Cutting Corners

[tomikawaTT]

My wider peninsula has a 'half an octagon' end, hard corners at 45 degree angles.  It has to support the two Main (CTC analog) panels and the main electrical distribution panel.

My narrower peninsula will have (approximately) one foot radius circular corners, when I get to the 'install fascia' line on the construction checklist.  The main scenic element is a high, steep ridge; no turnouts or anything along that stretch.

At the other end of the room the main entry aisle passes between two 90 degree corners, one hard and one with a short radius curve formed from an 8 inch diameter cardboard tube.  Since the hard corner is my cassette dock I can't do much about it.

In all cases hard corners (including hard inside corners) are directly supported by framework, while the round corners are only supported at their points of tangency.

Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)

[wickman]

I think the only reason needed to make benchwork high to start with is if lower  staging or modeling level is required. I'm so much happier that I lowered the  benchwork, and this time around I'm going to cut the corners back before laying track and roadbed, so many lessons learned.

[doctorwayne]

Pretty-well all of the lower level of my layout can be operated from a rolling office-type chair, and that would include the long grade up to the partial second level, although I usually walk, following the train, for that latter part.
The second level requires operators to stand (there's currently not much more than the track in place, but it is operational) and to work on the upper level requires a step stool or step ladder.

Wayne

[wickman]

Thanks Wayne again very helpful. After my wife had made a comment of the new layout benchwork looking like it was higher than the last , I did a reassessment and decided to lower the main benchwork. 

 

[doctorwayne]

Lynn, the benchwork (support structure for the 1"x4" open grid) is mostly 2"x4"s leftover from when I built this house and it's 31" high.  The 3/4" subroadbed is on risers pretty-well everywhere, but at many varying levels in order to get to either the upper or lower levels.  
The partial second level is supported mostly on brackets lag-bolted to the wall studs, and its top surface is at about 59".  Track there is on cork or directly atop the plywood - no grades worth mentioning.

Wayne

[wickman]

Thanks guys, all good input and very helpful. Wayne your photos really helped.

Wayne just curious, how high is your layout benchwork?

[doctorwayne]

wickman

Just wondering  how much you's that did fascia board whether on solid top benchwork or grid style like I'm doing, how much did you's cut the outside corners back to wrap the fascia board around? What worked best?

 

I used open grid on most of the layout and a plywood top on the partial upper level.  Depending on the curve desired, the amount removed from (or left off completely) varies.

On this corner...

 

 

...the lower open grid is cut back 8" on both faces:

 

 

...while that on the upper level is cut back about 15" to the right and 13" to the left:

 

 

 

This curve in the fascia wraps around a support post...

 

 

...and is cut back in two places to accommodate the post...

 

 

 

...and allow a transition into a reverse curve:

 

 

The area on the opposite side of the aisle has a somewhat matching profile...

 

 

...with a cut-back off about 11" on the near joist and 17" on the next one:

 

 

That curve leads into another which forms the end of a peninsula, and the open grid was built to suit the 34" radius of the track which follows around that curve:

 

 

 

rrinker

...If the fascia does not extend above the base level, make sure there is sufficient space between the track and the edge so that a derailing loco or car won't dive into the monster canyon....

 

As you can see, I'm not overly concerned about the monster canyon, but, once I get around to installing the plaster-over-window-screen-terrain, the chances of disaster will be cut in half. 

 

Wayne

[rrinker]

 The space outside of a curve might be a good place to put an industry and siding, but you don't want your layout to be a total cliche and have this same arrangement at EVERY corner. So on some corners, keep the benchwork square and bend the fascia around, on others, cut it back to round off the corner (handy in narrow areas - it makes the aisle wider). Mix and match. If the fascia does not extend above the base level, make sure there is sufficient space between the track and the edge so that a derailing loco or car won't dive into the monster canyon. That's really your guide point as to how far back to cut things - leave enough space to prevent disasters and also fill in some scenery, anything else would be in many cases just wasted space. Even lopping the corner off at a 45 degree angle can save a lot of space, although it will be harder to make a curved corner. A 45 degree flat isn't really so bad. A sharp 90 degree corner though - that's an accident waiting to happen when someone gets jostled into the sharp edge. Avoid at all costs.

                               --Randy

 

[BroadwayLion]

If vertical corners, LION had good luck of setting it up, draw a line following the contour, and then cutting it flat on the bench with  a jig saw.

Curves around the table, just mont it on one side and keep working until it is all up.

 

ROAR

[wickman]

Just wondering  how much you's that did fascia board whether on solid top benchwork or grid style like I'm doing, how much did you's cut the outside corners back to wrap the fascia board around? What worked best?