the use for 12 years now. No saging or warping, everything remains level and aligned.
Another more extensive article is by Bill Boyd and Art Jones in the May 2005 MR that should also be of interest for anyone considering this way of model railroad foundation construction.
Thanks,
the lack of air conditioning is temporary due to re-modeling and trying to figure out what we are doing with seven teenagers in 5 Bedrooms ( 4 girls and 3 boys). So, the layout is going in the garage until then. I was reading the updated bench work the other day regarding the metal studs I thought about it but not familiar with the other product and I would have still put up studs because of drywall that is already there. I am working on getting a utility Shed built in the back that would be my final layout and hobby shop. I will keep you posted.
The Thompson's product is specifically labeled for outdoor use. Not for a closed room.
Many folks have had good luck simply painting benchwork with indoor latex paint.
"Dimensional" lumber ripped from plywood won't move much, if at all, with humidity changes.
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Have you considered building the framework out of metal studs and XPS instead of wood?
If you do go with wood, I second the caution about not using Thompsons indoors. I don't use any oil based products inside anymore. For indoor furniture I use a water based polyurethane. It still produces fumes, but much much less so than oil based sealers, and it dries quickly.
But you'd also need to coat literally every square inch of wood. Otherwise, the humidity changes will cause some areas of wood to expand more than other areas, resulting in some weird warping. Several coats of sealer over a large area will not be cheap. Overall I'd suggest either not sealing the wood at all, or using metal studs + XPS which won't be affected by humidity.
Is this layout going to be in an air-conditioned space? These days, I thought just about every building and structure in the Southeast had AC, including cattle barns. If it is, the wood should aclimatize in "awhile" and remain pretty stable.
If it ain't, yer gonna have a pretty unpleasant layout room.
Ed
I wouldn't apply Thompsons or any other deck sealer in the house because of the fumes and VOCs.
A product like Kiltz would probably be better.
If your layout room is air conditioned, you might want to paint the end grains of the wood after its cut.
If you can be assured that the product actually does seal the wood from water vapour penetration:
If the use of screws and other fasteners doesn't compromise that seal overmuch;
If you have swings in humidity ranging between 30% - 85%+ sustained for many days;
If you don't intend to manage the layout environment with HVAC or a dehumidifier/humidifier;
...then, yes, quite possibly.
Good day and happy new years:
I have mapped out my space and working on mini layout to finalize my track plan. Because this will be built in Georgia with heat and humidity. Would it be worth sealing the basic frame work with a product like Thompson water seal that is design for decking?
Thanks