I have decided to install the plastic window glass. Just using the Walthers supplied glass. In the past, I have used glue, but I hate it because it smears. I have tried canopy glue but that is like waiting for milk to dry. So, I tried something new today - - hot glue. A small dab on two ends of each window and that is it. Love it. A new, now tried and true technique.
Rich
Alton Junction
I'm not fond of the tedium of cutting each window glazing, much less the fussy stuff about glueing without creep onto the open area.
I cut sheets of glazing to cover as many windows as I can. Instead of glue, I use Frost King double sided tape that comes with window insulation film. I leave the paper covering on each piece of tape, and then remove the paper one row of windows at a time. I'm careful to get tape snulgly under each window because the viewer's perspective is usually looking down on the structure, and a loose fit under the window will show more than elsewhere. The tape is extremely thin with a very strong hold. Leaving the paper cover on the tape avoids the glazing sheet sticking before I'm ready for that row of windows. I can cut glazing, apply tape, then peel & stick a wall with multiple windows in an hour or so with no glue mess. The tape rolls are usually sold separately near the window film in Hardware.
Thanks for the compliment MisterBeasley. Finding more and more uses for canopy cement, good stuff, will have to give it a try next time I'm attaching glazing.
thanks and regards, Peter
No, I don't think it matters much.
- Douglas
This is yet another technique I've picked up.
Instead of a flat sheet of acetate or styrene, I fill each pane of these windows with canopy cement. After it hardens, the "glass" is clear, but since the cement likes to climb the edges of panes and be thin in the middle, each pane forms a tiny lens. Thus, the windows will pass illuminating light, but you can't focus on anything inside the building. This lets you have plenty of light, but you don't need an interior for realism.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I usually use the window glass which comes with plastic structure kits, and often use left-over ones in scratchbuilt structures, too. I don't, however, have lighting in any structures and very few with interior details. Omitting the glass, in my opinion, makes most structures look abandonned.One way to suggest interior detail is to add window shades and/or curtains:
When I started scratchbuilding wood structures back in the '50s, acetate was about the only material available for windows. While it looked good initially, over time it yellowed. When I discovered styrene as an alternative scratchbuilding material, and clear styrene for windows, the sheet- and stripwood, along with the acetate, was tossed. Styrene can be made to represent just about any material (including looking more like wood than real wood), and the ability to use a single solvent-type of adhesive for all joints, including windows, makes it, for me, the best choice for kit building or scratchbuilding.
Wayne
I accually like the thick glass but then I paint the backs of most windows to reflect shades or blinds. then I go back and paint black so no light strays though, cheap way to get that lived in look in industrial areas with lots of windows.
Nuts! I knew I shouldn't have asked.
OK, OK, I will add the windows.
Thanks for the good advice guys.
Really nice work, HO-Velo.
IMO the reflection in the window glazing adds to the realism. I cut the individual panes from Evergreen .010 clear styrene and affix them to the frames with Testors clear parts cement. Though not the case in the pictured apartment building I use Tichy windows when possible as they come with pre-cut thin glazing and shades.
Regards, Peter
Rich,
I have been replacing most all of the styrene window glazing that come in kits, mainly because most all buildings I have, at least the first floor has an interior. In some cases, I have used real glass .005'' from Ngineering, but it only comes in two sizes...tuff to near impossible to cut. So where it will fit, like in Walthers Merchant row buildings, I'll use it. All other buildings I have been using Grafix Clear Craft Acetate in the .020'' size which is crystal clear and can be cut with scissors, to any size, length/width You want, to cover 5, 10 or a bunch of windows in a row. I also use the frosted white acetate in windows for a view block, lets light out but blocks view:
https://www.amazon.com/Clear-020-Craft-Plastic-Sheets/dp/B01A2U0PZW/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1475189424&sr=8-3-fkmr0&keywords=Grafixarts+Clear+Craft+Plastic
Easy to use, has a protective covering on both sides that You peel away.
I use the GS Hypo cement which is also crystal clear for adhesive.
Take Care!
Frank
For the City Classics windows, they have to be applied individually. In most of my structures, I have interior walls anyway, so I seldom have long strips of windows together. If I can, I'll do that with plain acetate, but usually I end up cutting my windows individually.
I like Canopy Cement for my windows. It dries clear anyway, and if I'm really fussy about a spot of overflow, it comes off easily with a toothpick without doing any damage.
A closer look at how the City Classics shades and blinds add to the windows. You can also see the difference in window clarity between the acetate windows on the second floor and the Walthers plastic windows on the ground floor.
Mister B, do you use a single large sheet where possible, or do you cut individual squares for each window?
I put "glass" in all my structures and cabeese. When viewed from an angle, the glazing is clearly there.
I don't like the thick plastic windows Walthers puts in their kits. I use thin acetate sheets instead. The thick plastic is cloudy. I do like to put interiors in my structures and the acetate shows them off much better.
This is a DPM "M T Arms" hotel. For the small windows, I used City Classics window shades and Venetian blinds, which add a lot to plain windows. Again, they are acetate, and come with the blinds and shades at different heights to give the building a "lived-in" look.
This may be the most tedious of tasks, but I think the "reflection" adds to the overall effect. In addition to blinds or shades, I add adverts (decals) if appropriate and from time to time just half a piece of transparent plastic to simulate an open window or two.
You can also have some "broken windows" in factories and such.
Either way, an interior black backing as recommended in WS kits removes the neccesity to fashion the interior to the enth degree; unless you are inclined to, or course.
One final; if you have all "black holes", an exterior wall lamp or nearby street lamp on your layout will accentuate that something is not right. Conversly, simple glazing and window coverings "reflect" ambient correctly in my opinion.
Dan
richhotrainYou almost cannot tell the "glass" windows are there.
Hi Rich
I will never be in competion with the guys, on this forum, that build fabulous interior detail in their buildings. I'm thinking of the pic I saw of the bar, with a window shot of some guy who had too much to drink, on his knees at the porcelin convenience.
That said, I am bothered by my cabeese that have no window glass. In my previous layout, I added window shades to eliminate the sameness of all the windows. I also had a interlocking tower with no glass. That will No more glassless structures or cabeese as I build my next layout.
To me it's not so much a pro vs con, it's a disagreement over your basic premise.
If you used an ampersand in your title, it might be the cause of the appearance.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Whenever I build a new structure, mostly Walthers, I always glue the plastic clear windows to the window frames. But, does it really matter? You almost cannot tell the "glass" windows are there.
Right now, I am building some tall brick buildings made out of Walthers Modulars. I am tempted to skip the glass.
Opinions, pro and con?