Previous layout I used N scale roadbed under sidings, to make them slightly lower than the mainline that used HO roadbed. Worked fine, you just need to use thin cardboard or similar to build a gradual ramp to match height, you can;t just drop down and expect cars and locos to stay on the rails and/or stay coupled with a sudden change.
Turnouts, same way you do them in HO cork. Run a continuous piece along the straight leg of the turnout, and along the inside of the curved route. Lay in the other side of the Straight leg, overlapping what's already in place, and cut to fit. Add the final piece for the curved leg, also overlapping, and cut to fit.
Unless you've been using those newfangled turnout pads - the above is how we used to do it before those came along. If you overlap and cut through both layers you get a very tight fit with almost no gap - but it doesn;t have to be perfect.
If you want to use the Homabed, there's another supplkier of the same material who does not seem to have the commucations problme the current and previous owners of California Roadbed have/had. Cascade Rail Supply is the name. I have not yet purchased from them, but I will likely be using the homasote roadbed on my next layout and that is where I plan to go. It took a year to get a sample pack from California Roadbed - I had completely forgotten I ordered it when one day I got a box and had no idea what it was until I opened it up.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
nscsx Well I have ordered the 30 degree branch line homabed from the website you're talking about. I have yet to receive an email concerning shipping and it's been almost a month. Im just preparing for the worst, incase I have to get my money back and go with cork
Well I have ordered the 30 degree branch line homabed from the website you're talking about. I have yet to receive an email concerning shipping and it's been almost a month. Im just preparing for the worst, incase I have to get my money back and go with cork
Wow, I'm sorry to hear that. I've ordered from him twice without any problem. Both times took longer than I would have prefered, but I believe it had more to do with the shipper.
Please keep us updated with your status.
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I have used N scale roadbed on the last 2 layouts. I did not put the beveled edges out, intending to to ballast it later. Crrently I use "branchline" Homabed for roadbed and theat is nominally 1/8" like the N scale cork.
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
nscsxI was thinking of Nscale for the height factor. It's a bit of a shortline. I am using standard HO 83
I'm using this:
http://cascaderailsupply.com/collections
He offers Homasote roadbed in a choice of 18" or 12" scale height and gives you a choice of a 30 or 45 degree bevel on the edge. He also makes turnout pads and height transitions.
One thing to consider is: where is the absolute "ground zero" of your modeled terrain? Sometimes realism dictates that it pays to think of these things in terms of the very bottom of the lowest ditch, and work your way up.
What I mean is this. Beneath the ties there is ballast, which has a profile, and beneath the ballast there is subroadbed which is wider and has its own profile. Both profiles contribute to drainage.
But culverts beneath the track are even lower, and culverts in turn empty into ditches which are lower still.
Give the two profiles of ballast + subroadbed a good case can be made for putting cork strip intended for N on top of cork strip intended for HO (or the even thicker O stuff which seems to be the full 1/4" that HO cork roadbed used to be). On my layout the cork roadbed is on top of either 1/2" homasote cut to shape, or 5/8" plywood cut to width. That way my culverts can empty into ditches the bottom of which is the top of my benchwork.
Also, since sidings are supposed to be lower than the main line, you need thinner cork for sidings to get that height difference, which is noticable. So consider either N on top of HO cork for the main, or two layers of N cork for the main, one layer for sidings.
Dave Nelson
Hey thanks Mlehman, I was thinking of Nscale for the height factor. It's a bit of a shortline. I am using standard HO 83
In HOn3, folks often use N cork. This allows the tie ends to stick out prominently and makes arranging the ballast much more flexible for looks different than a heavily ballasted main. Depending on your prototype, the N cork is practically a necessity to get the right look to the track.
For HO standard gauge, I'm not so sure how helpful this will be, given that N cork will leave a lot of tie sticking out. You'll likely use more ballast to get the look you want, even if it is exposed tie ends.
For a turnout, the easiest thing is to start a third piece in between the two halves as they diverge. You may need to do some extra trimming to get things to match, but cork is easy and quick to work with so shouldn't be much of an issue.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
Does anyone have any experience with using n scale cork roadbed with HO track? Would the width cause a proble?
How would you do a turnout?