Gluing Foam to Plywood

[Anonymous]

What is the best glue to use to attach 4x8 "blue board" foam to plywood? Also want to know how to "nail" track to the foam? Should I use liquid nails?
Thanks.

[eng22]

I used liqued nails for projects and foam board. I glued my foam to a framework of 1X4 cross members. Once everything was in place I weighted down and left it sit for 48 hours. Very solid result. As for track to foam, forget nails, they will not hold in foam. I used white glue. It should be noted that most of my track is on homabed. The only track I have on foam is for my spurs to several industries.

[Anonymous]

When I attached my foam to my layout, first I lightly sanded the foam to give the glue something more to hold on to. When I had cleaned the foam dust off, I used carpenters glue (the yellow stuff) and weighted it down with books. About attaching the track to the foam, if you use liquid nails, be sure it is safe on foam.
Reed

[tstage]

nscaler1280,

Welcome to the forum! [:)]

As mentioned above, white glue or wood glue should do the trick for you.

bnnnboy is correct. If you decide to go with the Liquid Nails, what you want is the LATEX version. The others variations contain solvents and will melt the foam. I've also read that other MRR's have used LATEX caulk and have gotten good results.

Hope that helps...

Tom

[jhugart]

FYI, I haven't tried this, but I work at 3M. In our employee store, there's a new product, a spray adhesive (78?) that is designed for use with the foam we love to use in model railroading.

If anyone tries it, please let me know.

[orsonroy]

I generally use wood glue for all my general-purpose layout construction adhesive needs. It holds as well as Liquid Nails and is a LOT cheaper. You also don't use as much.

I prefer using silicone caulk adhesive to glue down my track. It goes a LONG way (you only need a thin smear on the roadbed to hold down track, it dries clear and level, and it really helps deaden the drum effect of the foam. I used a tube and a half of the cheap Ace Hardware caulk to lay over 100 feet of track!

[orsonroy]

QUOTE: Originally posted by jhugart

FYI, I haven't tried this, but I work at 3M. In our employee store, there's a new product, a spray adhesive (78?) that is designed for use with the foam we love to use in model railroading.

If anyone tries it, please let me know.

I've tried using 3M 77 and 90 spray mount adhesive, as well as the DAP equivalent. My word of advice as someone who laid most of a mainline using the stuff:

DO NOT USE SPRAY MOUNT ADHESIVE FOR LAYING TRACK!!!!!

Spray mount is a low-tack spray-on rubber cement-like adhesive, used for mounting pictures (hence it's name). It will fail on you within a year. It also goes on bubbly, giving you an uneven tracklaying surface. ALSO, the bubbles generally don't go away, making ballasting and the overally appearance of your track look really bad.

If you work for 3M, try getting your hands on some of the double-sided tape used in the aircraft industry for laminating aircraft skin to the frames. The stuff is PERMANENT, but expensive.

[dickiee]

I just started glueing the pink foamboard to plywood down yesterday. I used yellow carpenters glue on a 4' by 4' section and Liquid Nails for Foam Projects on a 2' by 4' section and weighted down both sections. I also made a test piece 1' square. Plywood to foam to foam and used yellow glue next to the plywood and the Liquid Nails for Foam between the foam pieces. Today, after 24 hrs drying, I tried to pry the test section apart. The yellow glue next to the plywood section was pretty tight and broke the foam but the foam to foam section came apart fairly easily and the glue hadn't even begun to dry in the center. It probably will over much time, but I think I will use the yellow glue on the rest of the layout. The Liquid nails for Foam Projects states on the instructions that it is not for use on foam to foam. I would like to hear what is best for foam to foam?

[orsonroy]

QUOTE: Originally posted by dickiee
The Liquid nails for Foam Projects states on the instructions that it is not for use on foam to foam. I would like to hear what is best for foam to foam?

I generally use wood glue for this too. And virtually any adhesive WILL take a few days to dry in the center of a large sheet of foam. Remember, it's unsulation; it's not supposed to allow air to travel through it, which is what makes glue dry. It takes some time, but the two sheets will be (carefully) carveable after two days or so.

[Anonymous]

DAP also makes "Foam and Panel Adhesive" in standard caulk tube size, and near me it's only $1.99 per tube. It works well. I put down cork roadbed to the foam with cheap white latex caulk, and the same with the track to the cork. It holds well, dries fairly fast, and if necessary, it can be peeled up. The caulk idea also works well when you encounter a slight dip and need to level the surface.

[Anonymous]

orsonroy is correct about letting the Elmers dry between the foam for at least 2 days. I always let it dry for at least 3 or 4 days. If you need to take it apart later on it's a lot easier than using liquid nails or some other type of adhesive. I used liquid nails to attach the foam to a metal wall quite a few years ago & when the metal got hot the foam fell off. Some types of adhesives tend to melt foam. So, always do a test on whatever you are using for best results. I use latex paint on the foam for colors. It works the best, everything else melts it.

[Anonymous]

BTW, When I first start carving foam, I use a 4" grinder to do the rough stuff, then I use a Dremel tool to do the main carving. Like I always say "Be sure to wear a good dust mask or respirator & wear goggles".

[orsonroy]

I've used a wire wheel chucked into a power drill to do some scenery shaping on my foam, and it works great (it's what Hollywood uses when making sets). Unfortunately, you wind up with pink snow everywhere! It's definitely NOT recommended as an indoor activity!

[Anonymous]

I have glued Plywood to foam, Cork roadbed to foam, card stock and ceiling tiles, even track, all using Liquid nails for projects or the ace house brand. It all worked fine.The only problem is I am a bit messy and it takes a solvent (I use paint thinner) to remove it from hands, tools etc.[xx(]

[Anonymous]

Liquid nails, Liquid Nails, LIQUID NAILS. Its the overall best adhesive for everything.
Next best glue in my opinion is Elmers Pro-Bond. Glues everything and is super tough.