You want 60-40 Tin Lead solder, sold for electrical and electronic work. Avoid the 50-50 stuff, its only good for plumbing. Rosin core is OK, solid is OK. The rosin core will yield good solder joints without flux on clean metal. You will need flux on metal that is less than clean and bright. Always use rosin flux. Acid flux is only for plumbing. Avoid "lead free solder". The joints are weaker, it is less electrically conductive, and it's harder to get a good joint. Pretty much all sizes of solder work OK. It's easier to apply just the right amount of solder to a joint using the finer sizes, but you can get the job done with solder as thick as 1/8 inch.
For good solder joints, clean the metal until it is bright and shiny. Make sure the joint fits well. Apply rosin flux. Heat the work, not the solder. When the work is hot, touch the solder to the work and it shall melt readily and capillary action shall suck the molten solder deep into the joint. Don't allow the joint to move until the solder has hardened. If the solder doesn't melt and flow, the joint isn't hot enough or clean enough, (or both).
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
Hornblower,
I have been using Solder-it, silver bearing paste solder for about two yrs. now and prefer it over the Tix. For one, it is a lot easier to use and eliminates the need for a third hand....there's no need to hold the solder and iron....leaving one hand free to either hold a part etc. It's very strong and has excellent electrical conductivity. I have been getting mine from Hobbylinc, which is cheaper than Micro-Mark. I do a lot of scratch building with brass, copper and stainless and it will do a great, strong job on all of it:
http://www.micromark.com/silver-bearing-solder-71-grams,7165.html
I built a working sliding chain link fence gate and all the chain link fence parts out of brass using that solder and it is extremely strong...the whole fence was made to be removable and it is...I have already removed it 5 times and nothing came loose...My Grandkids, love sliding the gate back and forth, so it also gets a work out...nothing broke yet! Still working on the whole area...so that is why I made everything removeable.
Take Care!
Frank
hornblowerI was also thinking of silver solder although the melting point is much higher than that of the Tix solder which made me think the Tix would work better for trackwork.
Higher melting point solder isn't too tricky to deal with provided it is small diameter. Quick in and out and things other than what you're soldering don't have time to get excited about it.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
I never tried Tix but have tried a few other brands. Then I went back to Kester products.
riogrande5761I have and used Tix liquid flux for, gosh, nearly 30 years.
You say you have used and like Tix flux but do you have any experience with the Tix solder itself?
Hornblower
I have and used Tix liquid flux for, gosh, nearly 30 years. I recommend it highly. If you include the following elements, soldering will be more of a pleasure than a frustration:
Clean and tinned soldering iron tip.
Clean bare wire or metal that is being soldered.
Apply flux to the area being soldered.
A decent hot iron.
Rosin core solder.
Good light helps too. I also attach heat sinks to surfaces just outside of the area being soldered; it helps draw heat away from things that might melt easily like wire insulation or railroad ties on rail being soldered.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
Thanks Mike. I was also thinking of silver solder although the melting point is much higher than that of the Tix solder which made me think the Tix would work better for trackwork. I guess I could buy both and see which works better.
Good point and one to consider anytime you're working on track, whether for a feeder or the trackwork itself.
I haven't used Tix, but it has a good rep. The key is picking a solder for strength. When I want a good mechnically certain joint made, which is for many of the apps solder is used for in model railroading, I use silver-bearing solder. No, it's not for "bearings" as this means it simply contains solder as part of the alloy. It's cost is very modestly more than standard solders.
Typically, I use Radio Shack # 64-013, but others may be available (hard to tell with RS these days) that are also suitable. This stuff is 62/36/2, rosin core, and it's .022" diameter. You don't absolutely need it for feeders, but I rarely pull one loose despite my ham-fisted ways at times. For trackwork itself, I highly recommend it. If Tix has a similar proportion alloy silver solder (with the 64-013, the 2 is for the 2% silver in it, so doesn't need much to work well), go with it and you'll likely be very happy with its strength.
I have been having a problem with the point rails of my hand built turnouts popping loose from time to time. I have been thinking about buying some of the Tix brand solder from Micro Mark as it is supposed to be incredibly strong solder. Anyone have any experience with this solder and is it actually stronger?
There is lead free solder, it is required for many things, for plumbing, these days, and most electronics that want to be certified green.
For ewe and me, Use solder that has lead in it. The unleaded is not so good for electronics.
WATCH THE FLUX: No Acid Flux.
DANGER : ALWAYS LOOK AT THE SOLDERING IRON *BEFORE* PICKING IT UP.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
I also use soldering flux as it eases the flow of solder onto wires, rails, etc. I used alligator clips next to the rail joints (which I soldered) as heat sinks to avoid plastic tie melting. And wiped the joints with a bit of alcohol after soldering to clean things up.
https://www.radioshack.com/products/rosin-soldering-paste-flux?variant=5717831621
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
The very best solder for electronic work is 63-37 tin-lead, which has the lowest melting point of all the tin-lead solders. 60-40 solder is readily available, and is suitable for most model railroad soldering purposes. 50-50 plumbers' solder has a higher melting point, usually used for joints heated with a torch.
For most model railroad purposes, the smallest diameter rosin-core solder is the easiest to use. I always add a tiny dab of rosin paste flux, since the core flux is frequently too little, too late. Do NOT use acid flux unless you can dip the entire assembly in a neutralizing (baking soda) solution after soldering.
For more advanced soldering, there are tricks like using 50-50 for early joints, 60-40 for later joints and 63-37 for final joints - very useful for assembling a brass locomotive from sheet, wire and small castings. There are also situations where paste solders are more useful then wire solder - you don't have to hold the solder while positioning detail parts, part in tweezers in one hand, soldering tool in the other.
A useful trick for all kinds of soldering - pre-tin the things to be soldered. A pre-tinned drop wire and a little solder on the rail will cooperate in joining up.
And then there are resistance soldering, silver-bearing solders, brazing and welding. 99-plus percent of model railroaders don't really need to go there. The other fraction already know how.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with lots of solder joints)
What is the best and the size solder I should use for attaching wire and joining track on my HO scale code 100 layout. I am confused at the different types of solder, do I use resin core or another type. I am new at this so a simple answer, if possible would be appreciated.
Sorry I just realised I should have posted this in the electronics forum