Hung most of the brackets for the 17x11 layout except for the crossbeam. Might just flip a simple shelf bracket for that. The question is the width of the shelf is only going to be 8 inches. Is there a certain plywood I should use for this? Multi layer and sanded?
I would use 3/4" plywood. 1/2" might sag between the brackets over time. Don't use the cheap stuff with only 5 plys from the big box lumber yards. I would use 13 ply birch - some lumberyards can rip this to 8" widths for you.
Good luck
Paul
the number of plys makes a big difference. A lot of 1/2 inch I have seen only has 3 plys. I usually use 5/8 or 3/4. They heve 5 or 7 plys.
You have longer spans and a narrow shelf. The 13 ply 3/4" may be the way to go for your application.
with hundreds of dollars worth of track and trains up there don't skimp on the base structure.
Steve
Plywood shelves always sag unless you incorporate a stiffener. I usually make my own, which are crude but do the job.
Here is an example of one way to do it using what appears to be a commercial product. Sorry, I don't know the source.
I would also have one under the rear edge, but that's just me. I tend to overbuild. On the bottom of wide shelves I also edge glue something like a 1 x 2 down the center.
CG
Whatever you use, I suggest you give it a good coat of sealer to prevent warping.
Have fun,
Richard
I used shelves made by John Sterling, they come in (IIRC) 8", 12" and 16" widths, 3' and 4' lengths. I set the uprights for the brackets every 18" and use 36" by 16" shelves. On each bracket, I screwed on a 1x3 section of wood about 1/2" thick on top, so the shelves sit on them (they're sold in bunches in the big box store as garden stakes). I drill 2 holes down from the top of the shelf at each end (where they join) and put in wood screws to secure them in place.
Other than having a 1x3 along the front edge (more for looks than anything), I don't have any bracing. First shelf sections were put in back in 2008, no sign of sagging yet. They cost more than plywood, but I think ease of use and durability make it worth it.
Adding 1x2s under the plywood will stiffen it up just fine. Use glue and finishing nails, nailed from the top, into the 1x part of the sticks to make a shelf section. The sticks should run along the front and the back parallel and separated at a point that they can be attached to the brackets from the bottom. Those kinds of brackets should have one hole at the tip and two towards the wall.
You will see the side of the plywood, but big box stores sell rolls of iron-on trim veneer to finish the sides of plywood if you want a cleaner look
- Douglas
I used 1/4"plywood but I am just making a 2 1/2 ' x 6' small switching layout in N Scale. Was hoping to get it done by Christmas for the grandkids but My body says it aint happening jack!! Come back later....
Wondering why not just use pine or other hardwood that does not need stiffness enhancement?
Joe Staten Island West
joe323 Wondering why not just use pine or other hardwood that does not need stiffness enhancement?
Minor point, but pine is a softwood. Pine shelving will warp. It is not dimensionally stable like plywood.
I recently bought some edge glued pine panels intended for shelving. They are much more resistant to warping than plain pine boards, yet virtually every one of them in stock in Lowes was at least somewhat warped. They are also twice as expensive at plain pine boards.
Hardwood shelving is much more expensive than plywood, and it too is not as dimensionally stable.
Virtually every shelf needs stiffening anyway no matter the material, unless it is very short or very thick.
robkoz H
H
I'm guessing that there's more to this than simply choosing a good material for this layout, as no one has yet commented on layout height.If this is simply a place to have a train running (no scenery or operations in the traditional sense), then perhaps something more stable than wood or plywood would make more sense. How about steel studs? Chuck (tomikawaTT) uses this material for much of his layout, supposedly with good results. If you need the full 8" width, either use two side-by-side or use a single one with plywood atop, and the track on that. No sagging and no complicated construction.
Wayne
CentralGulf joe323 Wondering why not just use pine or other hardwood that does not need stiffness enhancement? Minor point, but pine is a softwood. Pine shelving will warp. It is not dimensionally stable like plywood. I recently bought some edge glued pine panels intended for shelving. They are much more resistant to warping than plain pine boards, yet virtually every one of them in stock in Lowes was at least somewhat warped. They are also twice as expensive at plain pine boards. Hardwood shelving is much more expensive than plywood, and it too is not as dimensionally stable. Virtually every shelf needs stiffening anyway no matter the material, unless it is very short or very thick. CG
Thanks I had my benchwork built by a professional so did not have to choose the actual material which is plywood. Only request I made was for homosote on top.