Trains.com

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Woodland Scenics foam trackbed to ??? for yards?

3146 views
16 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    August 2015
  • 371 posts
Woodland Scenics foam trackbed to ??? for yards?
Posted by fieryturbo on Wednesday, August 24, 2016 10:36 AM

So my HO mainline is run with 48 or so feet of Woodland Scenics track bed.  I have 2 yards that I need to provide about a 1x11 section of yard to apiece, and a small industrial spur that's about 1x6

Should I level all of it using WS' foam sheets, or use cork sheets, or what?

Julian

Modeling Pre-WP merger UP (1974-81)

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Dearborn Station
  • 24,281 posts
Posted by richhotrain on Wednesday, August 24, 2016 11:13 AM

I used to use the foam sheets in the yard while using the foam strips for the double mainline. But, then I decided to place my yards directly on the layout surface. So, now, I transition down from the mainline to the yard. That looks a lot more realistic and prototypical.

Rich

Alton Junction

  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: Shenandoah Valley The Home Of Patsy Cline
  • 1,842 posts
Posted by superbe on Wednesday, August 24, 2016 12:37 PM

It is really very simple. Just lay your yard track from the main without any roadbed and fill in any space between the yard or siding track and the layout top with ballast. The track is stout enought to support itself.

Bob

  • Member since
    August 2015
  • 371 posts
Posted by fieryturbo on Wednesday, August 31, 2016 8:12 AM

superbe

It is really very simple. Just lay your yard track from the main without any roadbed and fill in any space between the yard or siding track and the layout top with ballast. The track is stout enought to support itself.

Bob

 

An open gap, especially in my case since it's a crossover using 2 abutted turnouts, seems like it would be a problem spot.  Shouldn't I at least use a foam ramp or something to transition down from the roadbed?

Julian

Modeling Pre-WP merger UP (1974-81)

  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: Shenandoah Valley The Home Of Patsy Cline
  • 1,842 posts
Posted by superbe on Wednesday, August 31, 2016 9:10 AM

Several years ago I read on the forum about transitioning from the main line to a lower level without using a ramp. I tried it and it has worked for me with no problems. Of course there is a limit as to how long the transition can be without support. It would be a rare case for a transiton to be that long, however. Even then the support the support wouldn't have to be a ramp. I'll post a picture and a video to show what I was able to do.

This picture shows a transition to sidings without a ramp.

Here is a video showing a train running on the ramp before balasting. You will note that I did place a support on the outside rail of the long sweeping curve. This was to give the outside rail more elevation not for support.

Click on the picture to start video.

Try it and you will like it and good luck.

Bob

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    August 2015
  • 371 posts
Posted by fieryturbo on Wednesday, August 31, 2016 11:07 AM

it looks like your situation is a lot more gradual than mine.  I'm crossing over to a parallel track, two #6 turnouts in an N configuration, with a 1" sectional piece in between.  I'm worried about the parallel track not laying flat on one side.  What then?

Julian

Modeling Pre-WP merger UP (1974-81)

  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: Canada, eh?
  • 13,375 posts
Posted by doctorwayne on Wednesday, August 31, 2016 11:12 AM

I don't especially care for WS foam roadbed, and your situation is one of the reasons for that....I found it much easier to work with cork, and used coarse sandpaper and/or a Surform to make the transition to lower areas.

However, Bob's suggestion to use ballast, in much the same manner as the prototype, does work well and I'ver used it with both flextrack and rail-on-Central Valley tie strips.  If you're using turnouts as part of the downward transition, though, I'd suggest soldering the connections there to prevent flexing, at least until until the ballast is applied.

Wayne

  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: Shenandoah Valley The Home Of Patsy Cline
  • 1,842 posts
Posted by superbe on Wednesday, August 31, 2016 11:44 AM

fieryturbo

it looks like your situation is a lot more gradual than mine.  I'm crossing over to a parallel track, two #6 turnouts in an N configuration, with a 1" sectional piece in between.  I'm worried about the parallel track not laying flat on one side.  What then?

 

I don't quite understand what you are doing but is seems to be more than a simple tranistion.

When I did mine I simply laiid the flex track where I wanted it to see how it was going to work. You might try the same. Although flex track bends horizontally it is quite strong vertically.

Whatever you do I'm sure we would all like to know and see pictures.

Thanks,

Bob

 

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Bradford, Ontario
  • 15,797 posts
Posted by hon30critter on Wednesday, August 31, 2016 11:09 PM

Hi Bob:

I'm not getting the video when I click on either the picture or the link below it. I am getting a blank video screen with references to other projects of yours, but the transistion video isn't showing up. I gave it about 30 seconds but nothing happened.

Dave

I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Dearborn Station
  • 24,281 posts
Posted by richhotrain on Thursday, September 1, 2016 5:52 AM

hon30critter

Hi Bob:

I'm not getting the video when I click on either the picture or the link below it. I am getting a blank video screen with references to other projects of yours, but the transistion video isn't showing up. I gave it about 30 seconds but nothing happened.

Dave

 

Works for me.  Yes

Rich

Alton Junction

  • Member since
    August 2015
  • 371 posts
Posted by fieryturbo on Thursday, September 1, 2016 8:51 AM

I had to disable a whole bunch of popup blockers to make it work.  Photobucket is kind of a pain :/

Julian

Modeling Pre-WP merger UP (1974-81)

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Bradford, Ontario
  • 15,797 posts
Posted by hon30critter on Thursday, September 1, 2016 1:59 PM

The problem might be on my end because I do have Adblock Plus installed, although I have never had a problem seeing videos or photos before.

I'll try again with the Ad Block off.

Dave

I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!

  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Bedford, MA, USA
  • 21,483 posts
Posted by MisterBeasley on Thursday, September 1, 2016 2:03 PM

I use 3/8 inch foam board from a craft store for larger spaces like yards.  It's just about the same thickness as HO scale foam roadbed.  You can't bend it, of course, but it's easy to cut with a utility knife.  I go very light on the liquid when ballasting and I've never had any trouble with warping.

Since I've replaced all my old plastic wheels with metal, I'm very conscious of maintaining a flat and level transition from mains into yards to keep my rolling stock from being rolling-away stock.

It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse. 

  • Member since
    August 2015
  • 371 posts
Posted by fieryturbo on Friday, September 2, 2016 1:51 PM

MisterBeasley

I use 3/8 inch foam board from a craft store for larger spaces like yards.  It's just about the same thickness as HO scale foam roadbed.  You can't bend it, of course, but it's easy to cut with a utility knife.  I go very light on the liquid when ballasting and I've never had any trouble with warping.

Since I've replaced all my old plastic wheels with metal, I'm very conscious of maintaining a flat and level transition from mains into yards to keep my rolling stock from being rolling-away stock. 

I don't see how this would work.  WS foam roadbed is 3/16", 3/8" foam board is double that height.

Julian

Modeling Pre-WP merger UP (1974-81)

  • Member since
    August 2015
  • 371 posts
Posted by fieryturbo on Friday, September 2, 2016 1:52 PM

Adblock Plus was my problem as well.

Julian

Modeling Pre-WP merger UP (1974-81)

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Dearborn Station
  • 24,281 posts
Posted by richhotrain on Friday, September 2, 2016 2:03 PM

fieryturbo

 

 
MisterBeasley

I use 3/8 inch foam board from a craft store for larger spaces like yards.  It's just about the same thickness as HO scale foam roadbed.  You can't bend it, of course, but it's easy to cut with a utility knife.  I go very light on the liquid when ballasting and I've never had any trouble with warping.

Since I've replaced all my old plastic wheels with metal, I'm very conscious of maintaining a flat and level transition from mains into yards to keep my rolling stock from being rolling-away stock. 

 

 

I don't see how this would work.  WS foam roadbed is 3/16", 3/8" foam board is double that height.

 

Woodland Scenics foam is 5mm thick in HO scale and 3mm thick in N scale.

Rich

Alton Junction

  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Bedford, MA, USA
  • 21,483 posts
Posted by MisterBeasley on Saturday, September 3, 2016 12:51 PM

fieryturbo
I don't see how this would work. WS foam roadbed is 3/16", 3/8" foam board is double that height.

You're right.  The foam board is 3/16, not 3/8.  Sorry for the confusion.

It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse. 

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Users Online

Search the Community

ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
Model Railroader Newsletter See all
Sign up for our FREE e-newsletter and get model railroad news in your inbox!