tortiose switch machines

[Sperandeo]

I use even thicker wire, .047", to drive the unhinged points of my handlaid turnouts, and I'd recommend this larger wire for general use because it gives a more positve action with little need for fine adjustments. I've even mounted Tortoise motors driving turnouts though a 3/4" plywood splice plate below the 3/4" plywood roadbed and .240" HomaBed roadbed.

.To mount the motors accurately every time, use the template that comes on the instruction sheet – if you've already thrown that away, you'll get a new one when you buy your next Tortoise. Actually I used the paper template to make one from ABS plastic, with a locating rod that sticks up into a the pilot hole I drill down from the top of the roadbed where the switch rod (the prototype term for what model railroaders call a "throw bar") will go. Works like a charm.

Happy holidays,

Andy

[cwclark]

I use .039 spring wire, drill a hole that the wire will fit into the existing tortoise with a pin vise and insert the screw (you can get the spring wire and the drill bit at a good LHS) ...I then take a scrap piece of 1/4" plywood or hard board that is about 6" x 4", place the template over it and drill out the holes in the wood....after sanding it smooth, I then mount the tortoise to the plywood with small wood screws...now it's time to mount it to the turnout..I place the tortoise under the table and feed the spring wire through the turnout point rails tie hole and align the tortoise so that it moves the turnout point rails properly...then, while holding it in place, I take my drill and make two pilot holes from the top of the layout into the plywood that the tortoise is secured to under the table and then run two sheetrock screws into the pilot holes with an electric screw driver...the sheetrock screws screwed into the plywood that holds the tortoise in place saves a lot of time and pain to the old bod' when trying to line up and mount the tortoise from the bottom of the layout...Chuck

[rrinker]

QUOTE: Originally posted by SP4449

I mounted 16 tortoise motors on the yard of our modular layout. The table has 1/2 inch plywood, 1/2 inch homosote, cork roadbed and the wire still came up through a hole I drilled in the center of the throw arm of the Atlas turnouts. There was enough of the wire sticking up, it had to be cut so as not to interfere with the Kadee coupler's uncoupling arm as the trains passed through the turnout. Be sure the wire is not hiding along side the throw arm instead of in the hole making it seem like the wire is too short.

And ditto rrinker's comment: use the next size larger diameter wire. The reliability of the operation is worth the time spent drilling the hole and bending the wire.

Although I have to admit, I'm not using my own advice. But I am using extruded foam board as my benchwork, and I mount my Tortoises from the top. I cut out small squares of Radio Shack perf board, markt he location on the foam, cut out the opening with a cutting bit attachment on the Dremel (basically makes the Dremel a mini-Roto-Zip) set tot he thichness of the perf board (1/16"). A router bit might be better as it would remove the material faster, but the router attachment is bigger, clumsier, and more expensive. I then use a knife to cut the center for the body of the Tortoise. The end result is a flush with the top of the benchwork mounting, and the Tortoise wire only has to exend through the 1/16" of the perfboard and the roadbed, so I use the stock wire, it's plenty stiff over that short distance.

--Randy

[TBat55]

Several people have mentioned that thicker 0.032" piano wire works better than the wire that comes with the tortoises. As to mounting, Walters sells a hardboard drill template for the holes (I have one and like it) while others say double sided foam tape works well (never tried it).

[SP4449]

I mounted 16 tortoise motors on the yard of our modular layout. The table has 1/2 inch plywood, 1/2 inch homosote, cork roadbed and the wire still came up through a hole I drilled in the center of the throw arm of the Atlas turnouts. There was enough of the wire sticking up, it had to be cut so as not to interfere with the Kadee coupler's uncoupling arm as the trains passed through the turnout. Be sure the wire is not hiding along side the throw arm instead of in the hole making it seem like the wire is too short.

And ditto rrinker's comment: use the next size larger diameter wire. The reliability of the operation is worth the time spent drilling the hole and bending the wire.

[rrinker]

You're on the right track, you have to drill the hole for the wire a little larger. The size drill depends on the size wire you used. You don;t have to use super thick wire, one or two sizes up fromt he stock should be plenty stiff enough to operate the turnout. Thre's plenty of 'meat' around the existing hole, but work carefully and drill slowly. Use a pin vise, not a power drill - it's not like you have to drill a 1/2" deep hole here. Since the original hole is there to guide you, this is only goign to take a few seconds per machine to enlarge the hole a tiny bit.
Although, I am somewhat surprised that the stock wire doesn't stick up past the machine more than an inch and a quarter or so, it SEEMS longer to me. I don't have one here in the office with me to look at. The slightly stiffer wire will work better anyway, by helping keep the points pushed tightly against the closure rails.

--Randy

[Anonymous]

I was able to successfully mount one of the switch machines today. I used the 1/4" hole for the throw bar as a reference point. I then drilled 4 small pilot holes for the #4 screws. I drilled the holes, mounted the switch machine and threaded the wire.
The problem was that the wire appears to be too short. I have 1/2" plywood base, 1/2" subroadbed and a cork roadbed. The wire was not long enough. I had tried a slightly longer wire but in a slightly larger gauge. BIG MISTAKE!!! I was not able to screw in the lower screw on the switch machine to hold the wire. So, when I actived the switch machine the wire turned like a clock from the 10 o'clock position to the 7 o'clock position (and back again). It seems that the wire enclosed with the Circuitron kit is THE ONLY GAUGE that I can get to work. Are there alternatives?
Also, what is with the need to use a pinvise to drill a hole in the distal (black botton/mechanical) part? What size drill bit should I use?
There must be an easier way to do this. I have a fairly large yard with a turntable/roundhouse, turning wye, and several industrial sidings that need switch machines. It seems like an unbelievably hard task.
Any help and suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
THANK YOU.