The Computer is your Friend. Select the Font you want, Use the "centered" mode and then use letter spacing (part of the chraster or paragraph tool depending on your program). Just follow the spacing on this to apply your dry letters.
LION mostly prints the signs on lable paper and affix that to the train since many lines print their logos on metal and attach that to the equipment.
LION had good luck by printing the entire side of an LIRR car on the printer and pasting it to the equipment.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
I print my own decals, so that a name or any other string of letters will be a single decal, not a set of letters.
Unfortunately, printing decals in white or very light colors will not work. I realized tis very early on, so any custom color scheme I use is dark lettering on a white background.
You don't need fancy equipment. I printed these decals on an inkjet printer right from my home computer.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
One small reminder. Round letters are usually slightly taller than square letters. That's done because, if they are all the same heighth, round letters end up looking smaller. So they make round letters slightly taller to compensate for that.
That means, if you draw a line as a guide, you actually need to put the round letters slightly below the line so that you get a little of the extra height above and below the square letters. That's another good reason to follow Eric's advice and leave a little bit of space between your guide or tape line and the lettering.
Jim
If you're using dry transfers, you can put a line of tape above or below where you want your lettering, then mark it up to determine where things should go.
I wouldn't put the tape right on the line the letters will follow, but leave a bit of space. Then you don't have to worry about pulling the letters off when you remove the tape.
This will help you keep things level, as well as in line.
Eric
Another way is to use tracing paper and trace the letters so that you have the words you want to apply. Then, use the tracing paper as a guide when you apply the actual lettering. It gives you an idea of how long each word is and where to begin each word on your model.
I've done it with water-slide decals as single letters. Generally, you apply the two end letters first. You might as well let them dry in place. Then you add in the "fill" letters, keeping them damp so you can move them around. And then you arrange them so they look right. It is at once very easy and very difficult. The good news is that if you just can't get it right, you can apply decal solvent and remove them all--you're not stuck with an irreversible mess.
An easier but more expensive route is to get custom decals made. If you pick out your font, your lettering layout, the font size, and the overall length, it is possible for the maker to get it just right for you. I don't know if every decal maker can "adjust" letters, but some should be able to. I just did it myself a week ago. Not for decals, but for photoengraving some signage. So I know it's possible, 'cause I did it. And I DID adjust the letters to fit.
Ed
Hi, Harold
I have also struggled with letter spacing while making building signs.
What you are refering to is called Kerning in the solid type field.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kerning
What helps me is to use a word processor program and spell out what you want the sign to read, in the typeface that matches, then study the spacing that the program applies to the lettering. Some of the "fonts" are monospace and others are kerned.
You can print the one that looks most pleasing to you and use it as your guide.
https://designschool.canva.com/blog/kerning/
Good Luck,
I need to add my railroad name to a loco. My question is this
How do you get the proper spacing of the letters? I have used letter transfers but the spacing was not perfect. Is there a proper method?
Harold